The Iolani Palace, Hawaii’s Royal History by Susan Miles

A few short miles from the white sands, gentle surf and resort hotels of famous Waikiki beach, an elegant home, a Palace no less, holds the treasures and history of Hawaii’s royal past. For before Hawaii was a state, a territory or a republic, it was in fact a Kingdom. The Kingdom of Hawaii, from the warrior king of Kamehameha I, who united the islands of Hawaii, to Queen Lili’uokalani who was deposed from her throne in a bloodless coup, lasted less than 80 years. However the monarchs of Hawaii were learned, educated and worldly leaders, and befitting their status, have left us a grand palace to remind us of their existence, The Iolani Palace.

The Iolani Palace was built by King Kalakaua, the second last Hawaiian monarch, in the early 1880’s. It was designed to assert the new King’s power, as he was King not by divine right, but by legislative ballot. It was also built to restore confidence in the declining Kingdom and lift the spirits of its people. Hawaii was going through great change at this time, with the combined impact of a rapidly growing sugar industry, a decline in the Hawaiian population, increased immigration and general outside influences, were all impacting on traditional Hawaiian culture and the stability of the monarchy.

King Kalakaua’s pride in his islands traditional culture, fascination with European monarchy’s and proximity to the US mainland influenced the design and finish of the palace.

Described as “American Florentine”, the two storey building is topped by 6 towers, finished in a mixture of Hawaiian Koa, American Walnut and Oregon cedar. The grounds of the palace are dominated by the Coronation Pavilion, a classic Europe style structure built for the lavish crowning of King Kalakaua and Queen Kapi’olani, and encircled by a wall constructed of coral slabs quarried from the ocean reefs.

The King decorated the Palace with gifts from European royals and dignitaries, (a mantle clock from Napoleon), European inspired (but American built) furnishings and royal orders collected from his grand circumnavigation of the globe (the first ever Monarch to do so).

Visitors to the Iolani Palace are guided through the building and its history by the Dosens of the Palace. These knowledgeable individuals are members of the “Friends of the Iolani Palace” a formidable group of volunteers who are responsible for the restoration and ongoing preservation of this historic landmark.

The first floor provides visitors with the public view of the Hawaiian Monarchy. Their fondness for entertaining visiting dignitaries with music and state dinners is reflected in the elegantly decorated reception (blue room) and adjoining dining room. Across the wide hall, with its massive hand-carved wooden staircase, the throne room is restored to its original state with crystal chandeliers and traditional Kahili (royal feather standards) as befitting the royal balls and receptions that were held here. Later this same room was the setting for Queen Lili'uo’alani’s treason trial and finally the House of Representative for the State of Hawaii.

Upstairs we see the more personal side to the Hawaiian rulers. The Kings interest not just in Hawaiian and European culture, but the technological advances of the day. The innovative disappearing shutters in the bedrooms, the telephone to his chamberlain in the Palace basement and the electric lighting that the King had installed in 1887, making the Iolani Palace the first royal residence to enjoy this modern convenience.

In the Queen’s bedroom is a portrait of Queen Kapi’olani resplendent in Victorian gown and royal orders at the Jubilee celebrations in London for Queen Victoria. This must have been one of the highlights of the King and Queens rein as they were treated as honored guests at this grand royal occasion.

Alias, while honored in England and Europe, changes at home saw the King pressured to accept a new constitution that reduced his powers so that he would reign rather than rule the Kingdom of Hawaii. On his death, and the ascent of his sister, Queen L ili’uokalani, her attempt to restore the powers of the Monarchy resulted in her eventual dethroning. While this was handled peacefully, the Queen later faced the indignity of being jailed and tried within in the Palace when an insurrection in her name failed and Queen L ili’ukalani was charged with misprison of treason (concealing knowledge of treason). Her 8 months of confinement is remembered in the aster and simply furnished “Queens prison bedroom”, a stark contrast to the lavish decorations of the rest of the Palace. Also housed in the prison bedroom is the “imprisonment quilt”, the middle panel which the Queen embroidered with key dates of her life during her confinement.

The famed Hawaiian musician Israel Kamakawiwo ‘Ole in the song, “Hawaii ‘78” laments what the Hawaiian King and Queen would make of modern Hawaii if they returned today to see the “highways on their sacred grounds”. One can only imagine. But I am confident they would approve of the honor and reverence shown to Hawaii’s royal history kept alive within the walls of the Iolani Palace.