Teeing Off in Wine Country: a Guide to the Best Golf Courses in Margaret River by Campbell Jefferys

For those of us who have batted it around on an over-used and unloved city course, impatiently waiting for the lads hacking luminous balls from bush to bush with rentals clubs, nothing beats the solitude, quiet and lush greenery of a country golf course. Out here, even the kangaroos move languidly, in no hurry, and a kookaburra's laugh sounds like a slow playing record.

No tee time required, no waiting around for a group of two or three with which you must make a foursome, no need to play fast because of the group behind. Most days, on the public courses in the Margaret River wine region in the south west of Western Australia, you can stroll down to the first tee and play on your own.

Apart from the new development Dunsborough Lakes, where backyard's line the fairways and any wayward hook or slice will require an abject apology and perhaps an insurance claim, the area is not known for golf. Down south, it's about waves and wine. A shame, really, because each town in the region has a vacant 18 holes that deserves relaxed exploration.

From the wildlife-populated Busselton Golf Club to the sand greens way down in Augusta, golfers to this region are rewarded with broad fairways, big greens and, challengingly, sandy rough and strong sea breezes. Best to play in the morning and reward yourself with lunch at a nearby winery before the breeze picks up.

The relative anonymity of golf in this region makes it also good for families and children. While some clubs do impose a dress code (collared shirts, no thongs, perhaps no shorts), the lack of crowding on the course make it possible for kids to play, while observing rules and conduct, without being intimidated and bullied by fast playing groups from behind.

It also means there's time to forage in the bush for a lost ball and to attempt to stare down the big male kangaroo whose tail has encircled your favourite Titleist. Golf should be a leisurely sport; a good walk not spoiled but enhanced by the peace and beauty of the surroundings. 

Busselton Golf Club

Two and half hours from Perth, this sleepy coastal hamlet boasts a two kilometre jetty, the longest wooden structure in the southern hemisphere and little else. South of town, there is a string of camps under the banner of every religion known while a few kilometres inland, there is an empty car park, save for the odd dirt-splattered ute baring a local licence plate, and 18 challenging and well-cared for holes.

As the south-west gets more rain and has a milder climate than Perth and the rest of the state, down here all green colours come in darker, deeper shades. The trees grow higher too, and their branches reach over the fairways like the arms of a goalkeeper, ready to bat your ball to the ground. The greens are mostly soft and slick, and dusted with sand; go for the flag only if you're confident of your backspin. 

Busselton is flat, with narrow fairways that reward straight, consistent driving. If you're strong off the tee, half the battle is won. Stray left or right, and the best solution may be to pitch out onto the fairway and start again. There's more rain here but don't expect the rough to be solid ground, nor for there to be gaps between the tangle of trees. It's sandy and littered with sticks and leaves. So use a well-polished white ball or something luminous because when the sun catches those leaves, they all look shiny and white.

It's a long course (carts available for hire), with all par 3s over 150m and a handful of par 4s pushing 400m. Stay out of the few bunkers as the sand is firm to say the least, while there is basically no water to speak of, except for the drinking taps scattered around the course.

Visitors with handicaps are welcome to join in club events, which take place on weekends and close the course until around 3:30pm. With daylight saving a recent introduction, it's possible to head out late in the afternoon and play 18 holes, wind permitting. And even in peak holiday periods, as most visitors to the region are drawn by other attractions, the course remains relatively empty.

Dunsborough Lakes

A recent addition to this famous holiday town, the Lakes is a championship course well within the reach of the weekend warrior ($40 for 18 holes). For the affordable price, little is lost for quality, and amazingly, the course is walking distance from the town centre.

Members, who live in the many houses of this sub-division, their backyards jutting onto fairways, tees and greens, often start on the hole nearest to their back gate; some even have their own carts in the drive. If they're barbecuing , they'll raise a hand in greeting as you stroll past and will wish you an enjoyable round. 

The course is long and undulating, and twists through the expanse of the sub-division, meaning there's more than one road to cross but fortunately none to hit over. Because the course is so spread out, seeing other golfers can be rare. Thus, the course becomes your own, even in holiday periods. The fairways and greens are in immaculate condition, the benefit of having residents investing in the sub-division.

While it is long, especially the back nine with its three par 5s, it's not particularly challenging. Fairways are easy to hit while there isn't too much sand. Many of the trees are still young and don't provide obstruction or hazard, and that makes the rough manageable; a missed fairway doesn't mean the green can't be hit. The main hazard is water, with some large expanses on half the holes and the odd creek bordering the fairway. Kangaroos hang around these holes, lounging in the shade and bending down to drink.

It all adds up to a feeling of playing in someone's backyard. The clubhouse is a popular tavern with a large patio and even those who haven't been on the links congregate here. The atmosphere is welcoming and informal, a rare thing on such a high quality course. 

Margaret River Golf Club

There would be few courses in the world where, in the car park, golf clubs share trunk and tray space with surfboards. On the road to famous surf beach Prevelly Park, the Margaret River Golf Club is a country golfer's dream.

Casual yet dignified, tucked away yet hospitable, demanding yet conquerable, they come from all over the region to stroll these beloved links and to gather in the centrally located clubhouse, the heart of the club; many holes tee off and lead down to it so you can always hear conversation and laughter, and smell the barbecue. 

And best of all, it is a course wholly without pretension. No need to feel self-conscious on the first tee, nor to feel embarrassed if a drive is strayed. You'll find no snub-nosed provincial superiority here, and visitors are encouraged to join in club events. Children are welcome, provided rules are observed. Ah, those rules. Margaret River has some good ones, such as taking drops from fairway divots and kangaroo scrapings, and enforcing a 2 stroke penalty for mobile phone use.

The course is tucked away in bushland, mostly sheltered from the sea breezes, and full of wildlife. There's an uncanny soundlessness here; on the tenth tee, you can hear the frogs croaking from the pond next to the pro shop. It has a great layout, especially the back nine with its consecutive par 5s and hilly, up and down fairways. The course would benefit from more water, to harden the rough to the tree line, but the fairways and greens are in top condition. They say Margaret River is all about wine and waves, but this little gem should be added to that list. 

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