Portofino: a Fine Port by Daphne Beames

Portofino is a jewel. The legendary fame of near-by Florence, Pisa and Lucca may attract a greater number of holiday-makers heading for Italy, but those who stumble across the exquisite, winding, sea-front road that leads to this shining cul-de-sac (past Rapallo and Santa Margherita on the Ligurian coast) will take a deep breath and fall irresistibly in love.

The nearest international airport is at Genoa (38kms away) but the Coté d’Azur at Nice is an attractive alternative: the scenic route along the French and Italian Rivieras, past Villefranche and Monaco, takes about three hours but offers some of the most beautiful views in the world.

Trust the Italians to harbour such a gem. Nestled on the ‘Coast of the Rising Sun’ (Riviera di Levante), east of Genoa, this miniscule, ‘Vogue’ venue resembles nothing less than a pastel-washed, picture postcard. Narrow streets tumble down to the beautiful, cobbled square (the famous Piazzetta) at the water’s edge - where quaint buildings are painted in a palette of cream, rose and cantaloupe and where parking comes at a premium – if at all.

Expensive restaurants and diamond-studded boutiques (spelling out Gucci and Armani) cluster together - framing the three-sided, bay sparkling below its designer backdrop: the historic castle of San Giorgio. Here, ripples playing on the clear water reflect picturesque sailing boats and colourful fishing vessels, nuzzling against the gleaming prows of ocean-going yachts – and fishermen spread their nets on hallowed stone.

Protected from the cold winds of the north and the east by the Apennines and the Alpes Maritimes, the Riviera enjoys mild winters and is ideal for growing citrus fruits, rosy pomegranates and lush figs. The calm waters of the marine protectorate are also famous for rare sponges and red coral. The micro-climate can, however, be quirky - and in September we encountered, surprisingly, both high temperatures and hail on one day.

An ideal base for exploring the fine port and the lovely tree-clad inlets that line the surrounding coastline (some have wonderful names like Cala del Oro and San Fruttuoso) is the ‘Hotel Splendido’ - perched on forested hills high above the turquoise sea. The legend inscribed on the impressive gates could not be more accurately descriptive, and an endless parade of movie-stars, celebrity soccer icons, presidents and politicians has clamoured (and continues to clamour) to enjoy the superb amenities, addictive cuisine, free parking and shuttle service to the port. If you choose to walk to the townlet - it is a mere ten minutes away.

Parts of this former monastery - with its elegant, black and white marble floors - date back to the 15th-century and the magnificent interior is decorated with Carrara marble and inspirational frescoes. From the vine and geranium-covered terraces there are endless views over the pines, the olive groves and the idyllic Golfo Tigullio - while in the scented gardens camellias, orange trees, chestnuts and mimosas bloom in romantic, Mediterranean profusion.

Dine in the exclusive La Terrazza Restaurant, on specialities that include scallops and salade de homard - and for dessert try the cigar flutes with glacé fruits, coulis and tangerine sorbet. Then, dance the night away, à la Bogart and Bacall, at the celebrated Piano Bar.

A recent, plush addition to the original hotel is the ‘Splendido Mare’ located in the heart of the tiny village and blending perfectly with the old, maritime quayside. Under a low archway, huge plate-glass windows set in authentic, old stone and lit with halogen-beam lights, create an inviting, up-market façade. The hotel’s ‘Chuflay Restaurant’ lays claim to the best position on the bay.

If haven’t bought your ticket yet, here’s more to whet your appetite.

On Portofino’s chic waterfront - high fashion, speciality seafood and luscious Italian, red wines are the order of the day and night. This is the haunt of the ‘bold and beautiful’ people - a place to see and be seen. Experience wine-tasting - featuring wines from the near-by Cinque Terre region - and then lunch bay-side at Ristorante Puny, Delfinos or the Pizzeria El Portico. As dusk falls, enjoy a ‘Bellini’ (peach juice and champagne) at the coolest bar in town: the Bar Morena Di Ugo and then join the evening passeggiata alongside the harbour.

Must-see sights include the Church of San Giorgio; Castello Brown; and the 10th to 11th-century, Abbey at San Fruttuoso. The enchanting town of Santa Margherita is also just minutes away on the palm-lined, yacht-strewn seaboard.

The Abbey at San Fruttuoso can be reached only by boat or on foot.

The steep trail begins in a corner of the harbour, at the old Church of San Martino, and winds along the wooded hillside towards the little, yellow, Chiesa di San Giorgio built on the site of an early Roman sanctuary once dedicated to the Persian god, Mithra. The Spartan, white interior of the church is relieved by small, gilded statues; raised graves fill the tiny cemetery; and the sweeping views from the terrace embrace the curves of the lovely coastline - as far as the distant outline of Rapallo.

The track leads on and up towards Castello Brown: the crenellated castle surmounting the heights. This former fortress and strategic lookout, built during the Middle Ages to ward off the invading Turks and partially destroyed during the Napoleonic wars, was later bought and restored by the English Consul in Genoa: Montaque Yeats Brown. Today this museum/villa, surrounded by magnificent gardens, houses medieval treasures and ‘Brown’ memorabilia. The castle is owned by the town of Portofino and is open daily.

The walk continues through orchards and vineyards ringed with cypresses - past the lighthouse (faro) - towards the medieval, Abbey of San Fruttuoso. This Benedictine retreat includes a Byzantine church built by monks in the 11th-century; graceful, Romanesque cloisters; the Doria tower and a maze of winding corridors. On a calm day, a statue of ‘Christ of the Abysses’ (for the protection of sailors) can be glimpsed 15m beneath the surface of the water in Capodimonte Bay. (The comely Abbey is open to the public from March to September. Closed on Mondays.)

Four kms from Portofino lies the glistening, coastal resort of Santa Margherita Ligure. (Margarita means ‘pearl’ in Latin.) Overlooking the Ligurian Sea, this blend of Belle Epoque elegance and marine charm has a captivating appeal. An esplanade fringed with palm fronds, a Grand Hotel decorated in nautical shades of wave and shell, home to a fishing fleet and renowned for its temperate climate - Santa attracts an international stream of savants.

Stay at the Grand Hotel Miramare: a gracious, 75-roomed ‘old lady’ offering superb, 21st-century service; a tempting, beachfront deck and dazzling views over the intense emerald green sea.

Visit the Baroque Santa Margherita di Antiochia Basilica featuring a display of Genoese art; and the 16th-century Villa Durazzo Centurione (on the hill of San Giacomo, overlooking the ‘Corte’ district). Relax in the wonderful gardens that surround the villa: the Italian-style garden; the small English wood; the 18th-century park and the citrus orchard. (Open Tues – Sunday.) Then take a boat trip to the enticing ‘sand and pebble beach’ in the Bay of Paraggi.

Lying 4kms north of Santa Margherita is the largest town on the Levante Riviera: aristocratic Rapallo. Steeped in history, the city was frequented by D.H. Lawrence and is known to historians as the venue for two post-1918 treaties and to movie buffs for the 1954 movie: ‘The Barefoot Contessa’. Rapallo boasts two leisure ports, the churches of San Gervasio and San Protasio, and is renowned for the ancient craft of lace making. Its steep, narrow streets are abuzz with boutiques and wonderful seafood restaurants.