Son Xotano by Jenny Pidgeon

Son Xotano is a gentle, charming place to stay – a traditional country house owned and run by grandfather-figure Pedro who potters around the place all day. Speak to him (in Spanish – his English is proficient but basic) and you will learn all sorts of things about the history and more recent events in the countryside and villages surrounding the rustic idyll of Son Xotano. It really is in the middle of nowhere – smack bang in the centre of the island, just a short drive from Palma but down a long bumpy track, passing through a lovely wood which is part of the large Xotano estate.

The yellowing façade of the large house is enchanting, with its traditional green shutters and shaded tables in the courtyard. There are two inviting sofas in a leafy alcove opposite, perfect for escaping the midday sun, and more seating around the side of the building with a huge barbecue for summer dining. In a money-raising move, the hotel regularly hosts lunches for large coach-groups who arrive, sweating, to enjoy a typical Mallorcan meal from the very competent resident chef. This invasion comes as a bit of a shock if you are lying by the adjacent pool, but they have done their best to screen off the pool with palm trees and most areas of the agriturismo remain strictly off-limits to the lunching visitors.

The pool is attractively surrounded by grass and dappled shade provides relief to pink German sunbathers. There is also a paddling pool here – Son Xotano is a great place for kids. They can run about safely in the huge grounds, there is a small crazy golf course, good opportunities for mountain biking and, best of all, a riding stables. Pedro used to be the President of the National Riding Assocation and still breeds Andalucian and Hispanic-Arabic horses. You can learn to ride in the school or take the horses out in the beautiful surrounding fields and woods. Pedro is proudly credited with re-introducing horse-and-traps to the Balearics, and Son Xotano has a number of wonderful traditional traps on which you can enjoy a relaxing tour around the local backwater villages.

Inside the house you will find cool tiled floors, high beamed ceilings and traditional Mallorcan furniture. The old wine-cellar has been transformed into a cosy restaurant with a fireplace in one corner for cold nights. The bedrooms are all different – some with bare stone walls, some white-washed in the typical island style, all with antique furniture so delicate looking it is certainly more for show than for sitting on. The best room is the ‘Castell del Rei Suite’ with its plastered white walls, exposed beams, comfortable chairs in the sitting room and a private terrace with great views.