Thanksgiving in New England by Daphne Beames

‘Thanksgiving’ is a word that only Americans truly understand - ask anyone else and you will get a million vapid, commonplace answers. Ask an American and the word soars to a whole new meaning: embracing food, family and the focus-for-life.

Boston, Massachusetts, is cold in November – but from the first moment of landing at Logan international airport, the mood is decidedly up-beat: ‘Thanksgiving’ is in the air! On the fourth Thursday of the eleventh month, the United States celebrates - and New Englanders give thanks in a big way.

Our ‘pilgimage’ was timed for late October: to catch the last flames of autumnal colour and to watch the elaborate preparations as thoughts turn to a time of traditional family reunion.

A glitch occurred when our baggage was found not to have accompanied us on our flight from Chicago.
‘No problem’, we were assured, ‘it will arrive on the next plane’.
‘Surely not’, we thought, ‘not in these times of heightened security’. But, oh ye of little faith, twenty minutes later the bags duly arrived.

We drove straight past the familiar, black skyscrapers of the Boston skyline and headed for Rte-2W and the village of Concord - a rich, historical landmark.

Time your visit for sundown - and the first glimpse of the oldest inn in all America, lit by the flickering glow of the lamps of evening; arrayed in red, white and blue bunting and set before a backdrop of tanzanite sky - is pure chocolate-box charm.

The Old Colonial Inn was begun in 1716, pre-dating American Independence by sixty years! It stands facing the village green in Monument Square - surrounded by historic churches; ‘literary homes’; slatted, wooden houses and near the site of the original ‘Concord’ (or agreement) signed with the Indians and ceding to the settlers ‘six myles of land’. This village is a rare find!

Once over the threshold you will be transported back in time: into the picturesque world of cottage style where gleaming, hard wood floors; antique furnishings; Victorian dolls and patchwork quilts combine to produce cosy hospitality. There is the gracious elegance of the sitting room; the literary allure of the Thoreau Room and the gastronomic appeal of the Forge and Liberty Restaurants.

Dinner is an experience. We summoned the chef to discuss the menu and also to ask about the delights that would be on offer for Thanksgiving Lunch (which, of course, revolves around the ubiquitous turkey). That evening we ordered a rich and creamy clam chowder followed by the most enormous portions of Maine Lobster and then voted to sample the traditional Indian dessert: a delicious concoction including pumpkin and molasses. Is it any wonder that America has become an obese society?

The next morning we rose early to explore the sights on our doorstep: a village overflowing with culture and history. There are mouldering graves, turn-of-the-century homes - where rocking chairs still recline on olde-worlde verandahs, immaculate churches and statues of Paul Revere and the ‘Minute Man’. (In 1775, with the outbreak of the American War of Independence, colonists had to be ready ‘in a minute’ to defend their adopted homeland from advancing British troops.)

Stroll down the road and you are in ‘Literary Land’! The first gem on the route is ‘Orchard House’: the early home of Louisa May Alcott - of ‘Little Women’ fame. This brown, wooden house, now a museum, stands slightly back from the road; is surrounded by a wild, indigenous garden and simply oozes with character. (One can almost march down the path with Jo and Amy!)

Further along the same street stands ‘Wayside’: the yellow and white double-storey once owned by the writer, Nathaniel Hawthorne, and later by the Alcotts. (It is open to the public daily from May to October excluding Wednesdays.)

Drop in on the former home of Ralph Waldo Emerson and discover Henry David Thoreau’s cabin in the woods - near Walden Pond. Here the author eschewed home comforts for two years – preferring to commune with nature.

Travel the ‘Battle Road’ - running from Concord to Lexington (site of the opening shots in the War of Independence). This 11 kms journey back into 18th-century, military history begins in Concord with a visit to the Old North Bridge (located off Monument Street and the site of the first American victory in the War). It traces the battle route of 1775, leads past the Hartwell Tavern -where costumed guides re-enact Revolutionary scenes - and ends at Fiske Hill in Lexington. Lexington, itself, is a pretty town where colonial buildings nestle snugly round a common green.

