Pendle Witch Country by Mark Davidson

Boil, boil, toil and trouble, add toad and newt and let it bubble!

You can imagine it now, a witches coven, cauldron and scatty old ladies casting spells over those whom they had a dislike for. With pointed hats and broomsticks sat in the corner and a black cat to keep them company.

Yet, was it really fact or fiction?

The Slopes of Pendle

It all started with two families who lived on the slopes of Pendle, led by two women, Elizabeth Southerns, alias Demdike and Anne Whittle, alias Chattox. Unfortunately, they had to be the bread winners of each family as the men of the house were long deceased. As the money earners they had to beg, steal or borrow in any way they could.

One day, Demdike’s grand daughter, Alizon Device, cursed a peddler, John Law, after he refused her some pins whilst she was begging in Trawden forest. Allegedly, he fell to the ground suffering a stroke. It was assumed that she had perpetrated witchcraft upon him.

This set off a chain of events which were to have tragic consequences for both sets of families. In the coming months, Demdike for example had been asked to heal a sick cow which then died and Chattox reputedly turn ale sour at an inn in Highham. Nothing like a bad pint is there?

This all culminated in ten people being hung for the crime of witchcraft. On the way to the gallows it was reported that a number stopped off at the Golden Lion Pub where they had their last drink. Even being forced to pay for the ale with their own money! As the events came to pass a noose was placed around each and everyone of their necks and they were left to hang in the wind until they were limp and lifeless.

A Misconception

Despite the fate of those who were hung there is still a misconception about what they looked like.

People assume they flew about on broomsticks, with images often depicting them with the faithful feline familiar by their side. However, the broomsticks may be more to do with fertility rituals of pagan women than any thing to do with magic and mysticism. They used to jump over a plant whilst straddling a broomstick to try and encourage the crops to grow tall and strong. The witches hat may derive from the wearing of horns as a sign of power!

But whatever you may think of hats, cauldrons and broomsticks, those that met their death in an untimely manner, were beggars at worse and were no more able to cast a spell than anyone else.

Despite what happened in the 17th century people of today talk about the local history with a sense of pride.

The Centrepiece of the Legend

The centrepiece of the legend and stories is Pendle Hill; rising to 1,831 feet above sea level, and only 169 feet short of being classed as a mountain. On a clear day one of the three peaks, Ingleborough can be seen in the distance. Despite it's height, the walk is well worth it. Starting at Barley you can reach the summit in under an hour for those who are fit and able. However, it is virtually impossible for those in wheelchairs to reach the top as there are many obstacles en-route.

The hill also overlooks the village of Sabden and each Halloween large numbers of tourists and locals alike make their way to the top with lanterns in hand, wearing fancy dress.

If you can't wait for Halloween there are plenty of opportunities to learn about the history of Lancashire’s most famous residents.

A good starting point is Pendle Heritage centre in the village of Barrowford. Owned by the Heritage Trust, it is open to visitors all the year round; incorporating a museum, art gallery, gift shop, tea-room, 18th Century walled garden, cruck barn with farmyard animals and Tourist Information. Here you can discover the history of the Pendle witches.

The Witches Grave

Following on, you can visit the parish church at Colne, built in the 10th century by Robert de Lacey, the 2nd Baron of Pontefract. There used to be stocks where many criminals of the time faced punishment. The phrase "to be pilloried" comes from the time when this was used as a form of punishment. It allowed many undesirables to be pelted with rotten fruit and vegetables and perhaps anything else that came to hand!

The parish of Goldshaw Booth, now known as the village of Newchurch is worth a visit. The parish church has the Eye of God on the bell tower. It was thought by local parishioners to protect them from evil. Within the graveyard is the alleged grave of the Nutter family, known locally as the 'Witches Grave'. Despite plenty of weathering, it is possible to make out the shape of a skull and crossbones. The name of Nutter on the gravestone has misled many people into believing that this is where Alice Nutter is buried. Within the village there is a famous souvenir shop called Witches Galore. Sat outside, keeping guard are three lovely ladies, who witch, I mean watch, your every movement!

To see where some of the protagonists lived perhaps make your way to Roughlee. The residence of Alice Nutter was the old Hall, known locally as 'Witches Hall'. There used to be a small spinning mill in the village and its attendant reservoir. It was a local attraction for many years. After the mill closed, it was used as a boating lake and for swimming in the summer months. There is a chapel here in which John Wesley, the founder of the Methodist Church, once preached.

Locations Worth Visiting

One site that cannot be seen is Malkin Tower, where a great gathering of witches took place on Good Friday in 1612. Blacko Tower has been mistaken for the location, yet it was built in 1891 by Johnathon Stansfield, a local shopkeeper. It is often referred to as Johnathon’s Folly.
 
There are a number of other locations worth visiting. Clitheroe castle, an eight hundred year old Norman keep has a museum displaying plenty of information on the times of the 17th century. The 13th century abbey at Whalley was portrayed in the 19th century novel by Harrison Ainsworth, "The Lancashire Witches", giving you a sense of the religious persecution that took place at the time. As a suspected catholic, Alice Nutter was a target for those who saw Catholicism as anathema.

Despite not being open to the public, Read Hall, which can be seen from distance was the residence of Roger Nowell, who was the local magistrate, sending the accused for trial.

If you want to travel further affield you can make your way to Lancaster Castle where the trials of the accused took place.

Despite there being plenty of unhappiness and sadness at the fate of those tried, condemned and finally executed, it hasn't stopped a thriving industry of souvenirs and merchandise.

Moorehouses brewery, based in Burnley, has, like a number of local industries, embraced the folklore with a number of beers that will tantalise any discerning palate. Their prize winning ale is Pendles Witches Brew and for special occasions they produce, among others, Witchfinder General, Broomstick Bitter and Black Cat.

There have also been a number of books about the history bestowed on the area. Harrison Ainsworth’s novel and Robert Neill’s book 'Mist Over Pendle' tell the story of the trials and tribulations that took place, yet the only true account of the trial was that written by Thomas Potts who was clerk of the court at that time.
 
There is even a bus service with a difference, the Witch Way. Travel from Nelson to Manchester on a fleet of buses each named after one of the witches.

Is it Accessible?

The Pendle Heritage Centre welcomes disabled visitors, with the Parlour Shop, Tea-Room and Tourist Information Centre all at ground floor level. The Walled Garden is easily accessible and there are wheelchair-accessible lavatories in two buildings.

Parts of the grounds at Whalley Abbey may be difficult to access by disabled visitors, however the visitor centre is fully accessible.

The Witch Way bus service is fully accessible for those in wheelchairs.

Those That Were Hanged at Lancaster

Alizon Device, Elizabeth Device, James Device, Chattox, Anne Redferne, Alice Nutter, Katherine Hewitt, John Bulcock, Jane Bulcock & Isobel Robey.