Putting on the Biarritz: Basquing on the Surf Coast by Daphne Beames
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There is another 'South of France' nestling near the Basque border and overlooking the marvellous waves of the timeless Atlantic. The Côte d'Argent is a paradise for surfers, a haven for sun-worshippers and an exciting find for culture lovers. Fit for a king, this glittering enclave was beloved of Edward VII and is steeped in Second Empire history – having been immortalised by Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III. (It once afforded even the reclusive Queen Victoria enough amusement to make her a frequent visitor.)
Driving south from Bordeaux on the A63, through the emerald green countryside of Aquitaine, there is tangible expectation in the air as one approaches this most individual, south-western corner of France - with its trio of stylish towns: Biarritz, Bayonne and Saint-Jean-de-Luz. (10% of the Basque population are French and live in the charming, character-filled villages of the Pyrénées-Atlantiques - where the frontier blends seamlessly into Spain.)
We headed for Saint-Jean-de-Luz with its famous beaches. In August the resort is a scorching tourist destination but the mild winters and Mediterranean climate make it popular throughout the year. Much of the activity is centred around the sheltered, natural harbour; the Basque Corniche; and the medieval heart of the town.
Here exclusive designer stores rival the best that Paris can offer; vibrant markets and street stalls – with their strings of red chillies and peppers drying in the sun - compete for the local and tourist trade; and the charming, old houses of Port Cibourne (birthplace of the composer, Maurice Ravel) - reflected in the waters of the River Nivelle - create the allure of a little-Venice. You may even catch the locals at play as they demonstrate the traditional Basque game of pelota – the fastest game in the world!
Discover Place Louis XIV - also called ‘Petit Paris’. This delightful square, shaded by plane trees and oozing atmosphere, trades on its royal connections for here, in 1660, the ‘Sun King’ married his Spanish Bride in the Eglise St-Jean Baptiste. This is the most splendid Basque church in the region and the earliest part of the Baroque building dates back to the15th-century. It boasts three floors of magnificent, wooden galleries and a display of ornate, gilded statues.
It is also de rigueur to visit Maison Louis XIV, where the monarch was housed before his nuptials (the wedding was delayed as he dallied with his mistress). It is now a museum and a rich treasure trove of period furniture.
The enticing Rue de la République (leading to the beach) is fringed with an array of chic restaurants offering mouth-watering local cuisine. Try the ‘chiprions’: squid cooked in their own ink and piperade: omelette with peppers and ham.
Once an important whaling station on the Bay of Biscay, Saint-Jean-de-Luz now attracts surfers, nature lovers, hikers and whale watchers.
Be sure to plan your sightseeing in advance for, once through the gates of the elegant Parc Victoria Hotel, you may not wish to venture forth in search of diversion. Set in spacious parkland against a backdrop of centuries-old trees and with paved pathways meandering through the manicured foliage, this imposing 19th-century manor house, close to the beach, is now a luxurious member of the Relais & Chateau chain.
There are 18 tastefully furnished guestrooms and suites - some in the main house and others masquerading as private villas in the landscaped gardens. All are exquisitely decorated with expensive Art Deco furniture and have divinely decadent bathrooms.
A sparkling pool, surrounded by well-tended lawns and aromatic shrubs completes a perfect picture and the poolside restaurant offers Basque hospitality, candle-lit dinners and delicious cuisine. Try the house speciality: deep fried foie gras.
A scenic road winds inland - through rich green pastureland - towards quaint, not-to-be missed Aïnhoa: one of the most beautiful Basque villages in France. The Basques, whose ancient language, Euskara, is thought to be distinct from Indo-European origins, are a fiercely independent people and the roofs, shutters and doorways of their quaint homes (called etches) are brightly painted in red and green: the colours of their flag.
