Pension Nossek by Jamie Dunford Wood

The Pension Nossek has been recommended by scores of guides, and for good reason - it’s central, quiet, charming and affordable, all qualities which are near impossible to find grouped together in a major European city. The sign on the grand Viennese door to the street is very Third Man - Pension Nossek, it says, next to a number of what could be detective agencies. But it is very much a pension and not a hotel - facilities are limited, dining is restricted to breakfast, and the feel of the place is one of being a paying guest in someone else’s home. For example you wouldn’t feel comfortable trashing your room after a schnapps-fuelled binge on the town, nor would you be encouraged to make much noise doing it.

You probably wouldn’t get up the spiral stairs in any case, and you’d surely sober up waiting for the ancient wrought iron lift to arrive.

But these are small penalties to put up with. It’s cosy and overheated in winter, like many Austrian hotels, and its parquet flooring and plain décor make it cool in summer. Besides, you can open the windows without fear of traffic noise, as the wide street below is pedestrianised, though revelers, other than yourself, may keep you up. Pale egg custard yellow walls and original stucco picked out in white lend a rare elegance to the rooms, at this price, and they are mostly of a decent size with high ceilings. The ones to go for are the suites - at just a few euros more you get your own mini-apartment, each with a little hand basin as well as attached bathrooms, though the one on the first floor has only a shower, like many of the ordinary rooms. If you have to watch TV, you can ask for one to be installed. Only continental breakfast is served, though buffet breakfast has been ordered for 2003 - things happen very slowly in Vienna. Prices will doubtless creep slowly upwards too. The breakfast room is relaxed and very friendly. A charming gemudlicht house in the very heart of old Vienna.