South Africa on Horseback by Julie Miller

In South Africa they call it a ‘monkey’s wedding’ – the magical moment when the sun shines through falling rain. I turned in the saddle to gaze upon this glorious phenomenon. A shard of afternoon sunlight had pierced the storm clouds, bathing the verdant pasture and its dramatic escarpment backdrop in a warm golden glow. A vapour mist was softly falling, glistening on grassy husks, diamonds twinkling in the breeze; while across the inky sky, a double rainbow formed two perfect arches, a colourful decree announcing the passing of the storm.

The pioneer conservationist Clive Walker once commented, “The Waterberg is like an indelible ink. Once experienced, never to be erased.” There are few moments of pure perfection etched in my memory, but that stormy afternoon ride in the northern wilderness of South Africa is a permanent vision. At that moment, I believed I had found my paradise.

There is no better combination, in my mind, than magnificent scenery, good company and kind, willing horses. Add to that amazing, exotic wildlife – and you’ll begin to understand why South Africa is one of the world’s premiere riding destinations.

For visitors venturing into the Africa for the first time, South Africa is a great place to start – well-serviced, politically stable and accessible. For most tourists, it is also comparatively cheap, with a favourable exchange rate against most major currencies. Despite its relative urbanisation, the country’s main attractions lie beyond its cities – amazing scenery, world-class national parks, and of course the wild and wonderful animal life of the African plains.

For horseback riders, South Africa offers some wonderful equestrian opportunities, encapsulating the ‘Out of Africa’ experience. You can explore the wine trails of the Western Cape, trek the rugged passes of the Drakensberg Range, or ride the battlefields near Durban for an added historical dimension.

For a fascinating cultural experience, pony trekking in the inland kingdom of Lesotho – the ‘Kingdom in the Sky’ - provides a genuine insight into a traditional way of life. The Basotho are renowned as a nation of horsemen, and for generations, the surefooted Basotho pony has been used as transport in the rugged mountains. On these eco-treks, villagers provide the horses, guides and hut accommodation – your riding experience therefore contributes to the local economy.

In the remote northern province of Limpopo, the Waterberg Mountains offer breathtaking panoramas, the vast African plains stretching for miles across a boundless horizon. This rugged range runs for 150 kilometres east to west, covering around 14,500 kilometres. The name, Thaba Meetse in the local Sotho language, means ‘mountains of water’, referring to the diversity of habitats found in the area.

Here, space takes on new meaning – the open vistas overwhelm, liberate, inspire. This land, once a place of exile for troublesome politicians, is today a veritable horsey-heaven, offering some of the best riding in the Southern Hemisphere. Several highly regarded horse-riding establishments are based in this part of the world, and it has become a magnet for adventure-loving tourists from all over the world.

One of the main attractions for overseas visitors is, of course, the opportunity to ride amongst wild game. South Africa is ranked as the third most biologically diverse country in the world – the challenge is how to protect the environment while coping with the demands and needs of over 40 million citizens. Only 6% of South Africa is under formal protection, but an ever-increasing amount of land is being reclaimed as farmers recognise the commercial potential of stocking their properties with game.

Outside of the major national parks, much of South Africa’s game viewing is restricted to these private game reserves, where the presence of fences is a niggling reminder of human domination over nature. The animals might be indigenous, the habitats genuine – but there is never that overwhelming sense of freedom and scale that you experience in true wilderness such as Botswana’s Okavango Delta. You could call it a civilised view of the landscape, which may or may not be appealing to visiting tourists, depending on their expectations.

For the guests at Horizon Horseback Adventures, game viewing within a fenced enclosure cannot diminish the excitement of coming within metres of some of the most majestic creatures in the world. A horseback safari offers unparalleled game viewing – not only is it quieter and more intimate than a jeep safari, but the wild plains animals don’t seem to be afraid of the horse, accepting it as just another herd creature. Riders will be overwhelmed by the sight of a gangly giraffe bending in an awkward attempt to drink from a waterhole, or the flash of black and white as a zebra darts through scrub – experiences enriched by the sensual liberation of horse riding.

Horizon is based on the Triple B Ranch, one of the oldest family farms in the Waterberg Mountains. This working cattle ranch and crop farm offers 20,000 acres of flat riding country, including a private game reserve and a myriad of trails surrounding a beautiful hippo-filled dam. Beyond the property, they also have access to neighbouring game farms, as well as the nearby Lapalala Wilderness, a 18,000 hectare rhino sanctuary which is one of the last true wilderness areas of South Africa.

