Riad Maria by Joanna Monkhouse

As locations go, that of Riad Maria is amongst the most spectacular in Morocco. On the very edge of the Sahara, the view from the courtyard of the dunes just a hundred metres away is one that will remain with you long after your stay.

One of a string of establishments along the dunes means that Riad Maria is less isolated that might be expected, yet it is the only one with a swimming pool and air-conditioning – both very welcome/necessary in the desert heat. However, the electric generator operates only at set times each day and is off from midnight to 6.30am which can lead to sticky nights. Opening the window once the a/c is off lets the cool night air in and the screen keeps the flies out.

Painted in jewel-like colours, the rooms are comfortable but do not live up to the promise that the entrance and dramatic courtyard lend. Somewhat reminiscent of a back-packer hotel, though with ensuite shower rooms, in the heat of warmer months they are too small to want to spend much time in, especially when the a/c is off. However, with the views from the pool, courtyard and the terrace at the back, much can be forgiven. The two suites are twice as expensive as standard rooms and offer dune views from the large beds and small private terraces. They can also accommodate two extra beds if necessary.

Camels can be hired to visit the dunes to watch the sun rise or set – and an early start is highly recommended to get further than the streams of tourists from the other establishments with the same idea. 4x4 desert safaris can also be arranged on site.

The Italian owners offer both their own cuisine and a Moroccan menu (the former with a 10eu supplement), any special requirements should be noted at the time of reservation as supplies come from Marrakech or Casablanca and last minute requests can rarely be accommodated.

With two-star rooms, three-star service, four-star facilities and a five-star location, Riad Maria is the desert option for those who want the grandeur of the desert without sleeping in a desert bivouac. What Riad Maria lacks in finesse is more than made up for by the setting and unforgettable views.