Take the Maine Road, I-95N, to Kennebunkport – famous as the home of the presidential ‘Bush’ family. On route the ‘White Mountains’ of New Hampshire beckon and, if time permits, stop to admire their grand, rural beauty and to visit ‘Storyland’ (a Disney-like theme park), the ‘Alpine Slide’ (a super fast sled ride), Franconia Notch State Park and Flume Gorge (created way back when - by glaciers and lava).

We were bound for the legendary hospitality of the White Barn Inn - a boarding house of note since the 1800’s - and now a luxurious member of the Relais & Chateau Hotel chain.

Kennebunkport is a delightful haven for which every ‘States-side’ visitor should give thanks! The hotel, on Beach Avenue, is set in the heart of woodland trails and is a five-minute stroll from the beach. The guestrooms have been tastefully furnished in New England period style: some with four-posters - all with antiques and fresh flowers. The beds display an unusual touch: lying coyly on the covers are colourful, straw hats adorned with bright, floral hatbands.

The ‘complimentary list’ is long and includes a delicious breakfast, bicycles provided by the inn and ‘High Tea’ with patisseries - served to guests in the afternoons.

The restaurant - a sumptuously restored three-storey barn with picture windows and trailing flowers - is magnificent and reservations for popular anniversary dates need to be made more than a year in advance. The delicacies on offer include foie gras, chargrilled native salmon, ovenroasted quail and stuffed turkey with a ginger, cognac and coral butter sauce.

This is ‘outdoors’ country and the many activities include whale watching, deep-sea fishing, swimming, private yacht hire, cycling and endless walks along a stunning stretch of coastline.

Just opposite the gates of the White Barn Inn, set amidst acres of lawn and forest, stands the impressive St. Anthony’s Franciscan Monastery. (Tours are offered and accommodation is available - probably at a fraction of the price asked by its ‘diamond award’ neighbour across the street!)

Eight kilometres away, on the road to Wells and Ogunquit, is the ‘Rachel Carson National Wildlife Refuge’. Named for the renowned marine biologist and author of ‘The Silent Spring’, the sanctuary welcomes visitors for day safaris and seeks to protect the marshland and estuaries for migratory birds. (Ogunquit, itself, - named by the Abenati Indians and meaning ‘beautiful place by the sea’ – is a pretty seaside resort with good restaurants.)

We loved ‘The History Store’ in the lower village. This unusual shop sells anything and everything portraying America’s past. There are old maps, stamps and medallions, souvenir calendars, model soldiers, Civil War posters, patriotic puzzles, historic texts and national flags. In this wonderful treasure trove we learnt more about the tradition of Thanksgiving.

The feast dates back to 1621 - the year after the Puritans first arrived in Massachusetts (the state is named after the Massachusett Native American tribe and means ‘at the great hill’). After a harsh winter, during which nearly half of the Pilgrims died, they asked the neighbouring Indians for help and were taught how to plant corn and other sustaining crops.

The following year, inspired by a bumper harvest, they ‘gave thanks’ and this has become a national tradition. The Thanksgiving meal is preceded by a pause to remember blessings received and still includes the dishes served at the first feast: roast turkey with cranberry sauce, potatoes and pumpkin pie.

Digesting our newfound knowledge, we strolled over the bridge to Dock Square - standing centre-stage in the scenic heart of Kennebunkport. This charming oasis is a symphony of white wood, manicured trees, New England architecture and fascinating boutiques. There are picket fences, blue and white boats moored in the Marina, and there is the ‘T-Shirt Shop’, the ‘Candle Shop’ and the festive ‘Christmas Shop’ - open all year round and simply shimmering with ornamentation.

The gracious Kennebunkport Inn – an elegant, late Victorian lady, will bid you a hearty welcome. This former sea captain’s home, surrounded by picturesque white clapboard mansions, is a stone’s throw away from both the waterfront and the Historic District. Be sure to make a dinner reservation here. In summer - dine on a terrace named ‘Martha’s Vineyard’ and in winter, capture the romantic flavour of a candle-lit meal in front of a welcoming fireplace in the grand dining-room.

On our last evening we dined at ‘Windows on the Water’, a sea-front restaurant reputedly patronised by George H. Bush. Both the ambience and the menu (which includes Lobster Caesar Salad, Bouillabaisse, and delicious Maine Crab) reflect inherent good taste.