What's Doing in Dubai by Cynthia Rosenfeld
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The most liberal of the seven United Arab Emirates, Dubai was a pearl fishing village and gold smugglers outpost until 1966 when locals struck oil, literally, in the desert sand. Over the last ten years, Dubai’s relatively progressive leader Sheikh Mohammad bin Rashid al-Maktoum has been on a building binge, eager to expand Dubai’s economy beyond oil to construction, shipping and of course tourism. Global nomads are overcoming the heat in swanky hotel rooms, sunbathing on waterfront resorts and keeping cool inside some of the world’s biggest shopping malls.
Deciding where to spend your Arabian Nights is a visitor’s first daunting task. For between $6 million and $37 million you can have your own piece of The World, a collection of 300 reclaimed islands just off the coast in the Persian Gulf. Saudi Arabia, St Petersburg and Chad are among the isles still available but more tropical namesakes such as Australia are already spoken for. If an entire island is out of your budget, perhaps one of Dubai’s sky high glittering hotel towers will better suit your style. The first hotel to proclaim itself a six star, the 202-suite Burj al Arab , billows like a sail on yet another manmade island in the Gulf. The world’s tallest hotel when it opened in 1999, at a still staggering 1,060 feet, drew international attention for equally soaring room rates, some as high as $15,000 per night.
Guests take a private submarine to the hotel’s underwater restaurant Al Mahara complete with shark-filled aquarium then ride some of the world’s fastest elevators back to rooms generously decorated with gold leaf, marble, granite and crystal. Private butlers are on call, bath amenities are from Hermes and there are 13 choices on the pillow menu to ensure the most comfortable slumber. In addition to Burj al Arab, Jumeirah manages a number of other stunning addresses around Dubai, including Madinat Jumeirah.
Dubbed “Venice of the Desert,” for its meandering waterways that transport guests between two boutique hotels, a traditional style souk, spa, a conference center and the expansive health club, this opulent family resort was designed to resemble an ancient Arabian citadel but its luxuries are entirely modern. The three resorts that comprise One&Only Royal Mirage on Jumeira Beach are also inspired by classic Arab architecture. The most intimate among the three, the Residence & Spa keeps things cozy with 50 contemporary style suites plus a private dinning room and bar for the exclusive use of Residence guests, and priority access to the in house Givenchy Spa and Oriental Hammam.
Golfers and fans of understated, modern Middle Eastern design should gravitate to the Park Hyatt Dubai a waterfront resort adjacent to the Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht Club yet only a few minutes drive from Dubai’s business district for those who want to combine work and play. Moorish motifs and calming pastel hues take the edge off Dubai’s notorious temperatures, as do the deep soak pod style bathtubs. Thai chefs keep dishes authentic in the Thai Kitchen while Europeans do the same at Traiteur, a bi-level eatery oriented around a show kitchen that features the chefs as if on stage. In the Amara Spa, go native with a Rose of Arabia massage that integrates organic rose balm and oils to nourish skin and relaxes the senses.
While gilding and flash can be found in abundance at any of the above swanky addresses, some travelers may prefer something considerably more low key like La Maison d’Hotes. The tranquil 20 guestroom inn is steps from Jumeirah Beach with an air of French chateau despite the small scale. Each guestroom has its own character, inspired the European owners’ travels to Afghanistan, Oman, Pakistan and Sri Lanka. Two pools, conference facilities and a romantic French bistro round out the amenities.
Art lovers and those who want to save their funds for Dubai’s famous shopping options (see below) should check out XVA Art Hotel. These six designer-decorated rooms housed in the architectural splendor of a 100-year old Dubai house in the pedestrian area of Bastakiya are each unique, conceived by a select group Arab designers and artists who blend contemporary designs of modern Arabia with vintage Bedouin patterns. Next door, XVA Gallery hosts international events such as the 10th anniversary of the Fendi iconic baguette handbag and the annual first Creek Contemporary Art Fair.
Arabian nights give way to sweltering hot days so it is no wonder all of Dubai’s best shopping address are nestled inside some of the world’s biggest malls. The most fashionable brands can be found along Jumeirah Emirates Towers Boulevard, not a street at all but an indoor air-conditioned mall, where style mavens with high credit limit flock straight to Villa Moda. The Jeans Bar alone features over 100 labels. Load up on lacy Cosabella lingerie then layer on the brands from Anya Hindmarch to Valentino.
Across the way, Ounass means ‘people’ in Arabic, yet the 60 plus fashion and accessory labels are anything but pedestrian. Check out the latest here from Catherine Malandrino, Rock & Republic and Jenny Packham. Move along to Mall of the Emirates to keep cool while continuing to load up on fashion’s latest brands, including Arab designers like those at Aizone. The largest shopping center outside the continental United States boasts 450 shops including London’s Harvey Nichols plus movie theaters and Ski Dubai the world’s largest indoor artificial ski slope, kept at a steady chill of -2°C. There are five separate slopes including a black run for the serious ski bunnies and a snowboard stunt park for those who want to learn the latest moves.
When the sun sets and temperatures drop slightly, emerge from the malls to explore old Dubai. Walk around the old Bastakiya district, a small and fairytale like enclave with architecturally unique structures called ‘wind-tower houses.’ Stop in for afternoon tea at Basta Art Café with its private courtyard cooled by overhanging trees before collecting some funky kaftans and other Arab inspired accessories at FAE across from XVA Art Hotel.
From here its not far to the Old Souk that has certainly seen better days but its still worth a wander if only to replace those tattered soles at Aladdin Shoes , the Dubai address for sequined slippers worthy of a genie. Only those with super human bargaining skills and the endurance of Olympic athletes will find their heart’s content at the Gold Souk but the fragrant aromas that permeate the Spice Souk will put most anyone into a gourmet trance. Both are open late and located in the Deira area of Dubai, though the Gold Souk feels like nothing more than a strip mall crammed with bling while the Spice Souk’s single narrow alleyway is no more than a fleeting glimpse of old Dubai.
If the scents of the Spice Souk cause stomachs to rumble, head to Al Nafoorah for succulent Lebanese kebabs that are a favorite of local chefs and serious foodies alike. Vegetarians are attended to at Magnolia while romantically inclined travelers should climb aboard a Bateaux Dubai for candlelit dining along Dubai Creek. Before the trip ends, set one night aside to venture outside Dubai for an open air, desert dinner at Al Hadheerah. Book ahead for a booth or tent, both are optimal spots to watch the belly dancers sway under the stars.