A Wild One by Devanshi Mody
Featured Hotel in Ranthambhore Nature Reserve
Aman-i-Khas
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Once teeming with tigers, Ranthambhore was the pleasure pasture of the maharajahs during an era of Indian royalty when princes seem to have done little else besides embarking upon shikaars. Some surviving princes reminisce fondly about hunts and machchans (tree top tents in which princes would wait for the kill), whilst others regret “shooting only sixty tigers.” The sort of statement that would get you shot today, not least because hunting in banned in India, but, more urgently, because India’s tiger population is dwindling at an alarming rate. Ranthambhore today has about thirty tigers.
Tigers continue disappearing because some princes continue hunting, clandestinely, with the connivance of deferential local authorities - though admittedly, such cases are few and far between. The princes, nevertheless, assume no responsibility for the near extinction of the tiger due to excessive past times. They insist that when princes indulged in shikaars, tigers still roamed the forest, and their current scarcity is due entirely to the government’s negligence and deforestation.
Either way, a far greater threat to the tiger is widespread and, alas, systematic poaching. One would say that bundled tiger skins and heaps of tiger bones are discovered on a regular basis - if there were that many tigers to do away with. However, poachers seem to be succeeding at getting rid of remaining tigers with ruthlessly reckless rapidity.
If you’re visiting Ranthambhore for a tiger safari then there is only one place to stay: The Oberoi Vanyavillas. The Oberoi has been voted the world’s best hotel chain by the international community. Their Vanya Villas have, for a second year running, been declared “India’s Best Hotel” by an independent New York-based company (which reviews hotels anonymously).
I recall being at the hotel when the news came in, and the enthusiastic young general manager immediately called the Oberoi Group’s Chairman Mr PRS Oberoi to felicitate, “Sir, we’ve done it again!” Apparently, Mr Oberoi replied, “We have gone down 0.002% since last year. Find out why.” There’s Oberoi perfection for you!
And this property is perfection personified, with ultra luxury tents set in landscaped gardens studded with lily ponds and languid pools. The boutique hotel attracts those who come to safari at the Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve, but jungle love can rage on in the twenty five luxury tents – they’re superbly decorated with a tiger theme and equipped with the sexiest of bathrooms: think stand-alone baths et al.
The accommodation is so ravishing you almost don’t want to wake up for that 6.00am safari. But if you have requested a wakeup call, then the Oberoi infallibly gives you one. You’ll wake up to freshly baked cookies – an incentive enough to get out of bed!
Swaddled in several woollen blankets, I was bundled off in a safari jeep with a guide who was good at what he did, but slightly too fond of himself. The Ranthambhore Park is a heavenly expanse of vibrant flora and romantically rugged hills - a visual treat which is a reward in itself and justifies the visit, even if you don’t spot a tiger (many don’t). “Wild life is always a gamble,” goes the saying.
However, my guide was determined that I should see a tiger - his prowess in wildlife spotting remained unrivalled on my safari experience. Apart from the wide variety of flora and fauna he introduced me to; crucially, at the end of the 2-hour safari, when I had almost abandoned hope, he guilefully led me to a tiger.
Standing in our path, the tiger stared us in the face. But we were obviously more enchanted by the noble beast than it was with us, for at the end of five minutes, bored, it turned around and walked away casually. We followed it and found ourselves before its mother and sister. To spot one tiger is madly lucky. But to see three in one morning is just plain insane!
I returned to the hotel in a fantastic mood. Of course, I was slightly disappointed that the general manager said that as I had struck gold (“lady luck”), I should cancel the afternoon safari and devote instead my time to visiting Ranthambhore’s forts and temples, which are imbued in centuries of colourful history.
I briefly visited the rustic chic Aman-i-Khas hotel, which was recently infiltrated with tigers, as the ex pat general manager boasted (yes, boasted!) while he proudly directed me to their in-house swamp (home to two fat crocodiles). With wildlife at large within the property, its appeal depends on your sense of adventure.
Never mind that I didn’t do another safari - I didn’t regret my afternoon. I was accompanied by the most gentlemanly of guides who ensured I saw everything possible in the limited time available, but advised that I would have to return if I wanted to do full justice Ranthambhore.
I certainly will if the Oberoi continues serving the best breakfasts in the universe (no exaggeration). The wonderful Indian platter is a killer, comprising the most gorgeous masala dosa, dainty uthapams, stuffed parathas and poori bhajis. Of course, I protested I could not possibly eat so much - naturally. But I did. Naturally. And I proceeded to have three courses for lunch and then for dinner too. I cannot think of a hotel where I have enjoyed the food more (it’s served in a central courtyard where local musicians serenade you under the stars). The chef’s Indian desert platter and homemade ice creams are particularly memorable.
The general manager explains that guests are often depressed if they haven’t spotted a tiger, and therefore the hotel makes a special effort to compensate with the food. The next morning I want to repeat my breakfast order, but the chef suggests I try his Continental bread basket. I am dismissive: they simply couldn’t get croissants right in India. But the young chef implores, and I am presented the only croissants I have found worth eating outside France.
Ensure your spa appointment doesn’t catch you between two heavy meals, as the spa is a delicious experience in itself. Set on the lily pond, it is accessed by a pool set ablaze by marigold petals. Try the all-natural Oberoi facial, which the Banyan Tree’s Balinese therapists perform to order.
The Oberoi Vanya Villas is more than just luxury accommodation for safari enthusiasts - it is a destination resort. Mick Jagger sojourned here recently with his family (including Jade Jagger), whilst Mukesh Ambani, one of the world’s richest men, has come to relax at the hotel every year since its inception. Businessmen have held conferences in the beautiful living rooms overlooking lily ponds, and clinked glasses over successful deals in the lovely library (which has a striking electric blue and silver tree of life mural). But nothing beats the dinners organised for romantics. The options include picnics in picturesque spots of the burgeoning gardens, and sumptuous suppers on a manmade lake set up Maharaja-style, with serenading musicians.
If you are not already in love, the Oberoi Vanyavillas will solve the problem. After my first meal at the resort, I left the manager a note saying “I think I’m just going to have kidnap your chef...” Love at first bite, indeed!