Where to Go In... Portugal by Paul Rouse
Featured Hotel in Lisbon
Pestana Palace Hotel & National Monument
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1. The Lisbon Coast
See and be seen in Lisbon’s sophisticated seaside suburbs. Estoril has a motor racing track, an international film festival and Europe’s largest casino, whilst laid-back Cascais sits on an expanse of pristine sand washed by Atlantic breakers: if you’ve never been horse riding, this is the place to get hooked. Spoil yourself at the Fortaleza do Guincho Hotel, a converted 17th-century fortress perched high on the rocks above the sea, or soar above the clouds in an Air Nimbus light aircraft - and come back down to earth again by pitting your wits against their flight simulator.
Favourite place: Lose yourself wandering among the Pythonesque castles of Sintra - surely designed by Terry Gilliam on acid!
Hidden secret: Sunday morning kite flying on Guincho beach. Exhilarating.
Nearest airport: Lisbon
2. Albufeira
Want winter sun with a touch of luxury? If you think the Algarve is all only for golfers and beaches, or that Albufeira is just a package-tour resort, think again. How about designer hotels, sexy spas and chic eateries, at prices that don’t mean you have have to cancel Christmas? Try the only two-Michelin star restaurant and hotel in Portugal at Vila Joya, luxury boat/yacht charter for a group of friends courtesy of Vila Vita Parc, or Suites Alba, an exclusive all-suite hotel owned by soccer legend Luis Figo, where footballers’ wives are barred if only on grounds of taste.
Favourite place: Crashing waves, white sangria and fresh squid at Evaristo beach restaurant.
Hidden secret: The Ayurvedic spa at Vila Joya: massage with an ocean view.
Nearest airport: Faro
3. Alentejo
The heartland of Portugal, it’s hard to believe this region of medieval hilltop castles, fortressed villages and UNESCO heritage cities is in the same century as the rest of the country, let alone a couple of hours from Lisbon. The delights of Portalegre, Elvas, Marvao and Vila Vicosa await you. Evora is even closer: soak up the atmosphere of this perfectly preserved walled city with its Renaissance architecture, warren of back streets and tucked-away restaurants serving delicious home-cooked fare. It’s almost impossible to choose a bad one. Then get thee to a nunnery - the 15th-century Convento do Espinheiro, converted into an exquisite hotel and spa.
Favourite place: Do the time-warp in Vila Vicosa, royal seat of the dukes of Braganca since the 15th-century. It hasn’t changed.
Hidden secret: The untouched Serra de Sao Marmede national park. Here be dragons.
Nearest airports: Lisbon/Faro
4. Obidos
Chocolate-box pretty, it is fitting that this walled hilltop medieval town less than an hour north of Lisbon hosts an annual festival dedicated to everybody’s favourite confectionery: the Chocolate Festiva runs every spring. With quaint streets, an imposing castle, a pousada to stay in and desserts to die for at restaurants like Casa das Senhora Rainhas, Obidos is an ideal base for exploring the upcoming Silver Coast region: take a boat to the Berlenga islands, tour the Sanguinhal vineyards in Bombarral, play golf at Praia D’El Rey or Campo Real, or soak up some culture in Alcobaca, Batalha or the religious shrine of Fatima. You’ll be converted.
Favourite place: Flaming sausages and ginja - the famous local cherry liqueur - at Ibn Errik Rex in Obidos.
Hidden secret: Caldas da Rainha’s daily outdoor farmers’ market: tantalising aromas, mouth-watering local produce and not an EU regulation shape in sight.
Nearest airport: Lisbon
5. Western Algarve
Discover the new Cornwall before anybody else does. Lagos has a modern marina, although its main charm is its unspoilt character and lovingly preserved 18th-century buildings. Sagres has a picture-postcard harbour and a trendy new hotel, the Memmo Baleeira; Vila do Bospo offers spectacularly dramatic Atlantic views, whilst Cabo de Sao Vincente really does feel like the end of the world, as the Romans thought. Turn the corner and you are into the surfers’ paradise of the Costa Vicentina and some spectacular beaches. We’re just waiting for Rick Stein to move in.
Favourite place: Wrap up and walk for miles on any of the immense beaches that seem to go on forever.
Hidden secret: Taberna da Mare in Portimao - the best restaurant you’ve never heard of. Yet.
Nearest airport: Faro
Planning a perfect Portuguese trip? Check out our stunning selection of luxury hotels in Portugal.