A Weekend in Deal by Stephen Emms
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“Some visitors say it’s like stepping back in time,” says Ralph Cades, owner of the Greencades boutique on the High Street. “Other seaside towns are a bit kiss-me-quick, but Deal is charm without the cheap thrills. It’s understated.”
The reason why is that Deal never developed into a resort, instead remaining a working seaside town, and so whilst nearby Dover and Ramsgate languished after the 1970s stampede of the package holiday, Deal quietly prospered.
Understated is, however, the word: a weekend here will most likely comprise a stroll in the winding streets of the Georgian old town, a blustery seafront promenade past the painted fishing boats on the shingle to the castles, and dinner at a foodie restaurant. Further afield, Dover Castle is just a few miles away, and there are championship golf courses north towards Sandwich, as well as rare wildfowl and flora at the internationally-renowned Pegwell Bay Nature Reserve.
Deal’s long, flat coastline has defined its history, making it vulnerable to every invader from Julius Caesar, who arrived in 55BC (check out the memorial on the promenade towards Walmer) to Napoleon. Its significance in the sixteenth century as the busiest port in England resulted in the building of three castles – Sandown (now a ruin), Deal and Walmer – but by the 18th Century, thanks to its smuggling trade, the town had gained a lawless reputation: diarist Samuel Pepys called it “pitiful”, whilst Daniel Defoe talked of its “barbarous hated name.”
So why is Deal now bustling with organic delis, restaurants and antique shops? The clue lies in the conservation area of 18th-century fishermen’s cottages just behind the seafront. Nearly demolished in the 1960s, the crumbling dwellings were bought up (often by “theatrical London types”, according to local estate agents Bright & Bright) and refurbished – and independent shops, eateries and galleries followed suit.
Now this highly picturesque quarter is the most enjoyable way to spend an hour upon arrival. And don’t forget to scour the many blue plaques which are testament to the town’s bohemian history – an author here, a painter there – especially that of Carry On actor Charles Hawtrey (who had a penchant for sailors, booze and setting fire to his bed, often in that order).
Deal’s colourful past and regenerated future seems to converge on its pleasure pier, the only one of its kind built in the UK since 1945. Opened in 1957 by Prince Phillip – after the first two fell victim to bad weather and war damage respectively – it offers stunning views of the town’s eclectic architecture, including the Royal Hotel, the only remaining building on the shingle beach, and the four-storey Timeball Tower, originally a semaphore tower erected in 1796. Much-discussed restoration plans finally came into fruition in mid-2008, when the end of the pier was redeveloped into a state-of-the-art glass café and venue.
Regeneration has quickened its pace in the last few years, with a piazza on the seafront facilitating alfresco drinking and dining, as well as new cafes, restaurants and shops in the old town. A recent opening is stylish boutique B’n’B, Number One, an elegant Victorian semi-detached townhouse near the seafront, in an area that looks likely to be the next hot spot.
Owners Paul and Neil spent five months refurbishing the rundown property and it shows: the breakfast room is light and spacious, with contemporary furnishings, and each individually-styled bedroom boasts a flat-screen TV and Wi-Fi.
First 24 Hours
Do the Old Town
Wander round the rarefied streets of the conservation area (centred around Middle Street), then head to the high street for antique and gift shops (try Serendipity, 125 High St, Greencades, 142, and F & F, 152), delis (don’t miss the charming Allotment at 119, and excellent French cheeses at No Name (110 High St), and Saturday market, with stalls selling fresh bread, local produce and garden plants.
Coast and Castles
Deal seeps history: the delightful Maritime Museum (23 St George’s Road), which offers a comprehensive history of the town and its smuggling past, is a good starting point, then work off a fish and chip lunch at 78 Middle Street with a brisk seafront hike, taking in the Timeball Tower (with splendid views from the top), rose-shaped Deal Castle, and idyllic Walmer Castle, where you can scoff a cream tea on the battlements. Still energetic upon your return? Head up to the 16th-century Sandown Castle ruin (towards Sandwich).
Pub Crawl
Deal’s smuggling past means that its pubs are legendary. Start with a pint on the piazza outside the 18th century King’s Head (9 Beach St), then head north to The Bohemian (47 Beach St), with its good range of local ales, before disappearing into the old town and boarding The Ship (141 Middle Street), or the tiny Prince Albert (187 Middle Street), and winding up at the rowdy Deal Hoy (16 Duke Street).
Lazy-day Sunday
St Margaret’s Bay
This pretty cove, where Noel Coward owned a house on the beach, makes a glorious walk from Deal across the shingle beaches and chalk cliffs (seven miles one way). Grab a pint in the village of Kingsdown en route, and book The Coastguard, the ‘closest pub to France’, for a top quality lunch. Take a cab back to Deal.
Sandwich
Just a few miles north inland is Sandwich, with its winding streets, ancient houses, cosy restaurants, pleasant riverside setting – and, if you fancy a Sunday morning game, the Royal Cinque Ports golf courses.
Catch it if you can
The Boot Fair runs most Saturdays at the Landmark Centre on the High Street where you can rummage through anything from old sepia postcards of Deal to that decanter you’ve been after for years.
Where to Eat
The Courtyard, Oyster Bar & Restaurant, Sondes Road
Try delicious tempura oysters, the freshest mussels or superior gravadlax at this upmarket hotspot, which opened a 60-seater restaurant in 2008.
Chequers, Golf Road
Unusual colonial-style restaurant set back off the beach where you can sample more-ish Cape Malay dishes including Boboties and Sosaties, as well as good South African wines.
Dunkerley’s, Beach St
This rather stuffy Deal institution has been given a new lease of life by its all day al fresco bistro on the piazza, perfect for people-watching over a glass of wine and plate of fish.
81 Beach St
Good seasonal cooking in a simply-furnished brasserie opposite the beach. Service is leisurely.
The Black Douglas, 83 Beach St
Perfect home-made breakfasts, cakes, coffee and light lunches with a cosy garden at the rear.