True Tonga by Susan Miles

The Kingdom of Tonga holds dear its family centred culture and its unique position in the pacific region. Having remained independent of colonial rule, it is the last constitutional monarchy in the Polynesian world. With the celebration of King George IV’s coronation in late 2008 still resonating throughout the islands, Tonga is unmistakably a proud Kingdom.

There is a gentle, peaceful rhythm to life on Tonga. Reflecting the steady lapping waves on the beaches and the hypnotic sound of the ocean breezes rustling the palm trees, fisherman steadily bail out their boats in preparation for their next stint at sea, while mothers and daughters sit in companionable silence as they effortlessly thatch palm leaves for the roof and walls of a traditional Tongan house.

Time is not necessarily slower in Tonga, just more graciously applied. Locals offer a cheery wave from motor vehicles to passing friends and neighbors, while a smiling greeting soon turns to an engaging conversation. There is no standing on the sidelines in Tonga, whether shopping at the markets, island hopping via an inter-island boat ride or enjoying the buffet at a Tongan feast, visitors will find themselves drawn into chats on life and family.

Tonga is not completely devoid of hustle and bustle, there is plenty of fluid hustle displayed during a village rugby game and the local kids good naturedly bustle amongst themselves in their cheeky calls of ‘Hi’ to a new face.

It is therefore wise to take inspiration from the warm and inquiring Tongan way of life, and take the time to uncover the many facets of this unique island nation.

The Tongan Capital, Nukualofa

Visitors can do no better than to start their exploration on the main island of Tongatapu, home to the majority of the 100,000 plus population and the capital Nukualofa. Here the King makes his home, while a modest parliament building and a grand Catholic Basilica are landmarks of this compact capital.

Life of the city is undoubtedly the Talamahu market. Tongan markets range from simple, neat piles of yams, coconuts and sweet potato on the road side to rows of tables laden with fresh fruits and stalls stocked with woven baskets full of tarot and crayfish.

Amongst the fresh produce, at the Talamahu market are the materials for traditional Tongan dress. Yards of white tapas cloth are carefully examined and measured by market goers. At home the cloth will be carefully dyed, decorated and fashioned into the wrap style over-dress, the Ngatu, that will worn at special events and family occasions.

The curious long fawn strips, dried pandanus leaves are hung high on the stalls or displayed in tight rolls will be weaved and knotted into the Taovala , a matt style garment worn by men and women, and the Kieke, a belted decoration that will be worn with Sunday best for weekly church services.

Artistic examples of the finished product, fashioned into bags, table mats and wall hangings, along with pearl, seashell and polished coconut jewelry offer good take home treasures of Tonga.

At Faua Wharf, where boats carry supplies, day trippers and holiday makers to the resort islands of Fafa, Attata and Pangaimotu, a morning fish market offers freshly caught produce. Shaded stall tables are draped with squid, woven baskets of crayfish and handfuls of shellfish tied into palm leaf fashioned bags.

The market’s fresh produce reappears on the menu and buffets of the resorts and restaurants on the island. For a slick and fun night, the Liku’alofa Beach Resort offers an evening show of dancing from across the Polynesian world accompanied by an extensive buffet of fresh salads, succulent seafood and tender pork. Less slick, but with a genuine vibe of Tongan hospitality, the ‘Oholei Beach dinner and show starts with buffet of Tongan cuisine on the beach and concludes with a delightful performance of Tongan dancing in the intimate setting of Hina cave.

Exploring Tongatapu

A cow happily grazes in the shade, oblivious to the landmark monument that shares its grassy field. Built in 1200AD, the mysterious Ha’amonga ‘A Maui Trilithan comprises two 40 tonne pillars of coral rock joined by a suspended pedestal. Suggested as either a symbol of brotherhood, a royal gateway or with its season aligning markers, a solistice marker, it is a must visit on exploring Tongatapu.

As well as this, there are the Terraced Tombs of Lapaha; a collection of royal tombs that have been constructed of limestone, brought by canoe from the neighboring island of Pangaimotu. The tombs, like many of the pristine churches on the island are occasionally found behind locked gates. Not to discourage visitors, but keep out the ever curious and scavenging village pigs.

However some of the most spectacular monuments on Tongatapu are not man-made, but splendid renderings from mother-nature. Visitors can uncover the native Peka bats amongst the towering stalactites of the ’Anahulu Cave, the hidden beauty of the natural land bridge and look on in awe at the water show provided by the Mapu’a Vaea - Vaea’s Whistle. Stretching along the shoreline, the simple combination of big waves, coastal winds and vents in the coral shelf provide a rhythmic water display from the 5kms of blowholes.

Visited by European explorers and missionaries for centuries, Tonga remembers its famous visitors around Tongatapu. The Christanity Landing place marks the first celebration of the holy sacrament by Rev John Thomas in 1826, while both the landing sites of explorers Abel Tasman and James Cook are remembered on the island. Captain Cooks Landing Place on the shores of the Fanga'uta Lagoon, notes the spot where Cook shaded under a welcoming Banyan Tree when he stepped ashore in 1777.

These historic sites, ancient monuments and natural wonders can be enjoyed on a day or half day circle island tour of Tongatapu. However if feeling more energetic and perhaps aspired to replicate Cooks landing, the newly established Fatai Kayak Enterprises offers guided kayak tours around the Tu'I Tonga (Kings of Tonga) harbour. The tour allows visitors to paddle to Cooks landing place, the Terraced Tombs and take in the tree dwelling flying foxes and the amusing ‘fishing pigs’, industrious village pigs that forage at low tide for shellfish along the beachfront.

Village Experience

With the population dispersed around dozens of islands and throughout countless villages, life in Tonga is all about village life. The Esi o Ma’afu homestay within the Ha’apai island group is the chance for visitors to sample daily Tongan life.

The journey via inter-island flight to Ha’apai is an opportunity to take in a spectacular birds’ eye view of the variety of populated and unpopulated islands that make up the Kingdom.

From Ha’apai it’s on to a water taxi for a delightfully relaxing journey to the island of ‘Uiha. Accommodation is 5 simple fales (huts) with shared facilities and 5-star beachfront views. Bring nothing but your beach towel and snorkel, simple but delicious meals are provided in the kitchen of the homestay host.

A fishing village of less than 200 residents, visitors will find themselves quickly absorbed into village life, from meeting the village kids and their treasured pets, sharing in a Kava drinking party to joining the spectators at an impromptu rugby game. The village women, working in family groups busily turning pandanus leaves into exquisite metres of woven matting, make visitors welcome to sit and chat about their craft, their families and share a joke over the favourite Tongan question ‘Are you married?’

‘Uiha is a place to find either solitude in the sea, on a stretch of deserted beach or on a stroll through the island's lush interior, or great company and conversation over a bowl of Kava, a breadfruit casserole or the creation of a beautiful piece of Tongan weaving.