Riad Gyvo by Joanna Monkhouse

Riad Gyvo is a large riad, well positioned, beautifully converted and filled with interesting pieces by its museum curator owners. The walls are thick and the ceilings high, the rooms light and airy and lacking in the omnipresent dampness that seems to infiltrate the whole medina of Essaouira. There are two spacious first floor apartments, one first floor studio and a further two studios on the ground floor. Each has an ensuite shower room and a well equipped kitchen area for those who wish to self-cater. Adjacent to Riad Gyvo’s roof terrace (where you’ll find some of Essaouira’s best views of the beach and the port), is a charming garconniere with direct access onto the terrace and a more secluded atmosphere than the other rooms, although the private bathroom is not ensuite. Breakfast is not compulsory but it would be a crime to miss the spread, accompanied by the conversation of fellow guests and your host who manages to be welcoming, friendly and enthusiastic whilst still allowing you to relax in peace. Staying at Riad Gyvo feels like staying with old friends.