Snowy River Riders by Julie Miller
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It was one of those spellbinding moments, when time is suspended and hearts momentarily stop before pounding triple-time with adrenaline. Deep in the heart of the Kosciuszko wilderness, a magnificent grey brumby stallion emerged from a eucalyptus grove, teeth bared in defiance, challenging a group of horseback riders who dared to venture into his territory, too close to his precious band of mares. He loomed larger than life, a mythical creature, a legend from the pages of literature or the silver screen. Then, in an instant, he vanished…with no trace but the faint imprint of hooves and the rustle of the wind to herald his fleeting presence.
A ghostly vision - and the very essence of riding in the Australian bush. This ancient, pristine wilderness is the spiritual heart of the continent, a place where the Dreamtime legends of the Aboriginals start to make sense and the stories of pioneers are brought to life. Here, the mythologies of the 19th-century bush poet Banjo Paterson, so beloved by the Australian people, become reality - the men are rugged and courteous, the horses sure-footed and true, and the beer always cold! It’s also a world of extremes – of overwhelming solitude and intense conversation; of lofty heights and vast plains; of strange and curious wildlife; of drought, bushfire, flood.
It’s a world entrenched in the Australian psyche, yet experienced by so few - which is what makes delving deep into its soul on horseback such a special experience.
The very scale of Australia’s wilderness is difficult to comprehend. Some National Parks cover millions of hectares; there are even cattle stations belonging to single families which are the size of small European nations. It’s a huge, underdeveloped country.
Two hundred years ago, when the first white settlers arrived on these shores, the only way to explore this formidable countryside was on horseback. Little has changed – while cars might shoot you quickly around the perimeters of National Parks and forests, the only way of getting into some areas is by foot, whether two or four. Even that is becoming more and more difficult as National Park authorities restrict leisure activities to protect the fragile environment. In some states, horse riding is banned in defined wilderness regions; there is even talk of re-routing the Bicentennial National Trail, a 5,330 kilometre trekking route which runs the entire length of the east coast of Australia, in order to avoid the National Parks.
Bureaucracies aside, horse riding is still the best way to get up close and personal with Australia’s unique landscapes. In the Kimberley, a vast untamed wilderness in the north-west corner of the continent, you can ride through soaring red gorges where few white men have ever ventured. In the Red Centre, you skirt wondrous landmarks such as Uluru and the magnificent Macdonnell Ranges, sacred sites to the indigenous Aboriginal Australians. In the far north of Queensland, you can ride under the canopy of the beautiful wet tropics rainforest, before emerging into rugged, unforgiving gold-mining territory. Then, of course, there is the High Country, an alpine region where it can be 40 degrees Celsius one day, snowing the next!
It takes a special kind of horse to endure such extremes – but Australia does indeed have special horses, tough as nails, bred out of hardship, for hardship. Horses are not native to this land – they arrived with the convicts in 1788, a handful of “unattractive” horses from the Cape of Good Hope, of English and Spanish descent. By 1798 there were 117 horses in the colony of NSW, the breeding stock boosted by the arrival of purebred Arabians from England and India, as well as Thoroughbreds, Welsh Mountain and Timor ponies.
Only the toughest horses survived the early sea voyages, which could take up to 12 months; but once here, they thrived, proving their strength, stamina and versatility. The strongest were retained for breeding, and despite their mixed origins, they developed into a handsome type known as the Waler, a horse acclaimed as the finest cavalry horse in the world during the Indian Mutiny, the Boer War and the First World War.
Even Andrew Barton (Banjo) Paterson, author of Australia’s favourite poem, The Man from Snowy River (1895), waxed lyrical about these Australian-bred steeds. “They looked light and wiry alongside the English horses,” he wrote during the Boer War, “but the authorities here pronounce them the finest horses yet landed…They are the sort that are known as Walers in India, and are first-class Walers at that.”
