Travels in Russia: Moscow and St Petersburg by Mark Davidson
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I was intrigued to see how the country once dubbed as the 'Evil Empire' by Ronald Reagan had responded to such a great degree of change in a short space of time. Upon my arrival at the airport, I had a vision of being greeted by Russian guards whose only purpose in life was to enforce the ideals of Communism. Yet, I was pleasantly surprised at the modern thinking of today's Russia.
A little over 15 years ago, an arriving wheelchair user would have needed plenty of assistance to navigate their way out of the airport. The Russians have obviously embraced the meaning of Glasnost, with lifts at the airport to help those in need of gaining access to different levels of the complex.
On heading outside there was a deep covering of snow. Like many with disabilities, the wintry conditions didn't make me totally confident underfoot and I wondered how people with greater impairments might cope in what we might regard as a harsh environment. Yet the paths were kept relatively clear and it didn't seem all that difficult to get anywhere. But it was cold, making it obligatory for everyone to don thick gloves and be thankful if they remembered to pack their thermal underwear.
First Stop: Moscow
My accommodation for the next three nights was the Hotel lzmalova, built for the Moscow Olympics and a throwback to the Communist era, replete with awful décor; carpets designed in the seventies and nylon sheets that gave a nasty shock upon contact. However, not everything was quite so retro and a number of lifts within the hotel complex helped people with limited mobility to get to their room with ease.
The first day of sightseeing was to the G.U.M department store, once the biggest shopping complex in the world. The name Gosudarstvennyy Universalnyy Magazin dates from 1921. It once housed more than a thousand shops, selling goods ranging from furs and silks to humble candles. However, during the rule of Stalin the shops were requisitioned as offices. A visit to the G.U.M should be accessible to all, as I didn't come across any steps that might interrupt the enjoyment of shopping.
The main attraction for tourists, Red Square, is still paved with its original stones. Lines mark the route that tanks once followed as they rolled past Lenin's tomb for each May Day parade. Everyone seemed to gaze in awe at the colourful ice-cream domes of 16th century St Basil's (the Cathedral of the Intercession) where Ivan the Terrible once worshipped, although I could only wonder how a ruthless Tsar would have treated those in a similar situation as myself.
The nearby Kremlin, although not designed to be accessible, is relatively easy to navigate with plenty of guards on hand to help anybody who finds the complex taxing. However, entry to some of the buildings is only possible for ambulant users - although that is not to say that the architecture cannot be admired from the outside.
The Kremin's Jewels, a Crowning Glory
Within the walls of the Kremlin the royal armoury can be found, which houses what are arguably some of the most spectacular jewels in the world. From a crown worn by Ivan the Terrible to one that once adorned the head of Nicholas the Second; later murdered by the Bolsheviks. These were placed alongside the world famous Faberge eggs, designed by Carl Faberge. They make our own crown jewels look somewhat inadequate. Even more amazing is the seeming lack of security on the display cases. However, with Russian guards lurking at every corner, it would be difficult to get very far without being apprehended.
On returning to the hotel for the evening, I travelled on the Metro, which is not conducive to wheelchair users, although I did see one person balancing in a wheelchair on the escalator as it descended into the subway. For the less daring there were no elevators, so it would take planning and forethought to ride on one of the trains - in the rush hour it could become a difficult exercise. The metro was initially built by workers in the 1930's. Many thousands died during construction and it was portrayed as a monument to the united struggle that was the Russian Revolution.
Upon leaving the station, I was confronted by a policeman. An old lady had taken exception to a photograph I'd inadvertently taken of her. Even though I didn't understand any Russian he pointed to my camera and said "Niet". However, I managed to persuade him nothing untoward had taken place and got away without incident, though it did cross my mind that I might be followed back to my hotel!
The following day I made my way to Gorky Park, immortalised in the opening scenes of Michael Apted's eponymous film starring William Hurt and Lee Marvin. Access to the park is via a subway.
The Russians have a novel way to get pushchairs and wheelchairs up and down stairs - they have rails to allow the wheels to ascend and descend the inclines. Inside the park, there are plenty of empty benches, leaving tourists to imagine the days when secrets were passed from one spy to another.
Travelling Onwards to St Petersburg
Before departing for St. Petersburg in the evening, I travelled to see the stunningly beautiful monastery of Sergiev Posad, sixty kilometres from Moscow. There was even time to take a break in a small teashop, with beverages served by a burly tea lady. The station in Moscow had all the hallmarks of the communist regime. The corridors on the train were quite narrow and all the cabins were four berth consisting of two bunk beds on each side. Below each of the bottom bunks there was a compartment to place all the luggage in - very handy.
