Sweet Nothings in Barcelona by Rebecca Ford
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Balmes
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There’s no doubt about it – Barcelona is a bit of a minx: a city that seduces men and women alike. ‘Shopping,’ she whispers to me when I hear her name. ‘Shopping and,’ she pauses for a tantalising moment, ‘chocolate.’ Yet, as if by magic, what he hears is: ‘Football. Barca – one of the greatest teams in the world.’
Him and her heaven. It’s a Siren song that impossible to resist – and makes Barcelona a great choice for a romantic weekend. I make the bookings – taking a friend’s advice and sneakily checking that it’s a weekend when the footie team aren’t playing at home. Well, matches take place in the evening, and if he gave in to temptation it would ruin dinner-a-deux.
We’re staying at the 5 star Princess Sofia hotel, situated in the posh Pedralbes part of the city. It’s a modern, multi-storey hotel – and we’re in the exclusive Club area on the top, getting the use of the relaxing Club lounge where guests can help themselves to drinks and snacks throughout the day. We enjoy cheese and fruit while taking in the views of the city – which looks even glitzier than I’d imagined with twinkling, come hither lights.
That night we’re lazy and take a taxi into the city centre. We’re unfashionably early – no self respecting Spaniard seems to eat until at least 10pm, but we’re hungry and don’t care. We opt for Salero (Carrer de Rec 60), a sleek restaurant/bar in a former salt warehouse. Décor is white and light, there are Japanese influenced dishes, soft candles and a cool crowd.
The next day I’ve arranged for a guide – but a guide who’s also a personal shopper. Ha! Double whammy. He raises an eyebrow (I’d omitted to mention the shopping part till now). Two guides appear – B&W’s Carmen Bosch and Elena Wendt. Immaculately dressed and perfectly made-up, they meet us at the hotel with a personalised itinerary that combines sightseeing with shopping.
The Princess Sofia hotel is at the far end of the smart Avinguda Diagonal – home to names like Armani, Versace and DKNY. But Carmen and Elena have more distinctive stores in mind and start the tour at Vincon (no 96), on chic Passeig dei Grazia. It’s a contemporary homeware shop, housed in a 19th-century building. The goods are funky but the treasure is upstairs, where original features have been preserved - including an intricately carved wooden fireplace. A terrace, decorated with hand-painted tiles, looks onto the back of La Padrera. Designed in 1910 by Antonia Gaudi, Barcelona’s iconic architect, it’s a famously exuberant apartment block with undulating walls and intricate wrought-iron balconies.
Then it’s further along Passeig dei Grazia to exclusive Santa Eulalia (no 93, designer clothes, made to measure suits), and past the fantastical facade of Gaudi’s Casa Batllo: the rippling roof, adorned with his trademark mosaics, looks like a huge reptile, pierced by a cross-shaped chimney. It’s a representation of St Jordi (George) and the dragon. St Jordi, it turns out, is Catalonia’s patron saint and 23rd April in Barcelona is celebrated as a day for lovers. Women are presented with red roses – and give their men a book (a reminder of the fact that it’s also the date that both Shakespeare and Cervantes died).
Our tour continues to Loewe (no 35, more designer clothes, men’s tailoring, clients like Bruce Springsteen). It has a discreet VIP area - complete with champagne on ice. He looks impressed. Shopping not so bad eh? Then we’re whisked to the trendy El Born district, with its boutiques, bars, antique shops and – my favourite – a quirky Chocolate Museum housed in a former convent (C Comerc 36). Barcelona – thanks to its harbour, was the first city in Europe to be introduced to chocolate, in the early 16th-century. Museum exhibits include enormous chocolate sculptures – including one of Barcelona’s star player Ronaldinho, and a tasting area. We try a range of chocolates, including a dark one flavoured with black pepper (surprisingly good).
Our tour ends at the Santa Maria del Mar cathedral, a triumph of Catalan Gothic architecture with a majestic rose window. He hasn’t moaned once. Phew. After a late lunch at a nearby tapas bar, bustling little Taller de Tapas (C. d. l’Argenteria 51) we explore the atmospheric alleyways of the ancient Gothic Quarter. It’s the heart of historic Barcelona just off the lively main drag, La Rambla – an alfresco theatre of strolling pedestrians, market stalls and street performers.
Next day begins with a lazy breakfast in the Club lounge, after which it’s time for his and her’s treats: for me, a chocotherapy massage in the hotel’s spa, for him a trip to Barcelona FC . The stadium’s only a short distance from the hotel and they can arrange tours for you. He has a great time visiting the club’s museum, full of trophies, photographs and sporting memorabilia, and seeing everything from the VIP lounges to the dressing rooms. He even walks onto the famous pitch. Fascinating, I smile.
Afterwards, we hop on the Metro for a last stroll down La Rambla. At the bottom, a statue of Christopher Columbus points out to sea, yachts bob on the water and a cable car soars over the harbour. We look at each other and realise that we’ve fallen in love -with Barcelona. Minx.
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