Streets Ahead: Pilsen, Chicago by Stephen Emms

"Stop The Gentrification" (‘Alto Al Desplazamiento’, by acclaimed Mexican artist Hector Duarte) reads the colourful mural, one of many lavishing buildings between the 16th and 18th streets in Pilsen, the most up-and-coming neighbourhood in Chicago. Yet what’s surprising is that it was painted back in 1994, when Pilsen, in the city’s Lower West Side – historically rather isolated – had been in economic decline for years.

There’s one man who can be blamed and praised in equal measures for the dreaded ‘G’ word. As far back as the 70s, John Podmajersky began converting old warehouses in East Pilsen into cheap studios for creatives.

“Old Podmajersky was a good guy,” says sculptor Kenneth Morrison. “I respect what he did by moving into a blighted neighbourhood and fixing up old buildings, claiming abandoned alleys and converting them into communal courtyards.” Now, however, it buzzes with mostly “white artsy types and a recent influx of yuppie bastards”, says another local artist Nat Ward. And it’s fair to say that the Podmajersky family, whilst effectively dominating the art scene, have won both friends and foes: reviving an area means raised rents, alas, causing some of the original artists to move away.

But then Pilsen’s history has always been characterized by transience. Named after the largest city in West Bohemia, its 19th-century Czech roots (best illustrated by St. Procopius Church and the Schoenhofen Brewery) gave way in the 1920s to an influx of Mexican Americans, and it was they who characterised the area – and still do – with murals advocating civil rights.

And it’s this prevalent Mexican culture, as well as the more recent galleries, that make a stroll along the 18th a genuine thrill. Every two or three storefronts is a Taqueria (family Mexican restaurant). Houses are painted bright colours or decorated with large plastic floral arrangements, whilst men in cowboy hats and shirts, or mariachis in elaborate outfits, play in the street as they make their way from one restaurant to another for weekend gigs.

“It's a very friendly place,” says Leeds-born musician Sally Timms, of cult band Mekons, who has lived in Chicago for 15 years. “There’s not too much of a clash emerging yet with the new younger population moving in, but that could change.”

And change it well might, if Pilsen’s artistic predecessor, nearby Wicker Park, a once run-down but now very gentrified neighbourhood boasting cocktail bars, boutiques and upmarket restaurants, is anything to go by.

Choices

Vespine

“Chicago has a structured and non-structured art scene,” says artist Derek Erdman. “Here people support renegade galleries but it's still a big enough city to have a respected official gallery scene.” Most East Pilsen galleries fall into the former category, including the acclaimed Vespine, which specializes in emerging artists.

Even more enjoyable is the Annual Artists' Open House in which a host of local bands perform and the whole community turns out to party.

OMD

Vintage stores abound in an area of few chains. Revolver (1524 W 18th St), a second hand record shop, is a must for those wishing to re-enact any High Fidelity moments (the movie was filmed in Pilsen, after all), but "most hip," according to locals, is OMD, which flogs designer garb, fragrances, and t-shirts by local designers Sharp Chicago, bearing unique emblems like ‘Kiss Me I’m Mexican.’

The National Museum of Mexican Art

Founded in 1982, NMMA is the nation's largest Latino arts institution and a vital component of Pilsen’s culture. Offering both permanent displays and temporary exhibits, don’t miss Mexicanidad: Our Past is Present, which explores the history of Mexico in five stages, as well as the tradition behind the murals in Pilsen. The museum is also the focus of the annual Day of the Dead festival, with a preceding exhibition each October, and also where the annual procession ends.

Cafe Jumping Bean on 18th

“Chicago’s most inviting coffee shop,” is what they say. And jumping is the right word as, with its orange walls, pink chairs and quirkily-painted tables, it’s not only eye-boggling but packed to the rafters. Sculptor Kenneth Morrison designed the space and built the counter – “for a year’s free coffee and bagels”, he says with a laugh.

Owners Eleazar and his sister Sylvia are also a great source of info about what’s going on in the neighbourhood, particularly amongst the Mexican artistic community. All that and monthly shows of local artists too.

Skylark

“My advice to a brave tourist in Pilsen,” says Nat Ward, “is to walk around the neighbourhood before sunset, wandering into any dive bar you see, then come back later to the ones where you get the warmest welcome.” But if that sounds too advanced level, one place you’ll slip right in with the black-jeaned, shaggy haired-hipster types is Skylark, a boho bar right at the southern edge of Pilsen and the gallery scene.

It’s a huge room with a 1930s bar on one side and booths on the other, not to mention seriously skilled bartenders (Erik Graf and Danno are “gods among men”, says regular Nat). The menu offers pub style burgers, ‘tater tots’ (hash browns) and specials such as leg of lamb or pan seared maki with mango rice. Crowded but fun.

May St. Cafe

Despite its simple interior, and BYOB policy, Chef Mario Santiago's ‘gourmet seasonal’ blend of American, Mexican and Puerto Rican has been earning rave reviews. Particularly recommended is the Pasta Diavolo, the brie-and-pear quesadillas, salmon with lemon butter and chipotle-tequila cream sauce, and pumpkin flan.

Head to 1103 West 18th street for the street vendors’ awesome elotes (corn on cob with mayonnaise, butter, crumbled chiuahua cheese and cayanne pepper) and diabolitos (layered tamarind drink that is so hot and salty and sweet).