Red Sand Country by Fiona Harper

As we stand amid the ancient lands where red sand and white sand countries meet, we marvel at the call of the Chiming Wedgebill. Its distinctive voice seems to be asking ``why did you get drunk?'' as repeatedly as a stuck record.

Against the blue water background, we learn about the survivors of this tough country, where two lands intermingle and adapt. "Just like my people," our Aboriginal guide Darren Capewell, known as Capes, explains. "Some who live in the two cultures of city and bush survive better than others." We are standing on the red sand of Gathaagudu country, meaning Two Waters, what the saltwater people call Shark Bay.

Before Capes came back to his traditional home of the Malgana People, in World Heritage-listed Shark Bay almost 900km north of Perth, he was an important part of an entirely different culture. He was a member of the 1995 inaugural Fremantle Dockers AFL squad.  He has now returned to the rich ochre sands of his people to take visitors on a journey through his traditional country. 

Upon returning to Monkey Mia in Shark Bay, Capes spent five years working with the Yadgalah Aboriginal Corporation, rising to the position of Manager.  The YAC aims to build community development programs within Shark Bay, and to raise awareness of the Malgana people and its culture.

In 2004 Capes set up his own tour guide business: Wula Guda Nyinda, meaning ‘you come this way’ in Malgana language.  He currently runs two Aboriginal cultural walks each day. All tours begin from the amphitheatre of the Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort, with Capes welcoming participants with some awesome live didgeridoo playing.

The Daytime Dreaming Tour runs during mid-morning, and the Dusk Dreaming tour runs in the evenings.  While the two walks are similar in content, the morning walk incorporates a beach walk before returning to the resort. One hour nocturnal Didge Dreaming tours are also available on request.  Additionally, there are plans in place to add overnight sea kayaking tours through the turquoise waters of Red Cliff Bay.

Capes’ large family is now spread throughout the region, but the links to this land are strong. The vivid green leaves of the Currajong tree hold a special place as his mother was born beneath the shade of one of these life-sustaining trees. We have joined him on the Dusk Dreaming tour for a bush tucker wander through red sand country.

Capes warned us before we walked from the amphitheatre of the Resort that we would see and hear many animals and birds; we would learn to recognise the tracks of kangaroo, emu, snake and lizard. "Keep your eyes and ears open and you will understand how this country can talk to you," Capes tells us. 

However I'm not prepared for a close encounter with the dugite snake that slithers within a metre of our group. After our startled gasps, it moves away into the grass. At the bird hide adjacent to the watering hole, we see emus darting away through the bush, and we prod the fresh kangaroo spoor. The track and the spoor of the kangaroo can reveal a lot: where it is heading, what it has been eating, whether old or young, travelling fast or slow, sick or injured. We begin to realise this country certainly does have a lot to say if we are prepared to listen.

The Malgana people follow a creed of education, understanding and respect. It is this principle that guides our meander through these ancient lands. "We share this country and take only what we need. We respect this country, and it will look after us. Tread softly and do no damage," our guide Capes instructs us.

This is advice that applies not just here in red sand country, but could be taken away for use in our everyday lives. The bush is alive with food and water choices, once you know where to find them. Capes takes us to his favourite “lolly tree” The Charlie Tree he calls it.  According to his people, an old fella called Charlie used to lie around all day underneath this type of tree. 

Other names the Malgana people have given this tree include “naked lady”, and “leafless ballarat”, due to its dry, dead leaf look. The tiny red berries are soft with a hard seed centre, and taste of lemon and pepper. Capes says the emus love to eat the berries of the Charlie Tree.  When he sees emus around, he knows the berries are ready.  “Just another way this country can talk you,” he says scoffing berries before the emus get to them.

We discover saltbush is aptly named; sucking on the cactus-like stalks leaves a salty but enjoyable taste in our mouths. The sandalwood tree provides nuts similar in size and texture to a hazelnut, and without doubt is the most enjoyable taste on our gourmet bush tour.

As well as conducting his two cultural walks DOES EVERYTHING DESCRIBED ABOVE TAKE PLACE ON THE SAME WALK?,YES Capes is still involved with YAC and now sits on the committee in an advisory role. The YAC shares 50 percent ownership of the Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort with Indigenous Business Australia. These two groups have much input into the resort, with an indigenous traineeship program in place. One of their aims is to create tourism industry employment opportunities for their traditional people.

This country has much to teach us if only we stand still long enough to listen. The saltwater people have many treasures to share...