Shopping in Chiang Mai: Beyond the Night Market by Cynthia Rosenfeld
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Swanky backpackers – think Prada not Patagonia – are discovering the stylish charms of Northern Thailand. Instead of seeking pleasure from poppies or even an elephant ride, this new set of trend spotting travellers follow in the footsteps of Thai artists and other creative types who decamped from Bangkok to Chiang Mai after the economic slump of the late 1990s. These days their ateliers turn out some of Southeast Asia’s most desirable designs. Many have set up shop along one convenient stretch known as Nimmanhaemin, easily accomplished on foot.
Filled from floor to ceiling with hill tribe paraphernalia, Srisanpanmai (6 Soi 1 Nimmanhaemin Road) is an ethnic emporium worth exploring. Well worn sarongs have kept their colours thanks to natural vegetable dyes but may not be as practical as new, hand loomed scarves in a rainbow of soft cottons that make great, easy to pack gifts or traditional pillow squares to support the back on long car rides around the region.
Nearly next door, Adorn (22 Soi 1 Nimmanhaemin Road) shows off an ikat inspired gown made to order in shades of yellow to honour the Thai king. Everything here is handmade in the area, from darling crochet earrings to cuddly cotton wraps in mustard yellow or shocking pink, unexpected hues that hit the mark.
Step inside Silver Birch (28 Soi 1 Nimmanhaemin Road), a fantasyland of hand carved toys that could be mistaken for Gepetto’s workshop. Crafted from locally grown mango wood, tiny pigs may be too cute for some but strung as mobiles they make artful baby gifts that will entertain adults too. Stop for a luscious latte while considering something more significant like the 80cm long wall mounted dragonfly.
100% pure beeswax Tropical Nights candles handmade outside Chiang Mai are infused with natural homeopathic flower essences to elevate the mood which they do inside Living Space (6/9 Nimmanhaemin Road) a local institution that confirmed this neighbourhood’s vibe when it decamped here earlier this year. Lambskin purses in vibrant shades like acid green with purple stitching and sexy clutches covered in water snakeskin will surely raise most shoppers’ spirits as well.
Fashionistas who know their way around Bangkok may already be familiar with Kai (6/6-7 Nimmanhaemin Road). Inside the brand’s sale outlet, hunt for sexy, curve clinging cotton sweaters cut low enough to give anyone cleavage and ruffled silk off the shoulder tops with Carmen Miranda tropical appeal.
Mosey along to Sbun-Nga (6/15-16 Nimmanhaemin Road), difficult to pronounce but easy on the wallet. Entirely wearable hats fashioned from hill tribe textiles cover most available shelf space while oversized carry-alls crafted from accordion folded embroidered fabric and groovy Capri length pants detailed with intricate tribal stitching hang haphazardly on the cracked walls.
Elegance reigns inside Gerard Collection (6/23-24 Nimmanhaemin Road) where walls are lined with woven bamboo bags sporting buffalo horn handles or leather trim. Take a moment to appreciate finishing touches like the sterling silver wrapped around a simple bamboo clutch that creates an instant classic.
Perfect for teens or anyone who wants to add a touch of youthfulness to their look, Chabaa (14/32 Nimmanhaemin Road) is a closet size space overflowing with Mexican inspired cotton embroidered frocks, like skimpy sundresses, billowing tank tops and tunics that do double duty atop jeans or over bikinis.
Those with a little leftover cash can duck into Just Beads & Stone (43 Tall Teak Plaza, Nimmanhaemin Road) to load up on authentic tribal silver earrings, coin purses fashioned from vintage hill tribe fabrics or strands of glass beads.