Ten Great Far-Flung Hideaways by Cynthia Rosenfeld
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Picture a happy couple, relaxed and barefoot, perhaps some sand between the toes, wandering along the sun kissed shore or stretched out under twin palm trees. Fast forward a few hours to a candlelit table set for two under the stars and a gourmet meal of the freshest catch. Think ahead to the next day, unfurling just as the last, only perhaps with a morning trek through rice terraces or a dive with Technicolor marine life. Whatever your plans for today, perhaps tomorrow’s should include a visit to one of these ten luxury hideaways in far-flung destinations where all of the above awaits.
1. Qualia, Hamilton Island
Get lost on a bushwalk or explore deserted beaches by helicopter before returning to one of sixty indigenous timber and slate villas with floor to ceiling windows that confer turquoise Coral Sea panoramas at Qualia, a new resort on Hamilton Island. Long a favorite getaway for the Sydney set, Hamilton is easily accessible by 90 minute regularly scheduled flights from Sydney but until now the most famous of the Whitsunday Islands lacked truly world class accommodations. The unfamiliar name is a Latin derivation that refers to a collection of sensory experiences, like the calming vibe created by gentle winds that sweep across 30 lush acres blanketed in intoxicating eucalyptus, frangipani and gardenias, best explored by the electric golf cart that comes with each villa.
Qualia’s adults only policy ensure maximum serenity while guests dine on modern Oz cuisine accompanied by fine Australian wines from the Hunter Valley and Margaret River. Non-motorized water sports are included in the room rate but serious divers will want to add at least one underwater exploration along the Great Barrier Reef while others may prefer to spend their time in the bijou spa. Ancient Bularri Yarrul stones are pressed gently along the body’s meridians during the signature hot stone massage or try a chakra-therapy session incorporating Australian essential oils. Additional facilities available to guests include the Roman baths, an invigorating Swiss shower and open air yoga and meditation pavilion overlooking the azure waters and surrounding isles.
2. Amara Sanctuary, Singapore
Singaporeans used to explain the neighboring island of Sentosa was an acronym for “So Expensive and Nothing To See” because the island, accessible by cable car and toll bridge mostly attracted families bound for Underwater World theme park. Sentosa has stealthily evolved, opening groovy spots like the sand floor, beach front bar KM8 and stylish al fresco dining options including the highly rated il Lido, rightly famous for its sea urchin spaghetti. Adventurous spa aficionados will get a kick out of Fish Reflexology, where Turkish Garra rufa fish nibble dead skin off the soles of the feet.
Those smart enough to make a weekend of their Sentosa detour should check into one of the twenty colonial inspired suites (note the original boot sole cleaners outside each door) at Amara Sanctuary, a 121-guestroom retreat converted from World War II British military barracks. Dark wood panelled standard guestrooms do feel somewhat urban but a glance out the floor to ceiling window reveals tropical jungle and panoramic views of the South China Sea.
In the main building, a rooftop pool overlooks Singapore’s port, one of the world’s busiest. Find even more relaxation at the jungle pool, shaded by substantial palm fronds. Six villas have their own pool, outdoor bath and a private fruit garden. Nearby, an on site air raid shelter actually used during the 1941 Japanese invasion has been repurposed as wine cellar. Century old trees were protected during construction so the sound of singing birds permeates the resort’s verdant paths that wind around the circular all glass wedding chapel and over to Sibon, the 13-seat Japanese skewer bar housed in the former army chapel. Next year, Sentosa welcomes its poshest tenant yet when Capella Singapore opens. Sir Norman Foster’s first hotel project in the Far East consists of two colonial buildings restored and encircled by a 110-room urban retreat where rooms rates are expected to be Singapore’s priciest and each suite comes butler equipped.
3. Gayana Eco Resort, Borneo
Jungle sounds harmonize with the South China Sea as it laps beneath the over water villas at Malaysia’s Gayana Eco Resort in Tunku Adbul Rahman National Park outside Kota Kinabalu. High thread count sheets, organic bath products, and sunrise views of Mount Kinabalu, Southeast Asia’s tallest peak, are among the hotel’s star qualities but its lush location on the largest of five islands that comprise the marine sanctuary that allows guests to participate in the cutting edge science projects like endangered giant clam propagation and coral rehabilitation carried out at the resort’s Marine Ecology Research Centre.
