Riad Norma by Fiona Dunlop

It’s a small-scale riad and, yes, it’s down an uninspiring dead-end street of the medina where cats prowl through the garbage and boys kick footballs. Such a setting is pretty common in the burgeoning riad scene of Marrakesh and of Fez. But the difference at Riad Norma is that you are welcomed by the owner Monique, a chatty Frenchwoman and former air-stewardess, who steers you through the large roofed patio to a walled garden at the back. Here - big surprise - a cool blue plunge-pool lies in wait. This is Riad Norma’s trump card for the hotter months - providing your fellow guests are of a tranquil spirit. For this reason children under 14 are not allowed.

The rooms
Inside are six rooms and suites (plus an “Imperial” suite to be added by early 2007), each named after one of Maria Callas’ operatic exploits. Lofty ceilings soar above traditional decoration (plasterwork, zelige mosaic, rugs, heavy brocade curtains, armoire, soft lighting), each different in colour scheme and lay-out but all bringing a touch of provincial France to a typical Moroccan riad. The two ground-floor suites are rather public unless the curtains are drawn over the glass doors, so aim for upstairs. There is not much scope for relaxing in your room nor are there writing-tables, phones or TVs, but that is not what riads are about. There is, however, essential air-conditioning and heating, and bathrooms are roomy and well-appointed with ample towels, bathrobes and external windows, something that makes a difference on super-sultry days. Baths have shower attachments.

For the moment designer touches are completely absent, although a contemporary look is on the cards for the upcoming expansion. Recorded music plays rather too continuously in the background - there are moments when peace and quiet is precious - but this is part of Monique’s enthusiastic nature; she even named the riad after Callas’ rendition of Bellini’s “Norma”. Other negatives are a few too many vases of dried flowers, a surfeit of wrought iron and somewhat mismatched table-settings - but this is compensated for by a homely, welcoming atmosphere.

Guests (mainly middle-aged English-speakers) can use the internet connection in the office of the genial manager, Abdul Kader.