Vientiane's Ultimate Shopping Guide by Cynthia Rosenfeld

Laos’ sleepy capital takes its name from the era of Indochina though the city has been important to the area since at least the 14th century. Still, most tourists bypass Vientiane to head straight for lovely Luang Prabang, where streets are lined with shimmering temples. Those who come to this once sleepy city along the Mekong River will find a mini-construction boom, good for Laos no doubt but inconvenient for tourists and shoppers unaccustomed to leaping over just poured concrete en route to sumptuous silks.

Even locals refer to it as the Morning Market (off Rue Mahosot) though, in fact, it is open all day. Start here anyway, like diving in the deep end. Clean but rather toasty, the rows and rows of silk weavings are enough to drive even an aficionado dizzy. Vintage textile bags look far chicer than their asking price, but bargain anyway. When you hit the refrigerators and electric keyboards, turn around and head back for more inexpensive cotton checked sarongs, textile teddy bears and gently worn hill tribe baby slings with intricate, colourful stitch work that make attractive wall hangings.

The undisputed queen of weaving here is actually American Carol Cassidy who, along with her African husband, has turned Lao Textiles (Ban Mixay) into the country’s must stop shop. Located in a 1900s Franco-Lao mansion near the Mekong, this is a veritable museum of warp and weft. Inexpensive collectibles fill the lower floor, like little love pillows, monochrome farm scarves and simple brocade runners featuring the mythical Lao Siho, a half-lion, half-elephant revered by locals as a symbol of fertility.

Proud mama Cassidy has brought daughter Sarah into the business, allowing the 12-year-old to play with colour on vibrant scarves and wraps that are being snapped up by London ladies for their own pretty progeny. Even if your wallet has been exhausted, mount the stairs to see the world class collection of one of a kind wall hangings on the second floor.

Vientiane’s fashion fix can be found just down the street at Satri Lao (Ban Mixay). The Lao owner scours Southeast Asia’s markets for sequined, spangled frocks and unusual lacquer ware, taking the burden off tourists in a hurry. Hollowed coconut bowls lacquered pink turn the simple shape into something funky, and indigenous textile boxer shorts make practical souvenirs. There’s no beach nearby, but the cowry shell bikinis will make a stylish accessory on future travels for sure.

Pop into Mixay Boutique (053/55 Nokeokoummane Street, Ban Mixay) for adorable stuffed elephants and monkeys covered in Day-Glo antique textiles that little ones will love, plus easy to pack silk sleeping bags that make the perfect gift for the adventurous traveller who likes a little luxury.

Next door at Lao Silk Store (Ban Mixay), consider polished rosewood bowls and carved dragon hangers to show off wall-worthy textiles then head towards the Mekong to Camacrafts (Nokeokoummane Street, Ban Mixay). The founder, Kommaly Chanthavong was nominated for a 2005 Nobel Prize for creating silk weaving opportunities in this struggling country, but the high quality items would be worth buying even without this tender tale. House wares abound, from simple potholders to festive holiday ornaments shaped like candy canes, but the most charming items are baby bibs that come in the shape of elephants, penguins and cuddly bunnies.

Sophisticated sorts will be surprised to find wearable designs in Laos, but the selection at Tamarind (Ban Xiengnheune) has clearly been influenced by a more global aesthetic. Three quarter length silk coats, wrap around blouses and business jackets by ISA collection are all office worthy, in muted neutrals and of course, basic black. Those with a bit of boho flair should consider the Kashmiri inspired flower brocade skirt, perhaps teamed with an ethnic hill tribe silver choker.