In Ubud with the Gods by Anthea Gerrie

Leaving the relentlessly beach-bound behind you, head for Ubud, both the geographical and spiritual centre of Bali. Hang out in one of the many hotels or guesthouses amidst the rice-terraces outside town where you can shower alfresco and wait - not very long- for one of the many auspicious days on which Balinese will down tools, prepare towering gifts of fruit and flowers for the gods and carry them on their heads to a temple in the ravines, from where you will be soothed to sleep by the music of their chanting long into the perfumed night in which all your senses become almost unbearably alive. Anthea Gerrie