Pimalai Resort and Spa by John Borthwick

The Thai word “pimalai” connotes flower gardens and purity. Appropriately, it is the name of a new five-star resort that overlooks the Andaman Sea on the southern island of Ko Lanta Yai (known simply as Ko Lanta). A true five-star resort, its terraced lawns and a flight of breezy, high-ceilinged pavilions — sheltering the dining room, bar and reception areas — descend towards an almost uninhabited beach.

Admirably, the Thai owners did not clear-fell the existing casuarina, cashew and palm plantations just so their brochure could promise “sea views” from each of Pimalai’s 75 rooms and suites. The sea glimpses-with-foliage from my balcony are sufficient.

The resort has 75 luxury rooms and suites, most of which enjoy westerly, seawards aspects. The rooms are substantial and spacious, and like Pimalai's public areas and spa, generously enhanced with marble, teak and rattan features. Pimalai's architecture is reminiscent of a Balinese hideaway with its pavilions, pools and terraced lawns stepping down towards the beachfront Rak Talay restaurant. Forty hectares of mature trees enfold the resort. Meanwhile, its “front doorstep” is Ba Kan Tiang, a crescent beach of kilometre-long crescent of white sand and water music. On the horizon sits the ruined city-like silhouette of Ko Ha island that invariably features in your sunset musings.

Ko Lanta Yai, 70 km south of Krabi on the Gulf of Thailand, is a lush, mostly undeveloped island where the excursion options include excellent off-shore diving and a fun elephant ride-cum-waterfall trek. The island is lush, rugged and lovely; it is 27 km long, very hot in April and has unsealed roads. The name Lanta means “fish-grilling rack” and among its 20,000 population are numerous sea gypsies and Moslem fishing families.

On Ba Kan Tiang beach, in contrast to Pimalai’s rich endowment of marble, is its beachside neighbour, a restaurant that seems to be built mostly from driftwood. “Same Same But Different” is an eatery whose naming fun is only matched by that of its food. Even the humble seafood fried rice ($2 a plate) is delicious. Even few staffers from Pimalai enjoy lunch here.