Then, of course, there is Banjo’s immortal description of The Man’s mountain-bred pony: “…a small and weedy beast; He was something like a racehorse undersized, With a touch of Timor pony – three parts thoroughbred at least – And such as are by mountain horsemen prized. He has hard and tough and wiry – just the sort that won’t say die – There was courage in his quick impatient tread, And he bore the badge of gameness in his bright and fiery eye, And the proud and lofty carriage of his head.”
When you visit Australia on a horse trekking vacation, this is the type of horse you are likely to be riding – a true snaffle bit horse now known as the Australian Stock Horse, a registered breed used in station work, sporting events and endurance riding. For long distance riding, they are unsurpassed – chosen by riding outfitters for their level-headed, reliable natures, stamina and sure-footedness over uneven ground. Other breeds you’ll encounter include Thoroughbreds and Arab derivatives; Clydesdales crosses are also popular.
You may even find a purebred ‘brumby’ amongst the riding herd, feral horses that have been captured and domesticated, often with great success. In the Snowy Mountains, some of the most reliable trail horses once ran with the brumbies; they now plod happily along under saddle, unperturbed by the sight of their wild brethren running free.
Like their American counterparts, the mustangs, brumbies are descended from horses which either escaped or were set free into the Australian bushland, where they flourished and multiplied. The unusual name is said to have derived from an unremarkable and otherwise forgettable early settler, James Brumby, who abandoned his horses in 1804; sightings of his neglected animals were referred to as ‘Brumby’s horses’ or simply ‘Brumby’s’. Today, it is estimated that there are between 300,000 and 600,000 brumbies in the Australian bush, though that number is declining as eradication programs are implemented by government authorities who consider the wild horses an environmental nuisance – certainly a contentious and emotional issue in a nation of horse-lovers.
In the meantime, encounters with the brumbies are a definite highlight of many wilderness treks, especially those in the NSW and Victorian High Country. This magnificent alpine region, spread out over 1.6 million hectares across three states and territories, offers perhaps the quintessential Australian riding experience. It fulfils fantasies of adventure, with its magnificent vistas, wide open plains, starry skies and cosy campfires – ingredients of every memorable horse ride.
By world standards, the peaks of the Australian Alps are mere pimples, with the tallest, Mt Kosciuszko, clocking in at just 2,228 metres (7,352 feet). In a flat, dry land with an average altitude of just 300 metres, however, these mountains are quite significant, with a cooler, moister climate than the rest of the continent. This is the only part of Australia where it snows regularly during winter – and despite the diminutive scale of the peaks, this region has more snow-covered terrain than Switzerland.
In the warmer months between October and April, however, the alpine High Country is an achingly beautiful destination for horse-riders and bushwalkers, who delight in endless panoramas of wildflower-studded grasslands, dramatic rocky outcrops, crystal-clear streams and groves of stark snowgums, contorted into surreal knots by winter’s icy winds and snowdrifts.
While the rest of the continent swelters in the summer haze, the alpine region is generally quite temperate, with warm sunny days and refreshingly cool nights. Riders must be prepared, however, for extremes – at these altitudes, the weather can turn at any moment, and it is not beyond the realm of possibility for a freak summer snowstorm to be followed by oppressive heatwave conditions. As the locals say, “One day it’s perfect, the next it’s trying to kill you.” Most treks provide their clients with Drizabones, impressive and stylish ankle-length oilskin coats, traditionally worn by cattlemen in the High Country but adopted by many Australians as a wet-weather fashion statement.
Unfortunately, another Aussie icon – the famous Akubra hat, perfect for keeping the sun off your face, the rain off your neck and your horse well-watered – has recently been deemed unacceptable in terms of safety; all horse riding clients must now wear regulation helmets.
Choosing a High Country ride may very well depend on where you are based. The southernmost part of the Victorian Alps, for instance, is only a two-hour drive from Melbourne – making the rides out of Mansfield and Mt Buller extremely accessible. This is a beautiful part of the world, rugged and dramatic – and, whilst a long way from the Snowy River itself, this was the location chosen to represent the legend in the film version of ‘The Man from Snowy River’. Riders who have seen the movie and want to visit recognisable landmarks such as Craig’s Hut or the eerily named Hell’s Window may be more than satisfied with riding the trails in this region. Accessibility, however, also means commercialism – and if you are after a true wilderness experience, far from the madding busloads and daytrippers, you may prefer to head deeper and higher into the mountains.
