Sharrow Bay by Jamie Dunford Wood

Sharrow Bay stands in a little bay on Ullswater in the Lake District, a conversion of a rather ramshakle country house with a tall flagpole at the top of which flys the Union Jack, a detail which can be off putting to us apologetic Brits. The first thing that you notice inside is the sheer amount of things - on walls, on tables, on floors. Sculpted 20s table lamps, dog eared tomes on obscure 19thC subjects, oils on the wall which anywhere else might make you wince. Antique chairs come in all shapes and sizes, and clocks tick-tock and chime.

The facilities
Sharrow Bay is a survivor because it's the eccentric home of famous partners and lifelong companions Francis Coulson and Brian Sac. Francis now sadly passed on and doubtless hoteliering in heaven. Once you know this you forgive, or rather accept, the kitsch bits and pieces that surround you, the most startling of which are the glowing glass chip electric fires in practically every room, including the bedrooms. It gives the whole place a cosy Victorian boudoir feel.

The food is exceptional if a little over elaborate. Chef Johnny Martin has been there for 36 years. 78 year old Brian makes a point of coming and chatting to guests if he is around, which reinforces the familial feel. His able manager Nigel Lightburn has been there 28 years and started as a boy. A place which attracts such loyalty is unusual. It's therefore not surprising perhaps that 85% of their business is repeat or comes via referrals.

The rooms
Many of the 26 bedrooms in Sharrow Bay continue the boudoir theme, with flowery motifs, the ubiquitous glowing coals and some judiciously chosen pieces of antique bone china. Furnishings are of limed oak. The bathrooms come with a fine array of Molton Brown toiletries, and each room feels as if it has had the personal touch of Brian and Francis. Each has a name - Marion has the best views, Pinkie has a balcony, and Aphrodite is for lying in bed. They also have some new Garden suites, which have sitting areas downstairs and bedrooms upstairs.

If you like this arrangement, they are quiet and spacious, but somehow lack the character of the rooms in the main house. Just up the lane they have a second house, Bank House, which also has some fine rooms in the same style and some wonderful views over the lake and surrounding countryside (great walking country this), but unless you are a large party and want to book a number of rooms, or seek rural seclusion (it feels more like a country cottage), stay in the main house for the atmospehere.