Touch tank visits, turtle care and coral planting dives are among the activities that take full advantage of Borneo’s pristine natural environment without undermining its precarious balance. Couples who like to dive together can take with them a newly grown coral from the Centre to plant on the resort’s new reef or dive deeper together into the lagoon to explore a sunken wreck. Come back up in time for dinner at Alu Alu, an over water seafood restaurant featuring 20 tanks of coral trout, groupers, prawns and lobsters. Guests select seafood and then a preferred cooking style plus sauces. The Chinese chefs are also masters with chicken, beef, and vegetarian options. Back in the guestrooms, expansive balconies offer direct access into the sea for those who enjoy swimming under the stars or as the sun rises.
4. Desert Palm Resort, Dubai
Host of the Cartier International Dubai Polo Challenge, Desert Palm wows from first sight as lush polo fields emerge from a dramatic desert landscape. Only fifteen minutes drive from the airport, Dubai’s latest escape is unexpectedly tropical and anything but urban. Palm trees surround the twenty-four guest suites and pool villas all with seriously powerful air-conditioning, private bar and entertainment centre plus scrumptious REN amenities from the U.K. Splurge on the Villa Layali, the two-bedroom presidential compound surrounded by colossal palms.
The villa itself was constructed from Jordanian stone and both bedrooms feature a private courtyard garden. Watch polo chukkas during the day then host sundowners on the private rooftop terrace. Gourmet meals can be arranged among the property’s 100-year-old olive trees or in a secluded citrus grove. Adrenalin junkies in particular will enjoy this destination for its extensive menu of adventurous options, from scuba diving in the Arabian Gulf to sky diving, learning to fly a micro-light plane, four wheel drive desert safaris and hot air balloon tours. Travellers who prefer to keep both feet on the ground can partake of the resort’s cultural and shopping tours to the ancient spice market or gold souk in search of sparkling souvenirs.
5. Alila Cha Am, Bangkok
The King of Thailand escapes to his summer palace between Hua Hin and Cha Am, two neighbouring beach towns on the Gulf of Thailand three hours drive from Bangkok. While the former has long been a favorite of Thai royals, in the once sleepy fishing village of Cha Am Thai architect Duangrit Bunnag recently completed his most stunning, innovative work on Alila Cha Am, a romantic beachfront resort with stark public spaces and minimalist interiors that lack none of the creature comforts required to unwind. Guests who arrive after dark can expect one seriously warm greeting from the giant fireball set off on command adjacent to the elevated lobby.
72 guestrooms are housed in six wood and glass clad blocks but rooms don’t feel austere thanks to some of Asia’s most memorable beds that closely approximate sleeping on clouds and charming balconies that overlook dense palm fronds. Tech savvy travellers will revel in the Apple TV which works like an Ipod while others will want to play under the 12-foot high rain Dornbracht rain shower with Alila’s quickly addictive organic bath products like the champaca mandarin body butter and coffee-coconut mud scrub.
Seek out more serious healing in the spa where the Alila Signature Massage blends the three traditions of Balinese, Thai and Swedish plus aromatherapy. Therapists begin by running well trained hands across the whole body to establish a deeper connection that remains throughout these ninety minutes of bliss. Anyone prone to mosquito bites would do well to request the spearmint, patchouli and lime blend, intoxicating to humans but repellent to the zinging critters.
Even spa goers who typically avoid Thai massage should try the Taste of Thailand, a 50 minute invigoration without the often uncomfortable pretzel positions. Linger over guava or lemongrass sorbet in the sunlit relaxation room before heading back to the beach or venture further off property by selecting an activity off the Experience Menu such as golf, mountain biking or a tour of the morning market. Return for delectable lunches of the quirky do-it-yourself chef salad at the upper level Clouds Loft, ideal for appreciating the expansive Gulf of Thailand views. Executive chef Joel Wilkinson brings his health conscious culinary talents honed at Antigua’s famous Jumby Bay resort to dishes that range from funky vegetarian pizzas to authentic spicy Thai and grilled local catch. Work it off thanks to the rotating schedule of yoga, mediation and tai chi on the sand.
6. At Niman Conceptual Home, Chiang Mai
While tourists flock to north Thailand for trekking and elephants, it is becoming increasingly chic to hide out in the middle of Chiang Mai. Just off the city’s hippest shopping street, Nimmanhaemin Road an intimate eight room urban retreat called At Niman Conceptual Home creates the laidback vibe of a Moroccan riad with inviting cushions covered in Oriental textiles scattered around a bijou pool. Owner and designer Rachen Inthawong insists he was more inspired by the Himalayas though Burmese antiques judiciously accent each unique interior space where platform or four poster beds made with high quality sheets are topped by inviting duvets.
