Where to Go In... Andalucia by Paul Rouse
Featured Hotel in Seville
Corral del Rey
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1. Cordoba
The medieval Jewish quarter feels like a Shakespearian film set: a maze of cobbled backstreets, shops, restaurants, tapas bars and hidden courtyards. Step back in time and have it all to yourself on a Sunday evening - when the locals stay home. Chill out at the seriously stylish Hospes Palacio del Bailio, with its own Roman baths, and stock up on every olive oil under the Andalucian sun at Bodegas Mezquita’s superb deli.
Favourite place: La Mezquita, the unique 8th-century mosque - a forest of pillars, it also happens to have a glorious Renaissance cathedral inside it. Why don’t they hold the Middle East peace talks here?
Hidden secret: Sit cross-legged on soft leather cushions, listen to live guitar music and sip scented infusions at Salon de Te, an authentic Arabic tea room.
Nearest airport: Malaga
2. Seville
For foodies, culture vultures, hedonists and night owls, Seville has its own time zone: a long lunch that finishes at 4pm, followed by a long dinner that winds up around midnight - and a tapas cruise around Santa Cruz in between. Top tips? Casa de la Memoria for flamenco as it should be: passionate, vibrant and sexy, in a courtyard under the stars. Negotiate a price for a personalised personalised horse-drawn carriage tour of the sights; head to Calle Sierpes and shop, shop, shop. Then hit Casa Robles for a late lunch. The diet can wait.
Favourite place: Hacienda Benazuza: Ferran Adria’s protégé Rafa Morales comes of age with two Michelin stars of his own at this 10th-century Arabic farmhouse-turned hotel. The 26-course tasting menu will challenge the senses and stretch the waistline as much as the wallet - but you’ll be dining out on it for years.
Hidden secret: Tuck in with the locals at one of the many top-class Seville tapas bars. Don’t bother with the menu - just point and learn the Spanish for “I’ll have one of those, please.”
Nearest airport: Seville
3. Granada
Living history, cutting edge hospitality and skiing in the Sierra Nevada, all within sight of the Alhambra, the city’s must-see-before-you-die palace. Granada bristles with energy, a thirtysomething city of designer stores, cool bars, Arabic souks and hip historic hotels: check out the Palacio de los Patos, a restored 19th-century mansion, or the Palacio de Santa Paula, built around medieval cloisters and one of the finest places to stay in Granada. Ding-dong.
Favourite place: The Generalife gardens on a crisp winter morning. Air doesn’t come any fresher.
Hidden secret: Fancy bumping into Antonio Banderas? Dressed as a Moorish ruler? Melanie Griffiths’ better-looking other half has just got permission to film his cherished historical epic about the re-conquest of Spain inside the walls of the Alhambra.
Nearest airport: Granada
4. Cadiz
There’s a good reason why Cadiz doubled for Havana in the Bond movie Die Another Day. Be shaken and stirred by Europe’s oldest inhabited city, an historic port with a pre-medieval quarter justly famous for its picturesque and slightly faded charm. Cadiz is where Andalucia meets the Caribbean, with a touch of colonial South America thrown in, and its colourful and exuberant Carnival every February is Rio without the rip-off. The city is still waiting for its first restored boutique-style hotel (but watch this space) so head out to the Melia Sancti Petri for five-star pampering amid the sand dunes of the wild and windswept Costa de la Luz - and remember to pack the golf clubs.
Favourite place: The warren of streets around the cathedral leading up to Christmas - bargains galore yet tinsel-free.
Hidden secret: The astonishing all-round views from the Torre Tavira camera obscura.
Nearest airports: Seville/Jerez
5. Jerez de la Frontera
For a combination of supreme skill and unabashed spectacle, it would be hard to beat the renowned Royal Andalucian School of Equestrian Art, horse lover or not. The Spanish Riding School takes some beating, horse lover or not. Book the best seats in the house (front row, face-on to the arena) for the hour-long show featuring individual riders, formation teams and carriages, and take a backstage tour to the stables and museum for a fascinating behind-the-scenes glimpse. And if all that sawdust makes you thirsty, visit Gonzalez Byass and impress your party guests with your knowledge of the finer points of fino, manzanilla, amontillado and oloroso. Your granny’s sherry was never like this.
Favourite place: Check in your principles at the door and visit the Bullfight Museum for a unique cultural insight into Andalucian life.
Hidden secret: The amazing Museum of Time & Mystery - clock-watching just got interesting.
Nearest airport: Jerez
Heading off to the south of Spain? Check out our collection of luxury hotels in Andalucia. Or see all our luxury hotels in Spain. Alternatively, find further inspiration in our partner site's Andalucia travel guide.