Quality Cymru by Alf Alderson

It’s not too long since a trip to Wales for some outdoor action was fine until the night drew in – at which point accommodation options often seemed depressingly limited to penny pinching B&Bs under the harsh command of mealy mouthed proprietors.

Fortunately, things have changed beyond recognition in the Principality of late, with a whole rash of top notch, reasonably priced accommodation springing up which compliments the high quality mountain biking, hiking and other outdoor activities available in Wales. A few days of outdoor action here is now something to relish; follow the route described below and you may wonder if there’s any point going abroad again - well, as long as the sun shines…

SOUTH WALES
Head to the Gower Peninsula for some of the best surfing in Britain, with the added bonus that it’s largely devoid of the hype and crowds of Cornwall and Devon. Indeed, the locals are some of the friendliest and best-humoured surfers on the planet, even towards the English.

The most popular spot for beginners and experienced surfers alike is the huge beach at Llangennith, but there are plenty of smaller coves and bays with decent breaks. Some, like Caswell and Langland, are within easy reach of the centre of Swansea, which, with its new marina, a range of decent bars and easy access is no longer the uninspiring destination it once was.

Other options include the lovely Threecliff Bay or the large crescent of Oxwich Bay (although it requires a big swell to produce good surf), and if the waves aren’t up to scratch you can always head up to the ridge of Cefn Bryn for a hike – the paths along the backbone of the peninsula have magnificent views as far afield as the Brecon Beacons, Pembrokeshire and the coasts of Somerset and Devon.

At the end of the day drive back into Swansea and stay at Morgan’s Hotel in the centre of town – rooms with stylish, contemporary designs, the choice of a top class restaurant or the more casual Plimsoll Café Bar, and easy access to the city’s nightlife make this chic new hotel a great option if you want to spoil yourself a little after a day being buffeted about in the surf.

MID WALES
Having done South Wales it’s a delightful drive from Gower across the undulating hills and bucolic countryside of Carmarthenshire and Cardiganshire to the Irish Sea coast and the pretty Georgian town of Aberaeron. You’ll want to spend some time wandering around the harbour and along streets lined with houses and shops featuring elegant facades and painted in every shade you can imagine, but for nature lovers the big attraction here is the sea, and in particular the resident bottlenose dolphin population.

You can take ‘dolphin spotting’ boat trips out into Cardigan Bay, and on my first such voyage we were surrounded by scores of them, varying from large males playing in the bow wave to mothers and calves keeping a safe distance. However good your surfing may have been whilst on the Gower, these fellas will soon show you how to do it properly, and may well throw in a few acrobatics too.

Back on shore, there’s also plenty to do on what is Wales’ least known coastline – take a hike along the Ceredigion Coast Path, or head a few miles south to New Quay, another picturesque harbour town and once the haunt of Dylan Thomas. Some historians claim the town was the inspiration for ‘Under Milk Wood’ rather than Laugharne in South Wales, and like its namesake in Cornwall, this New Quay also has a good wave for experienced surfers if there’s a big swell running up the Irish Sea.

After your date with the dolphins head back to Aberaeron’s award-winning Harbourmaster Hotel – as the name implies, this was the home of the town’s harbour master when Aberaeron was a rather busier port than today, and the hotel’s décor reflects its links to the ocean, with relaxing shades of sea blue and green in open, airy rooms. Falling asleep to the sound of the clanking halyards of yachts at anchor and water lapping against the harbour walls is about as relaxing an end to the day as you’ll get.

NORTH WALES
The drive north along the Cardigan Bay coast then inland from Aberaeron to Snowdonia is one of Britain’s least lauded road trip – why this should be remains a mystery since it takes in marvellous views across Cardigan Bay to the mountains of Snowdonia, weaves through dark, green forests and beside glassy watered estuaries where herons, gulls and cormorants compete for fish, and clambers over high, windswept mountain passes with views across half of North Wales.

Absorbing yourself in all this wild scenery is good mental preparation for one of the best reasons to visit Snowdonia – the world-class mountain biking trails at Coed-y-Brenin near Dolgellau (similar centres can also be found at Betws-y-Coed further north and in at Nant-yr-Arian to the east of Aberystwyth). The ‘world class’ claim is no idle boast either, for the Colorado-based International Mountain Biking Association has rated Wales’ purpose built trails some of the best on the planet.

You don’t have to be a super-fit Lycra clad freak to enjoy the riding as there’s something here for every level of ability, along with a cosy little caff in which to rest and eat cake after your ride, and even a bike wash so your bike can go home clean and shiny even if you don’t. The routes at Coed-y-Brenin have been designed by mountain bikers for mountain bikers, so there’s no wrestling with bogs and swamps and the only time you need to hop off your bike is if the ascents and/or descents are too long, steep or technical for you.

Alternatively you could head a few miles south to the lively market town of Machynlleth, from where several waymarked mountain bike trails lead out of town to meander through the surrounding hills and forests and introduce you to some wild, lovely and much overlooked Welsh landscapes.

After all this action in the saddle, you’ll be welcome even if plastered in mud at Dolffanog Fach, a 17th century farmhouse B&B on the shore of Talyllyn Lake beneath Cadair Idris. Accommodation is in cool, contemporary surroundings, and dinners are also offered in a candlelit, slate-floored dining room where home grown and local produce are a feature.

All this is a far cry from the damp B&Bs and unwelcoming landlords of the past. These days Wales has hotels that are as much fun to visit as its hills and coasts – only trouble is, some of them are so nice you may not actually want to leave them for the great outdoors.

www.adventure.visitwales.com