All eight rooms have been named for women and decorated thematically: In Kumari, named after the young Nepalese girl believed to be a goddess reincarnate, the designer installed Indian carved arch doors and decorated with ornate door locks. Plenty more lounging space crops up throughout the four-story building on an otherwise residential street. The highly commendable staff goes beyond their duties to make guests feel at home, learning names quickly and making spot on suggestions in the al fresco second story café where the sticky rice pizza or capellini with spicy Chiang Mai sausage are among the notable fusion fare.
Rooftop views of Doi Suthep, a verdant mountain considered sacred among Thais, are as stunning as actually hiking in the surrounding hills. Urban trekkers may prefer to head for the chic boutiques nearby like Srisanpanmai (6 Soi 1 Nimmanhaemin Road) an ethnic emporium filled with well worn sarongs and traditional Thai pillow squares. Up the street, Silver Birch (28 Soi 1 Nimmanhaemin Road) is a fantasyland of hand carved toys that could be mistaken for Gepetto’s workshop while nearby at Gerard Collection (6/23-24 Nimmanhaemin Road) walls are lined with woven bamboo bags sporting buffalo horn handles or leather trim. Back at the hotel, dinner beckons at the in house restaurant with the amusing name Le Muang de Cuisine Snob serves Northern Thai fare that can be made less spicy for delicate palates.
7. Mai Chau Lodge
Vietnam has lagged Thailand in comfortable retreats but the formerly communist state boasts an ever increasing number of impressive new addresses like the quaint Mai Chau Lodge. A scenic three hour drive southwest from Hanoi winds through rice paddy plains into the highlands to Mai Chau village, the longtime home of multiple ethnic minorities and now an intimate 16 room roadside lodge that comfortably accommodates international travellers in search of Vietnam’s diverse cultural heritage. A sleepy, less trampled alternative to Sapa or Halong Bay, two perennially popular scenic spots on the typical North Vietnam itinerary, Mai Chau boasts several small weekly markets where White Tai, Hmong, Dao and other ornately clad minority women shop for richly embroidered frocks and trade gossip over pho, the popular Vietnamese noodle soup.
Regularly scheduled dance performances back at the lodge and a well stocked boutique bring the authenticity in house, as do vibrant textiles in the guestrooms also notable for well stocked mini-bars, balconies, powerful showers and televisions for those who don’t want to completely disconnect. The lack of in room internet will be a plus to some but those who can’t entirely disconnect can log on at two computers on the ground floor. Village walks or bicycle tours take in lotus ponds, weavers at work and stilt houses build of wood.
Unwind in the free form pool, indoor Jacuzzi or with a steam and sauna, all impressive amenities so far from the city. Complimentary bottles of indigenous rice wine take the edge off winter’s chill and the all local staff will charm with their sincere smiles even when language barriers arise. They keep the rooms spotless and work hard to please. When the weather is good, the Hmong market 45 minutes further up along snaky mountain passes makes an interesting excursion but when it rains, stay put to avoid unnecessary heart palpitations and harrowing landslides. Instead, burrow into the nearby Mo Luong Cave, a narrow grotto leading to pristine waters or snack on sticky rice stuffed into bamboo shoots that makes a delicious treat. Eco-loving couples will especially enjoy the two lake villas constructed of organic materials that prove eco-friendly can be seriously sexy.
8. Evason Hideaway & Six Senses Spa, Ninh Van Bay
Considerably more luxurious but less authentically Vietnamese is the Six Senses Hideaway Ninh Van Bay where the natural elegance of organic fabrics and coconut fixtures accessorize fifty-five thatched roof huts set around coral rich Ninh Van Bay off the mainland village of Nha Trang in central Vietnam.
Upper floors are simply outfitted with rustic wooden dining sets and pillow strewn daybeds, ideal for sunsets and stargazing. Downstairs a mosquito net cocoons the funky bamboo bed made with untreated cotton sheets and each guest’s personal selection off an extensive pillow menu featuring ergonomic and herbal options. The substantial open-air bathroom is a standout: the double-headed outdoor shower is accessed by charming tree-stump footpath and a deep barrel-sided soak tub makes for a memorable splash. Sea-facing private plunge pools eliminate the need to venture far.
Of the five Water Villas, Number 5 offers the maximum privacy and can only be reached by boat. Scuba excursions to some of Vietnam's best dive sites plus jungle walks, a waterfall safari and cultural tours to nearby village markets and the historic Cham temples of Dalat make the Hideaway like sleep away camp for grown-ups, albeit one with a French chef and Six Senses spa where the traditional Vietnamese massage featuring warmed suction cups placed on the back is an exotic encounter not to be missed.
