A Tale of Four Cities by Pelu Awofeso

What’s a night in Nigeria like? Barbaric? Boisterous? Don’t look to the Consulates for an answer. Chances are — like the British Consulate has done of late — that they will come up with a Caveat: “Don’t even think of going there!” And perhaps add that that part of Africa is the worse destination a tourist could end up in! To be fair, that’s bogus. In essence, taste the pudding, then decide.

Nigeria’s politics and economy are in serious need of a rescue no doubt. Her masses do not — and will not — argue the fact; but one thing they would also love the rest of the critical world to know is that day or dark a great deal of fun and revelry go on, notwithstanding the sad state of things. No anxiety, no mugging.

Truth is, the Nigerian may ruffle his compatriot, but he is a beam of hospitality with the tourist, particularly if white. Some scenarios: Put a local and an expatriate behind two different steering wheels and on the road to anywhere; three in five police checks, the citizen must pull over to show his vehicle documents. The other man drives on. Put the same pair, but this time of journalists, at the gate to an august function. It matters not a penny if the Nigerian claims he’s a pressman, the visiting journalist gets attended to first. He only has to say: “Hi. I write for The Sun (or whatever name comes to mind).” Lastly, get the two to a bar/club, put them at the same table and watch whom the bartender services first, as well as who gets the most courtesy. You can’t have guessed wrongly. The expatriate.

It’s the last Friday night in February. Motherlan’, a preferred rendezvous on Opebi road in Lagos, throbs with an infectious restlessness. People, white and black, mature students among them, queue up holding their 500 Naira tickets. They can hardly stand the sweet stampede at the entrance, all so just to watch the singing star Lagbaja perform.

Already they can hear the African melody playing on the inside. In the parking space outside are some of the best cars (from Benz to Bora) that roam the streets by day, belonging to both Nigerians and Internationals. The place is jammed in effect, but private and regular security chaps minimize the vehicular chaos. As if wanting to sound a contrast, Favourites, a fast foods, confectionary and ice cream joint, one of the hundreds of such outlets splashed all over the country, booms with the all too familiar beats of rap and hip-hop.

And, not too far off (on Salvation Road) is the Prestigious Niteshift Coliseum, the most tasteful around. Its proprietor, Ken Calebs Olumese proclaims, “It’s the best in Africa.” No wonder at the 15th Anniversary in February, it’s precinct was awash with some of the very influential personas Nigeria parades currently: aides of the sitting vice president, state administrators, media chiefs, entertainment bigwigs, and a bevy of gorgeously-dressed ladies. On this night Nel Oliver from the neighboring Republic of Benin has flown in to render his hit track ‘Baby Girl’.

Earlier home star, Alariwo, did his ‘Bojuboju Friend’. At intervals the in-house music presenters took over. Nigerians and non-Nigerians alike ordered from the assorted drinks on offer. Heads moved, feet stamped lightly, everyone was having the fun of their lives. And elsewhere in the metropolis, the elite Chinese-run Golden Gate restaurant (Kingsway Rd, Ikoyi) bubbled with its own crowd. The Iroko Band is there live fortnightly.

In Benin City, some 300km east of Lagos and the soul of the then renowned Benin Kingdom, commercial banks are joining bottling giants Guinness and Coca Cola to turn a previous ‘civil service’ town into an active center of commerce. Along with that has come a nocturnal vibrancy. Benin natives have responded to this economic leap with a spread of relaxation spots and clubs concentrated around the Exclusive GRA.

Motel Benin Plaza (Old Reservation Rd.) runs a club section, which opens every weeknight with special sessions on weekends, thronged by a horde of the resident and visiting expatriate community. A live band, variety of beverage and meals hold clubbers down. Security is good. The new “Hexagon” (Golf Course Rd.) is frequented by the nouvous riche and the ‘privacy’ minded; guests are searched before entry is granted. You needn’t then bother about the uncultured spoiling the fun. Hexagon is where the Guinness and bank hands prefer to hang out. Check out also the equally attractive Blue Edge Night club off the Airport Road. It has a dancing hall and its Friday evenings are special.

The cool upland region of Jos, Plateau State, in Nigeria’s Middle belt has a story similar to Benin’s: civil-service-to-business hotspot. With its reputation as a Holiday Center, Jos also has an inspiring development: some of its popular clubs and relaxation spots are foreign owned. Afrione Restaurant and Internet café (Ahmadu Bello way), established by white collaborators, has a simple, yet charming interior and opens daily from 10 am to 10 pm (more guests at dusk).

Asian-owned Sharazad dancing restaurant (Muritala Mohammed Rd.) opens 11am till 10.30pm; a disco-night holds on weekends and kicks off at midnight. VIBES nightclub is open on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays from 10pm. Fine-furniture Tamariska in an upstairs space is another good spot. This evening a group of 5 twenty-something Europeans are sipping and smoking while watching a UEFA match.

Port Harcourt in Nigeria’s south-south region (660km from the Lagos Airport) is where the bulk of the nation’s crude is exploited and has spawned a daily lifestyle comparable to Lagos — in cash flow, infrastructure and socials, courtesy multinational oil prospecting/ servicing giants: Shell, Chevron Texaco, Halliburton and Slumberger. With these have grown what may be Nigeria’s largest community of expatriate families. Their favorite is the Presidential hotel (Birabi Av.Rumuola). “It’s clear that they are quite pleased with the PH/ Nigerian environment,” observes one clubber at Nightbox (GRA Phase 2, King Perkule Av.) “Many of them — the Lebanese especially — end up engaged to their Nigerian heartthrobs. Somehow I think they just find it hard to let go.”

Tourists may also try out these other locations: Charlis (Aba Rd.); Baracuda (King Pekule Av.); Friends Calabash (by Waterline Junction); and Bootleggers (Gatehouse).

An alfresco regime is also fledging and spreading fast in these four cities and in a lot more others in Nigeria currently. In almost every nieghbourhood, there are open-air bars where people throng after the each day’s work. “They are closer home and we don’t have to stay out overnight,” explained Tom Onono in a busy Lagos street. Here, spiced barbeque and chilled beer are the norm. The discussions could touch on any topic from the economy, International news, Africa, Malaria to relationships, politics, IT and business. Music of course plays at the max.

“This is largely a mid-class affair,” a regular face at the Bambos (1st East Circular Rd.) in Benin City informs, where, as in Lagos, occasional performances by itinerant bands and jesters are a bonus.

West of Mines in Jos (Standard Road) and the Tarzan boat jetty in central Lagos are two notable alfresco joints worth any tourist’s time and where Makossa dance and music are a constant feature. “This place is so alive,” exclaims Maurice a Canadian who has come to Jos for the very first time. “I have yet to witness the fights and robberies I was warned about. Though I shall be leaving soon but I intend to be here (West of Mines) again.”

Not long ago a top official of the Nigerian Tourism Development Corporation (NTDC) informed a large gathering that Nigerian Embassies in the UK are having a battle attending to the Visa applications into Nigeria. “There are many on the ‘Waiting’ list,” she had said. “That alone tells us that Nigeria still remains a cherished stop in the itinerary of many thousands of tourists.”