Veneto Suites by Christopher Deliso

This gem of a boutique hotel, tucked into a quiet side street of Rethymno’s Venetian old town, is so inconspicuously and harmoniously blended into its surroundings that even many locals don’t know where it is. The historic building grew out of a 14th-century Dominican monastery, and was then rebuilt as a grand manor house by an Italian architect a century later. After the Ottoman conquest of Crete, it became a luxurious residence for important Turkish officials; following the liberation of Crete in 1897, it came into the hands of owner Yannis Prokopakis’ grandfather, a fighter sent to the Macedonian front in the first years of the 20th century.

This tumultuous history permeates the Veneto; the magnificent stone arches of its entrance way and dining hall, come under a baroque spell at night, with sparse lighting emanating from the corners. The soothing back garden is strewn with artefacts, and the rooms are marked by antique furnishings and doors. Ancient stone basins where fresh flowers float on a soft-lit watertop add to this enchanting air. At the Veneto one feels the coziness of a boutique hotel, the romantic ethos of Rethymno’s old town all around and, both inside the hotel and without, the lingering spirit of Crete’s renaissance period.

Having only 10 rooms, the Veneto does not boast many extra facilities, though the restaurant and extensive wine cellar do enjoy a great reputation. The eclectic geometry of its back garden, where breakfast is served and evening drinks can be enjoyed, is attested by giant, broad-leaved palms concealing a disappearing staircase and multiple small fountains emerging from the vine-laden walls, set amidst flowering trees, soft arches and enormous terra-cotta amphorae. The perpetual sound of falling water is wonderfully relaxing; alas, the fountains are turned off at midnight.

The Veneto has a highly acclaimed restaurant. Owner Yannis is also a chef and member of the Greek Academy of Wine and Taste. His wine cellar, which guests can see, is extensive. The restaurant specializes in traditional Cretan food, using fresh, mainly organic local ingredients, prepared in an inventive and modern way, and also includes a smattering of Italian/Mediterranean dishes and fresh seafood.

The hotel is also thinking of holding cooking classes for guests who’d like to bring home with them a taste of traditional Cretan cuisine after their vacation.

The city is located roughly midway between Heraklio Airport (80 km to the east) and that of Chania (65 km to the west). From Rethymno it is only a 45-minute drive through fantastic gorges to Crete’s less-visited southern coast, where excellent beaches can be found.

After passing through the archway separating Rethymno proper from its Venetian old town, the hotel is about 150 meters down, on a left-hand side street branching off halfway down the main thoroughfare.

The rooms
The simple but elegant rooms at the Veneto are warmly decorated with Cretan traditional handcraft, ornate antique furnishings and nice touches; the thick wood door of one suite is 500 years old. If there are any drawbacks, it might be said that the prevalent plain tiled floors are a tad underwhelming, and the beds and baths are a bit small; in rooms where the shower door extends to the floor, water easily seeps out. Still it seems excellent value for money, considering also the prime location in the heart of Rethymno’s old town.