Suite Dreams: Preciously Piedmont by Devanshi Mody
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Relais Villa Matilde
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When Hamlet told Ophelia, “Get thee to a nunnery,” he probably didn’t anticipate how very naughty nunneries and monasteries could become in modern times. Would you have thought that a 17th-century monastery could be transformed into a luxury abode, attracting the world’s who’s who? Check out these miraculous metamorphoses:
Relais San Maurizio:
Undoubtedly the crowning glory of Piedmont, it magically presides on the lofty hills of St Stefano Belbo, near Asti. I had almost given up hope of staying at the hotel (it seems to be always full), but my patience and perseverance were justly rewarded. Strangely enough, I was driven up to the hotel by the owners of the Ca Del Principe vinery, which I was visiting next door. They casually mentioned that their family, who descend from the Count of San Maurizio, once owned the property, “many, many years ago.”
The lovely thing about this hotel is that it is tastefully discreet, with no unabashed excess. A Medieval majesty traverses the many labyrinthine corridors, infiltrating the 31 rooms and suites. The baths, with their old-fashioned curtains, are especially lovely, but the bar area is perhaps the prettiest part of the property. The pool teeters tantalisingly over a terrace, with terrific views of vine-clad hills undulating below vast heavens. One is simply blown away.
Don’t do what I did - a breezy one-night stay. This is the sort of place you want to luxuriate in for a week at least. Ensure you make time for the hotel’s brand new spa, the first and only Salt Spa in Italy. The breakfasts will probably have you returning soon enough, too – there are wonderful cheeses, a selection of interesting yoghurts and honey, and the only all-butter croissants in Italy. Perhaps the best breakfast I’ve had this year.
Villa Beccaris:
For the most delicious breakfast room, nothing can quite rival the glass-encased, hilltop dining area at Villa Beccaris. You almost feel that you are sitting in a glass house, with the most astonishing views of Alba’s landscape.
The views from the pool and the terraces are no less enrapturing, while the inner courtyard terrace is rather sweet. The boutique property is faithfully furnished in traditional style, and exudes a sense of warmth and intimacy. The fanciest part of the hotel is perhaps the toilet outside the salon, which has black toilet paper. This serves more of an aesthetic than practical purpose (as anyone who has used it will tell you!)
Check into Villa Beccaris and you’re in for a heady experience. Jessica, perhaps the most efficient receptionist you will ever meet, organised a visit to Marquesi di Barolo for me (one of the region’s most famous vineyards). When I arrived at the vineyard’s restaurant, I was surprised to learn that they had already arranged a vegetarian meal for me. How did they know about my dietary restrictions? At breakfast, I mentioned to the coffee lady that I wouldn’t have the recommended ham, as I was a vegetarian. This information was relayed to Jessica, who ensured it was appropriately passed on. Impressive, that.
Casa Pavesi:
For a very different experience, head to Casa Pavesi - this villainously wonderful little number is perhaps Piedmont’s best kept secret. My love affair with Casa Pavesi began when I stumbled upon it en route to the Alba Truffle Auction at the Grinzane Castle. Surprisingly, nay shockingly, this little gem of a boutique hotel - which sits prettily right at the gates of the celebrated castle - is relatively unknown. Entering to have a quick look, I instantaneously found myself charmed by the red brick walls, wooden beams and antique furniture.
This beautifully restored traditional Piedmontese house has only a dozen individually decorated suites, and the salons and dining areas retain the feel of a private home. Views of vine-swept hills from the splendid terrace will leave you speechless. The well-heeled clientele includes the proprietors of some of Paris’s most famous addresses (like Café Armani, Flore and Stradda), as well as private jet-owning Russian tycoons and Brazilian billionaires.
A delightful ambiance reigns at the hotel; with Mr Grimaldi, the garrulous, gregarious, larger-than-life general manager ever the star of the show. For those with a taste for the exquisitely eccentric, head to Casa Pavesi – it isn’t a hotel, it’s an experience.