San Anselmo by Jamie Dunford Wood

This charming Roman albergo is away from the action on the leafy, residential Aventine Hill, but makes for a good value escape from the bustle (if not the heat - there’s not a/c here until 2004) of the city.

A conversion of an old Roman villa, the furnishings and silk wall coverings and faded beveled mirrors help to preserve the unhurried elegance of a former age. Tall ceilings - at least on the first two floors - and tall shuttered windows reinforce the effect. However, comfort is compromised, as the bathrooms are basic and there is no a/c. But the Anselmo will be closed for most of 2004 for refurbishment, so its new air-conditioned reincarnation, provided it retains the old world charm, promises to create a winner.

A small and pleasant garden with ambient birdsong makes for a relaxed breakfast, and nearby you can find one of the best, and least known, views of the dome of St. Peters - through a keyhole.

The Anselmo belongs to a group of three on this hill - if you are farmed out to one of the others, politely decline. They lack the Anselmo’s charm, though they do have a/c.