Ubud Shopping Guide by Cynthia Rosenfeld
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Back in the days before credit cards and sample sales, an 8th-century Buddhist priest sailed to Bali from Java on pilgrimage. He found his promise land in the farming village of Ubud, deep in Bali’s lush interior. Here he meditated and built a shrine, now known as Pura Campuan. These days, style acolytes head to these same hills but with the decidedly less austere mission of shopping on their minds. Boutiques line the narrow village streets where some of Indonesia’s most talented artisans sell their stunning wares.
An almost religious experience for sybarites and those who aspire to be, Amandari resort (Kedeatan, Ubud) is a must see. Even those who can’t afford to overnight should make their way through the rice terraces to the well stocked boutique. Eyes are naturally drawn to the antique Rangda mask, a central figure in the Ramayana fable. This one is made with human hair!
Less exotic but not less magical are the 75 year old Javanese wedding couple statues and sets of Balinese couples carved of jack wood who locals believe protect the home. Chic coiled candles in this season’s must have metallic by Sinar Alami will upgrade anyone’s abode without breaking budgets and those who want to get their tots off to a stylish start should snap up an Amandari baby tee.
Ubud shops open early so don’t dawdle or delay. Keep your car and driver or brave the fray on foot, but don’t miss Threads of Life (Jalan Kajeng 24). This fair trade non-profit enterprise promotes women’s empowerment and sustainable development through traditional Balinese weaving known as ikat. Threads are soaked in natural dyes then woven into lengths of motif covered fabric that make for bold men’s shorts, striking silk shawls and sarongs.
Downstairs, look for charming betel boxes from Sumba featuring mythical birds and hand woven of lontar leaf. The latest darling along these crowded drags is the recently opened Jean Francois Fichot gallery (Jalan Suweta 6, Ubud). The French jeweller has been living in Ubud for over 30 years and is already known to guests of Bali’s finest hotels that stock his original bling.
At his first eponymous retail outlet, collect sterling silver lotus flower earrings with chalcedony teardrops or upgrade to 18K gold rings set with South Sea pearls and emeralds. Across the street another longtime resident, Rio Helmi (Jalan Suweta 5, Ubud) shows off his unique photographic perspective on the island from digital prints of verdant rice terraces to dramatic dancers in ink on polyvinyl.
Antique aficionados should make a beeline for Macan Tidur (Monkey Forest Road, Ubud). The name means ‘sleeping tiger’ but this collection is a wake up call to anyone seeking to understand Indonesia’s rich artistic heritage. Tribal body ornaments from Irian Jaya like necklaces made of bone and fossil hang alongside Cirebon gilded masks with haunting visages from North Java and there is one entire room piled high with textiles from elegantly faded batik shawls in non-figurative patterns of the Muslim communities on Sumatra to ornate gold threaded flowers on purple velvet from Bengkulu.
Those who want to wear their bit of Ubud right away can load up on colourful, inexpensive sundresses at Nilakandi (Jalan Dewi Sita, Ubud) and stuff the change inside purses made from vintage sarong. In need of more adornment? The best fashion value in this shop packed onetime farming village must be the Buddhist inspired necklaces made funky in felt at Pilih Pilih (Jalan Dewi Sita, Ubud), a modern, wearable reminder of Ubud’s more meditative past.