Why Go to Venice? by Jamie Dunford Wood
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You either love it or you hate it, but it’s a must see because there’s nowhere else like Venice. You love it for the romanticism, the sense of walking in history, and the photographs you’ll get. As Truman Capote once said, it’s like eating whole box of chocolate liquers in one go. You hate it for the crowds, those bloody pigeons, the mediocre food (but not always), the rip off cappuccino’s on the Piazza San Marco, the sulky gondolier and the day you got lost.
DH Lawrence was right - it’s slimy, slippery, and the canals stink in the heat. Still, for all that it’s an experience. Go if you get the chance. Preferably slightly off season.
Venice in Brief
Come for:
- Titian, Veronese, Bellini and the other old masters; the entire experience of the place
For the most concentrated experience:
- Cappuccino at one of the grand cafes in the ‘drawing room of Europe’, the Piazza San Marco. Yes, they cost a fortune, but where else can you listen to an orchestra in these surroundings?
- Sorry – a gondola ride. This is definitely a rip off, but you have to do it. Best at night with no wind. Insist on seeing the Grand Canal. And listen to the way they speak
- Dinner or lunch beside the Grand Canal
- A martini in the roof bar of the Danieli, with views of the lagoon
- A bellini in Harry’s Bar
- A boat trip to Torcello or Burano or both
- Wandering and getting lost. You’ll soon get off the narrow beaten track
- A truly fine set of frescoes – somewhere, anywhere, look at your guidebook
- The basilica of San Marco – truly astonishing. Get there early, be first in the line
Watch out for:
- Bare shoulders & shorts - some churches are strict
- The line at San Marco’s: big beyond reason
- Expensive glass factories, and being offered a ‘free boat trip’ to view one
Recommended Places to Stay
Unfortunately, Venice has a (not altogether undeserved) reputation for rooms that are a bit of a rip-off. We're talking those grand palazzos, where affordable quarters for us mere mortals means a poky shoebox with canal-stink wafting through the window. Thankfully, these horror stories are not the whole picture; there are plenty of amazing places to stay if you know where to look for them:
- Best value: Ca'Pozzo Inn is a small and tranquil boutique tucked away in the Jewish Quarter, with rates available under GBP 100
- Best for young families: Hotel Europa & Regina offers interconnecting rooms, a children's menu and gifts at check-in
- Best fashion-forward: Fourteen opulent suites make up Ca Maria Adele, a sleek design hotel near St Mark's Square
- Best for aristocrats: Bauer Il Palazzo epitomises understated grandeur, with Grand Canal views and a private boat dock
- Best apartments: A slice of bohemia in Venice, Ca Della Corte is a family-run hotel offering self-contained apartments: a great choice for families
Or see all our luxury hotels in Venice.