Ten Must-Sees in Kingston, Jamaica by Judith Ritter

Kingston, Jamaica is edgy, intense and not the first place beach-crazy visitors to Jamaica head for, but for those interested in culture, history, authentic island food and, of course, nightlife, Kingston is a Mecca. Judith Ritter takes us to the 10 must-see’s in the Caribbean’s vibrant home of reggae.

Bob Marley Museum

There are several stops in Jamaica for Bob Marley pilgrims including The Bob Marley Museum in Kingston. Though perhaps a less compelling destination than his birthplace and childhood home in the mountains, a visit to the 19th century mansion where Marley once lived is interesting and a bit like stepping back decades in time.

In the courtyard outside the house, grizzled reggae warriors, once friends of the legend himself, loll around in a way they might have when Marley lived there. Inside, there is a collection of touching family photos and a display of the star’s clothing and awards. “Some people cry”, the tour guide explains, “when they see his bedroom and the beat up bicycle he used in his early career to peddle his records door to door.” Even more gripping are the bullet holes in a wall of the back of the house from an assassination attempt on Marley’s life.

Devon House

There are lots of good reasons to visit Devon House, one of the oldest homes in Jamaica. For local people the main reason is for the famous ice cream sold at a little stand on the mansion grounds. And while it’s true that on a steamy Kingston day the flavour of ginger-pineapple, sorrel and even stout ice cream can trump a lesson in the rich history of Jamaica, the mansion itself is worth wandering around.

Built in 1881 for George Steibel, Jamaica’s first Black millionaire and noted philanthropist, the house is full of antiques. Highlights are the ballroom’s original pale green and white Wedgwood ceiling, the game room’s ingenious Victorian envelope card table and the stunning handcarved and mirrored wardrobe in the master bedroom. For those who are lukewarm to old things, just pack a lunch, picnic on the grounds and listen to the nightingales and turtledoves. 

Port Royal

There’s only one fort left standing in Port Royal, once called the “wickedest city in the world”. Now just a little fishing village in the Kingston environs, more than 300 years ago Port Royal was fashionable, wealthy, decadent and home to “Brethren of the Sea”, pirates and buccaneers. Today all that’s left to see of its salty history is Fort Charles, a stone structure with its hand cut beams and few remaining gun emplacements where the likes of Horatio Nelson was posted.

A two-room museum on the premises houses an impressive collection of swords, cannonballs, brass belt buckles and buttons. Gunfire blasts from the firing range of an adjacent actual military base add a soupçon of immediacy to the once mighty British fort charged with the job of guarding the Empire’s holdings in the New World.

Nightlife

Partying in Kingston is not for the faint-hearted. “Late and loud” are the operant words. The area for clubs is Knutsford Road, a long strip of shops and banks during the day and raucous party central well after dark. For the music of young local reggae artists check out Quad and Asylum, part of a warren of clubs on the famous street. If the dancing and decibels get too intense, escape to a more sedate jazz café on the first floor of the club complex. Visitors who want to go totally local can make their way to a “dancehall session”, a gritty, sexy ad hoc outdoor party held in a different place each night of the week.

Hottest nights seem to be “Bembe Thursdays” on Upper Constant Spring Road opposite Princeville Plaza and “Passa Passa Wednesdays” on Spanishtown Road near Tivoli.  Live bands, startling fashion and open fires cooking up lots of jerk and other local foods. No session gets off the ground until after midnight, and all keep on going until dawn. A minor cautionary note for the conservative, traditional decorum is in short supply.

Blue Mountains

In sharp contrast to the intensity of Kingston, just minutes way north on Old Hope Road, the city drops away, the air is cooler, and mango, povi povi and Poinciana trees hug the sides of the winding road up to Jamaica’s Blue Mountains. Soaring 2300 metres over the city, the mountains are not only a lush landscape of fiery flamboyant and delicate giant bamboo, but also a destination for coffee lovers who want to see how their precious Blue Mountain coffee beans are grown.

At the 200-year-old Craighton Estate coffee plantation, guide Alton Bedward Jr. takes visitors up the mountainside to see the fruit of heritage coffee seeds still grown in a traditional way. A stop for lunch at the elegant Strawberry Hill Resort on the way down means five star food and also a chance for celebrity sightings of star power guests such as Bono, Grace Jones or Naomi Campbell

Market

Check out the Papine and Coronation markets where piles of golden June plums, mangos, papaya and famously hot scotch bonnet peppers are stacked high and elderly women who have hauled their produce in from the countryside are happy to give you recipes for steamed fish and red bean soup along with your purchases. More prosaic offerings are running shoes, knitted Rastafarian caps and reggae cd’s.
Coronation Market is just off West Parade Road, Downtown Kingston

National Gallery

Kingston is the cultural centre of Jamaica and worth a visit for its stunning art museum alone. The collection ranges from artifacts from the Taino (aboriginal people of Caribbean) to energetic works of contemporary Jamaican artists.

The monumental sculpture of Edna Manley celebrates the strength of Jamaican women and the profoundly intuitive works of visionary artists such as Kapo (Mallica Reynolds) impart the intensity of spirituality in Jamaican culture. Especially noteworthy is a collection of fanciful and colourful musical instruments merging Jamaica’s musical and visual arts.

Cricket Shrine

Among cricket aficionados Kingston’s Sabina Park is legendary. Those in the know on the subject of the “game of British gentlemen” still wax nostalgic when speaking of a 1930 match when England's Andy Sandham scored 325 against the West Indies or when, in 1958, Gary Sobers scored 365 runs against Pakistan.

In the old days rum bottles in the stands were de rigueur, but today in the recently renovated stadium, cricket goers will have to be content with bottles of Red Stripe to wash down Jamaica patties, all to the tune of live artists playing music and dancing under the scoreboard.

Roadside Gourmet

Some of Kingston’s best food is along the roadsides in little jury-rigged kiosks. The best “roast fish” is found on the grill at the Washington Boulevard Fish Hut just across from the Boulevard Baptist Church. Owners Denise Edwards and Paulette Murray blast old R and B and cook up local favorites served with fresh squeezed vegetable and fruit juices. Another secret spot for local food is Marsha’s Crabground on the southwest side of Heroes Circle. The place is just a clutter of grills made of tire rims, and old car seats under a tin roof, Marsha’s fresh crabs, famous spicy roast yam and salt fish, and chicken foot and cow skin stew for the adventurous keeps the crowds coming.

Tuff Gong Studio Tour

Founded by Bob Marley, the legacy studio is still up and running and not only recording the talented Marley offspring Damien and Ziggy but industry honchas such as Chaka Kahn and Roberta Flack have also laid down tracks there. The tour takes visitors through the studio itself where fervent fans can see the same mixing board with which superstar Marley recorded hits such as “No Woman No Cry”. The visit continues through a mastering room, stamper room and the pressing plant where it is still possible to see how vinyl records are made.