Ultimate Barcelona Shopping by Cynthia Rosenfeld
Featured Hotel in Barri Gotic
Neri Hotel & Restaurant
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Basque separatists long kept visitors from enjoying the cultural attractions of Barcelona, from the Picasso Museum housed in a 14th-century palace, to Antonio Gaudi’s soaring Sagrada Família Church. Since hosting the 1992 Olympic Games, the Catalan capital has steadily transformed itself into Spain’s hippest city, home to some of Europe’s hottest hotels, chicest shoes and that mecca of Mediterranean fashion, Zara.
Architecture buffs flock to the elegant, leafy Passeig de Gracia to gaze up at Modernist gems like Gaudi’s Casa Batlló and La Pedrera as well as Luis Domenich I Montaner’s Casa Lleó Morera, while those with a love of all things ancient will want to wind their way through the Barri Gotic, the 12-15th-century labyrinth of narrow streets surrounding the 13th-century Cathedral.
Watch out for the bits of Roman walls still found in this charming neighbourhood that dates back to the first century, but keep an eye out for thoroughly modern foot fashions at La Manual Alpargatera (Avinyo 7). Devotees of the espadrille flock here, where walls are lined with the classic Spanish woven sole sandal in a Technicolor array of colours and styles, but those with their own ideas can bring fabric and ribbon to customize to their heart and soles’ content.
More woven wonders can be found in the cheap and cheerful boutiques that line the passageway between Playa Cucurulla and Avinguda Portal de l’Angel. You’ll be heading this way to pay homage, in Euros or at least fashion allegiance, at Zara (Avinguda Portal de l’Angel). Check out the newly launched Zara Home floor for trendsetting bedding.
Diehard fans can cross the grand Plaça Catalunya to Passeig de Gracia for more of the same at Number 16 or open their wallets considerably wider for a buttery bit of luxury leather from Loewe (Passeig de Gracia 35). Considered Spain’s most exclusive brand (think Hérmes on the Med), this shop opened in the Art Nouveau Casa Lleó Morera in 1943, but the brand has been reinventing itself since 1846, most recently thanks to fashion-forward designs from Belgian Jose Enrique Ona Selfa.
Take a culture break at the new Museum of Contemporary Art, a stark architectural statement designed by American Richard Meier (Placa dels Angels 1) before perusing the equally modern, artful designs nearby at hip Spanish shoe boutique Camper (Placa dels Angels 4), where the left and right shoe may only loosely resemble one another (matching is so last season) but offer a comfortable fit ideal for making your way forward on foot.
Passing up a taste of Spanish chocolate would be a mistake. Splurge on custom flavours like green tea or thyme chocolate bars and homemade raspberry chocolate jam at XOCOA (Carme 3). Your sugar high should last long enough to lead you back through the Barri Gotic heading south along the famed pedestrian-filled La Rambla, taking a left onto Ferran Jaume to the emerging neighbourhood of El Born.
Keep walking past the endless line at the Picasso Museum (Calle Montcada 15-19), a fantastic collection well worth the wait, but save it for Sunday when the shop doors are shut. Today stroll along the intimate Calle Flassaders. Try on pretty party frocks by Julie Sohn at the deceptively named Café de la Princessa (Flassanders 21) then pick up soft, artisan-made finger puppets and fantasy animals that make sweet souvenirs at Almacen Marabi (Flassader 30).
Much more grownup are the gowns, blouses and constructed jackets at Cortana (Flassader 41) where local design darling Rosa Cortana shows off her feminine silhouettes in silk tulle and cashmere. Even the owner of the equally chic La Coquette (Rec 65) across Passage del Born says she dreams of a closet full of Cortana.
For inspiration on places to stay, check out TI's listings for luxury hotels in Barcelona.