During winter months, the ski resorts of Mount Hotham and Falls Creek are lively party towns; in summer, they are mere ghost towns, with only a few dedicated bushwalkers and nature lovers keeping businesses afloat. For riders exploring this region, known as the Bogong High Plains, the silence is golden, and groups can be assured of absolute privacy and solitude as they venture off the beaten track.
The lack of human companionship, however, is countered by the abundance of wildlife – kangaroos in flight as hoofbeats approach, bounding away in spectacular style; wallabies grazing peacefully along river flats in the evening light; dingoes, the much-maligned Australian wild dog, slinking along pebbly creek beds in search of prey; eagles, sublime lords of the air. Other animals, more elusive, make their presence felt in other ways – wombat holes, huge underground caverns of freshly dug earth, are a constant hazard for delicate equine legs stretched at a gallop. It’s a cavalcade of exotica, a fascinating biology lesson.
It takes at least a day of constant riding, usually uphill through glades of gnarled snowgums, to reach areas of total isolation. It’s a tough call for horses and riders alike, with long hours in the saddle putting real pressure on knees, backs and rear ends. The horses, mountain-bred and trail-fit, seem to cope exceptionally well, regaining their energy once the grade flattens.
Above the treeline, the vistas stretch interminably, with rolling summits, exposed ridges and rocky outcrops topping vast open plains. This is the ideal location for a vigorous canter; experienced riders can bowl along, confident that the gradual incline will eventually bring their puffing mounts to a halt. It’s an exhilarating experience, one where the dangers are as real as the adventure, and one enjoyed as much by the horses as their riders.
Extended treks into the High Country are not for the faint-hearted. Each day consists of at least six gruelling hours in the saddle; accommodation is in tents, or swags rolled out under the stars. Meals are cooked around a campfire: hearty country fare and billy tea. Bathroom facilities consist of the nearest bush, and bathing is performed in the river, creek or dam. There’s nothing quite like a brisk swim in a freezing waterhole to ease aching muscles and invigorate you for your next day’s exploration!
Some rides, such as Helen Packer’s intimate trips through the remote wilderness near Dinner Plain, cater exclusively for experienced riders confident with long hours in the saddle and an unstructured route. The less experienced may prefer to join a larger, more commercial group – Reynella, for instance, a company based near Adaminaby in NSW, caters for all standards with their popular treks into the Kosciuszko National Park. Even absolute beginners are welcome, and it’s fantastic to see reticent and nervous riders begging for more at the end of a five-day ride. After about three days in the saddle, aches and pains seem to vanish, endurance levels rise and horsemanship is improved out of sight.
In true laconic Aussie fashion, few operators follow set trails. The daily route is dependent on weather, riders’ ability and sheer whim. Most rides set off in the cool of early morning, when the grass is dewy and shadows long; by lunchtime, weary riders and horses take a welcome break, indulging in packed sandwiches, fruit cake and delicious billy tea, flavoured with the essences of the Australian bush. Rustic cattleman’s huts, historic vestiges of the pioneer era, are a favoured resting point; grassy river banks are another welcome sight, with a skinny dip often in order! Cooled and refreshed, riders mount for another three hour stint; and as the sun dips over the mountains and the peaks turn from lavender to orange to vermilion, riders delight in the wonders of the Australian bush as ’roos, wallabies and wild horses venture out to graze.
After six bone-crunching hours in the saddle, the evening camp is a welcome sight. Weary horses, unsaddled and washed down, head for the nearest sandy patch for a limb-stretching roll; while riders limp off to bathe or to knock back a few ‘tinnies’ of beer. After that, the Australian night engulfs and soothes, with starry skies and the eerie sounds of nocturnal marsupials to entertain and intrigue.