Founded in the 12th-century, Aïnhoa was an important stop on the pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostela. Under the shadow of Mount Rhune - the old, red-stone church, with its tiered bell tower, is the focus of the pocket-handkerchief town and beside it stands the tall, bare ‘fronton’ wall (obligatory in every Basque village) for the national game of pelota. Half-timbered, white-washed houses with carved lintels, decorative fronts and bursting with flower-filled balconies line the picturesque main street. A delightful restaurant, Ithurria, serves traditional fare with rosé Rioja wines
Barely12 kms from of Saint-Jean stands its aristocratic, belle époch neighbour - the most sophisticated seaside town on the Atlantic Coast. Biarritz (a Basque name) has never forgotten its days of Imperial splendour and elaborate fin de siècle architecture; a gracious Opera House; an opulent Russian Orthodox Church complete with a famous blue dome; and once-upon-a-time, seafront mansions - still claim pride of place in the cosmopolitan city.
Since 1957 when - during the filming of ‘The Sun Also Rises’ - Hollywood scriptwriter, Tony Viertel, discovered the unique currents and giant waves at the southern tip of the Bay of Biscay, Biarritz has also laid claim to the title of ‘Surf Capital of Europe’.
Cradled by the surf, the grand palace is the crown jewel and centre piece of an endless curve of glistening, golden sand. Once the summer home of Napoleon III and Empress Eugénie, the Hotel du Palais - now restored after a fire - is owned by the City of Biarritz.
This sumptuous, pink confection – one of the ‘Leading Hotels of the World’ - was voted the best European resort by Condé Nast Traveler - winning the 2008 Readers’ Choice Award. (It also lays claim to outstanding sporting facilities.) Whether you check into a magnificent apartment, enjoy a meal in one of the first-class restaurants or merely drop in to view the elegant lobby and lounges - an aura of glamour and ageless charm permeates.
From the esplanade there are indelible, lorgnette views in both directions. The long expanse of beach is framed by two, stony promontories: to the north, Le Phare, the lighthouse keeping watch over the weathered rocks of Miramar Beach and in the south, Point l’Atalaye – at the distant edge of Grand Plage.
Stroll north along the Ave de l’Imperatrice, into the Sentier des Vagues (path of the waves) and climb to the top of the lighthouse for a breathtaking, panoramic view of the steep cliffs and the deep-blue bay.
Then take a walk on the ‘wave side’ – à la Winston Churchill. The waterfront promenade weaves beneath the terrace of the Hotel du Palais and then widens to become the Quai de la Grand Plage – skirting a beach dotted with expensive, colourfully striped parasols. Pass the tiered gardens, planted with feathery, pink-plumed Tamarisk trees and continue to Port des Pêcheurs – crowded with boats and tiny fishermen’s cottages (crampottes).
Here, a dramatic, metal footbridge, designed by Gustav Eiffel and incorporating unused frames from the Eiffel Tower, leads across the water to a rocky islet: Rocher de la Vierge. (The craggy rock takes its name from the white statue of the Virgin – erected on the top in 1865.)
Lunch at ‘Chez Albert’ or ‘Le Corsaire’ before swinging by the Planete Musée du Chocolat for dessert (above the Côte des Basques beach) and then visiting the Musée de la Mer at seal-feeding time: an Art Deco aquarium exhibiting sharks, seals and interesting specimens of marine life native to the bay.
From the old port, a short walk along Place Bellevue leads to Place Georges-Clémenceau, the recently pedestrianised hub of the modern town - and the stylish venue for Galeries Lafayette, a string of trés chic boutiques, and a cluster of excellent restaurants.
The port of Bayonne, capital of Pays Basque, almost merges with Biarritz. Important since Roman times, it lies a mere 8 kms away – between the fast-flowing River Nive and the wide Adour. Visit Grand Bayonne with its 13th-century, Gothic Cathédrale de Sainte-Marie and Petit Bayonne, on the opposite side of the quay - where there is a superb art gallery: the Musée Bonnat.
The bayonet is thought to have been invented here but today this pleasant Basque city is more famous for its men in berets, gourmet ham, hot chocolate and spicy sausages - loukinkos.