Before You Die: Baghdad by Andrew Mueller

Baghdad, Iraq. The Iraqi capital, isolated by a decade of western sanctions, is well worth the 11-hour, pedal-to-the-metal hurtle along the highway from Amman and the rapacious attentions of the Iraqi border guards. To the eternal credit of the Iraqi people, they refuse to blame western visitors for the absurd, murderous policies of western governments, and treat those who make the trip with extraordinary generosity and kindness. The markets on and around Rashid Street are one of the world’s great bargain basements, for everything from beautiful antiques to bespoke suits and Saddam Hussein watches.