At Horizon, the emphasis is on horses and horsemanship. Many of its herd of honest Boerperds, Anglo-Arabs and Thoroughbreds have been reared, broken and schooled using natural ‘round pen reasoning’ techniques by Shane Dowinton, who runs Horizon with his English-born wife Laura. As well as the daily game safaris, guests are also encouraged to participate in other equestrian disciplines such as cross-country jumping, western games and polocrosse – fun activities which give this horse-riding holiday an extra dimension.

A personal desire to restore the Waterberg region to its pristine, naturally wild state is the motivation behind Equus, the longest-established horse safari company in South Africa. Owner Wendy Adams is a passionate naturalist with a genuine, contagious enthusiasm for every creature, great and small, and a deep love of the African landscape. Wendy recently moved her entire riding operation from a concession within the Lapalala Wilderness to her own patch of paradise, a 950 hectare property at the top of the Kransberg peaks, the southernmost escarpment of the Waterberg range.

While she may have lost the opportunity to ride amongst big game such as endangered black and white rhino, for Wendy, there is nothing more rewarding than owning her own land. Not only is it less stressful – the black rhino were volatile riding companions, to say the least! – but she now has direct control over decision-making and environmental change.

Her first mission was to tear down all the fences, creating a free-range environment for both her horses and the indigenous wildlife, which becomes more prolific every day as the animals become accustomed to the sight of horses and riders. There are daily sightings of kudu, reedbuck, duiker, warthog and hundreds of baboons. Fresh leopard and hyena spoors are regularly seen; and bird life is prolific, particularly near the central lodge overlooking a tranquil lily-pond. The largest colony of Cape Vultures in Africa breed in the nearby Marakele National Park and can often be seen hovering on thermals above the ridges on the reserve.

Equus also has traversing rights on over 4,500 hectares of neighbouring land, where guests can observe zebra, wilderbeest, impala and ostrich. With her neighbours’ support, Wendy’s goal is to work towards a local conservancy, a large protected area with no fenced boundaries, allowing game to wander without restrictions between properties. In the meantime, Wendy and her guests act as an anti-poaching patrol in the area, reporting on any unusual sightings or any animals in distress.

The Equus Reserve falls within the UNESCO Waterberg Biosphere Reserve which incorporates over 414,000 hectares in the Limpopo Province. There are 320 such designated biospheres around the world, which establish an ethic of responsible land management. The endeavour is to tread lightly on the earth, to live in harmony with the natural environment – a philosophy fully embraced and qualified at Equus.

It is not only the wild game which benefit from these gentle environmental practices. Wendy Adam’s 20-odd horses are arguably the happiest creatures in the world, sweet natured and enthusiastic with an unprecedented willingness to please. Her herd is a mix of Boerperd, Fresian, Arab and Warmblood crosses, all beautifully trained, forward-going and responsive. Riders are encouraged to ride English style in comfortable South African McClellan saddles. With magnificent open trails, the going can be fast, with delightful kilometre-long canters demanding a reasonably high standard of riding ability.

The Boerperd is a South African breed whose origins can be traced back to 1652, when the first horses arrived at the Cape of Good Hope from the Dutch East Indies. These horses, featuring Arab, Thoroughbred and Javanese pony bloodlines, became known as the Cape Horse, renowned for its hardiness and resistance to tick-borne disease. Some of these animals were important to Australia in1788, forming the root stock for the Australian Waler breed.

The Boerperd, as the Cape Horse came to be known, cemented its reputation during the military campaigns of the Boer War, when it was praised for its endurance and level-head behaviour during battles. Today, this stocky, sturdy little horse, with its hogged mane and rounded quarters, is a wonderful trail horse, reliable, sure-footed and unfazed by other creatures sharing its grazing lands.

To ride these honest creatures through an unspoilt African landscape is truly a journey of discovery. Every rock face and grove reveals a hidden treasure – a family of baboons, barking a raucous challenge; the pricked ears of a curious reedbuck, ready for flight; the exuberant display of a longtailed widow bird, flitting around a spreading acacia bush. Even the diligent efforts of a tiny dung-beetle intrigue as it hauls its smelly burden, making its crucial contribution to the African eco-system.

The highlight of any riding trek in the Waterberg, however, is the opportunity to simply pause and absorb the endless panorama. Under the shadow of the Kranz, the southernmost escarpment of the Equus Reserve, Africa lies before you – a vast patchwork of farmland and wilderness, an ever-changing kaleidoscope that encapsulates the complexity of this timeless land. This is Africa at its most majestic – silent, sentinel, austere – truly a landscape of literature and dreams.