9. Amanusa, Bali
Though Australian architect Kerry Hill completed Amanusa meaning “peaceful isle” in Bali’s Nusa Dua on the eastern Bukit Peninsula in 1990, the minimalist thirty-five suite resort looks completely modern today. Hill made use of indigenous woods and stone then topped the 35 elegant villas with traditional thatched roofs. Four poster beds and private plunge pools on each villa’s roomy patio create the kind of relaxed intimacy often unavailable in busy everyday lives. In the open plan bathrooms with his and hers sinks, deep soak bathtubs are set against glass walls beyond which lush palm fronds sway, tropical flowers blossom and frogs hop about.
A two minute buggy ride takes Amanusa guests to Bali Golf and Country Club, ranked by Fortune Magazine as one of Asia's top five courses. Golfers should sign up for the Amanusa Golf Experience which includes a complimentary round of golf for two on the club’s 18-hole course that combines tropical vegetation and coconut groves with views of the azure sea. Though Amanusa is not on the beach there’s a private beach club with cozy cabanas a quick shuttle ride away, on a strip of sand that longtime Bali residents insist is one of the island’s finest.
Make time in between fine Italian meals and relaxing Swedish or Balinese massages to participate in Amanusa’s turtle conservation project managed by Turtle Bali, a local non-profit committed to saving the endangered sea animals. The simple, childlike thrill of releasing these tiny black olive Ridgeley turtles into the sea is an unexpectedly emotional and bonding activity.
10. Four Seasons Sayan
The lush palm jungle that rises up from the holy Ayung River as it whooshes through central Bali is home to another favourite Bali hideaway, Four Seasons Sayan . A coconut’s throw from the vibrant artistic community of Ubud, guests cross a dramatic teak foot bridge high above an elliptical lotus pond as they ogle the palm dense, rice terraced environment.
After a refreshing welcome drink at the panoramic Jati Bar, descend to one of the serene resort’s 18 one and two level suites with teak floors and cathedral windows with palm frond views. These spacious quarters offer the convenience of speedy spa and dining access. Otherwise spoil each other silly inside one of 42 ingeniously camouflaged villas strategically hidden along the verdant valley where dragonflies skim the private plunge pools and bold bamboo stalks soar towards the cerulean sky.
The flowing waters of Bali’s Ayung River provide natural acoustics but for traditional gamelan sounds plus Balinese shadow puppetry and museum quality collectibles, head into Ubud where colorful boutiques cram the meandering lanes. One of the best, Threads of Life (Jalan Kajeng 24, Ubud) is a fair trade non-profit enterprise that promotes women’s empowerment and sustainable development through traditional Balinese weaving known as ikat. Also check out the much buzzed about new Jean Francois Fichot gallery (Jalan Suweta 6, Ubud). The French jeweller has been living in Ubud for over 30 years and is already known to guests of Bali’s finest hotels that stock his original bling from sterling silver lotus flower earrings with chalcedony teardrops to 18K gold rings set with South Sea pearls and emeralds. Antique aficionados should make a beeline for Macan Tidur (Monkey Forest Road, Ubud). The name means ‘sleeping tiger’ but this collection is a wake up call to anyone seeking to understand Indonesia’s rich artistic heritage, from Irian Jaya bone and fossil necklaces to Cirebon gilded masks with haunting visages from North Java plus rooms piled high with one-of-a-kind textiles.
Almost any visit to Bali, however short, will coincide with one of Hinduism’s numerous holidays. Back at Four Seasons Sayan, rise in time to follow Balinese ladies of Sayan in their finest lace blouses called kebaya and men sporting headdresses to symbolize the gods as they parade towards the staff’s own temple, offerings in hand. Guests rarely visit this mother temple, cosseted by verdant foliage at the furthest right corner of the resort’s eighteen terraced acres yet Balinese believe ultimate control of all forces coming down river rests within its ornately carved walls.
Every morning, guided treks through this terraced landscape introduce an agrarian life while the award winning spa offers unabashedly sybaritic luxuries like traditional Javanese herbal scrubs. Food lovers will relish a day’s instruction in Balinese cooking that begins in the kaleidoscopic Gianyar fruit and vegetable market 20 minutes away by car before returning to the resort’s garden where lemongrass, tamarind, chilies, guava and rambutans flourish.
Learn to prepare indigenous favourites like pepes ikan, banana leaf wrapped butterfish and Babi Guling, spicy roast suckling pig or just reserve a table at the weekly Rice Fiesta at the Ayung Terrace restaurant featuring the staple grain in its four sacred colors, culminating in Bubuh Injin, a sweet and sticky black rice pudding believed by Balinese to be a natural sleep aid, though most guests find themselves lulled into dreams by the cascading Ayung River.