St. Petersburg was founded by Peter the Great as his 'Window on the West', and built on the hundred islets that formed the delta of the Neva River. It can surely be acclaimed as one of the most beautiful cities in Europe - some would say the most beautiful. Peter's original idea for its location as a naval base on the Baltic Coast was perhaps something of a mistake; the port was ice-bound for one third of the year. It was later to become the city for great writers such as Pushkin and Dostoyevski.
The accommodation in the city is modern in comparison to that in Moscow, with good facilities and a better taste in design. The main attraction is the State Hermitage, which was the Winter Palace of Tzar Nicholas the Second. It is presently home to some of the greatest art collections in the world, with works from Rembrandt, Da Vinci, Monet and Picasso. As it has been recently refurbished, the authorities have obviously made efforts to cater for people with limited mobility as access is relatively easy in and out of each viewing room.
One way to get around in St. Petersburg is to flag down any vehicle on the street. On asking a passer-by, I was told the locals see it as a way to earn a little extra income. To do this you hold your arm out straight with your palm downwards. This indicated to any passing driver that you are looking for a lift.
I felt dining would be a problem, as there are steps leading down to many of the restaurants. Again, careful planning is a must to ascertain where food can be eaten for those in need of assistance. The majority of food is very much of a European style, especially Italian, with pizza and pasta on the menu in the majority of eateries.
The Unmissable Sights
When it came to buying souvenirs, shop owners had an interesting way of coercing the unwary traveller into buying their goods. Like many organised tours groups, people are taken to places where there is an agreement between the owner and tour guide. Once inside everyone is plied with vodka to help them part with their money. Unfortunately, I didn't like the Russian dolls on offer anyway, and ended up departing rather the worse for wear without having spent a single rouble.
No trip to St Petersburg would be complete without visiting St Catherine's Palace at Puskin, with its famous Amber Room. Like all the palaces in Russia, people are expected to place extra large slippers over their shoes, as many of the floors have the original wood from when the buildings were first constructed. The Amber Room was reconstructed from photographs after it was completely gutted by the Nazis during the Second World War.
When visiting the Yusupov Palace, tales are told as to how, in the basement, Grigoriy Rasputin the Mad Monk was murdered in the early twentieth century. There was much controversy surrounding his death, but from what I was told by a local guide, he was murdered by Felix Prince Yusupov. The story recited to me was that he was initially poisoned. It then transpired that this was an ineffective way to kill him, so he was shot a number of times.
The dome of St. Isaac's Cathedral dominates the skyline of St Petersburg and its gilded cupola can be seen glistening from all over the city. If you can climb up the 300 or so steps to the observation walkway at the base of the cathedral's dome there are breathtaking views to enjoy over the city. However, it should only be attempted by those who have a good set of lungs, and I for one felt in dire need of breath after reaching the top.
Upon entering the inside of the cathedral I marvelled at the columns, which were made of single pieces of red granite and weigh eighty tons a piece. A custodian within the building told me that it can accommodate 14,000 worshipers.
The oldest landmark in St Petersburg is the Fortress of Peter and Paul. When Peter the Great re-conquered the lands along the Neva River in 1703, he decided to build a fort to protect the area from possible attack by the Swedish army and navy. The fortress was founded on a small island in the Neva delta on 27 May 1703 and that day became the birthday of the city of St Petersburg. In the middle of the fortress is the Cathedral of Peter and Paul, a church where all the Russian Emperors and Empresses from Peter the Great to Alexander III are buried. The weather vane is one of the most prominent symbols of the city and, at 404 feet, is its highest point.
On the last day of the tour I visited the Alexander Nevsky Monastery. This is the burial place of the good and the great of Russian history, such as Tchaikovsky and Rimsky Korsakov. Unfortunately, I saw many people in wheelchairs having to beg for food and money, highlighting how badly communism treated those who were wrongly considered less worthy to society. Despite the end of communism, older people still seem to live in the shadow of oppression. With my own disability, I was thankful I hadn't been born during that era.
Looking back, I feel Russia is a wonderful place to visit thanks to the splendour of the buildings, yet it is a place that hasn't been built with disabled people in mind. However, with a bit of planning it can be made into a holiday that you will never forget.
Don't land yourself in a retro-tastic hotel like Mark: instead browse our pick of the best luxury hotels in Russia.