Party Island: the Ultimate Guide to Ibiza by Jenny Pidgeon
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I had my glowsticks and micro-miniskirts carefully stowed away in my bags, along with a few litres of suncream and enough bikinis and sarongs to keep up with what is perhaps the most fashionable beach scene in the world after Rio de Janeiro. I’d been catching up on my sleep for weeks in preparation for the coming fortnight, and my brain was overflowing with must-not-miss recommendations and enticingly wicked stories from friends who’d all ‘been there and done that’. I was finally on my way to the clubbing capital of the world, an island renowned for its free spirit and love of all manner of excess since the 1960s. I could be heading for only one destination: Ibiza.
General Background
Ibiza is one of the five Balearic Islands off the Western coast of Spain - best known, of course, for its year-round sun, sea, sand, sex and whole-hearted embracing of the all-night and all-day beach party. Every summer the place is mobbed by the beautiful and the young from all over the world, each searching for the ultimate in hedonistic fun-in-the-sun. The innovative music scene in Ibiza has been so influential that its trademark genre of chilled-out dance music has come to be known as ‘Balearic House’, and the place has made superstars out of previously anonymous DJs who have now been catapulted to celebrity status. What began as small bars and underground clubs have spawned whole empires, and international club nights such as Manumission and Miss Moneypennys are now global brandnames.
Although the island’s huge tourist industry is geared unashamedly towards these 18-30 ‘up for it’ types, Ibiza does in fact have a lot to offer families and the less nocturnally-minded visitor. For those who manage to tear themselves away from the intoxicating atmosphere of the beach resorts and 24 hour parties (or who wouldn’t dream of ever finding themselves there in the first place), there is a wealth of history and culture to be found in the interior of the island and also in the ancient capital city of Eivissa - Ibiza Town.
A Short History of Ibiza
The city was first founded by the Carthaginians in 654 BC, reflecting the fact that the island had been an important trading port for ancient Phoenician seafarers for many years. In fact, archaeological evidence has been unearthed which suggests that humans have been enjoying the perfect white sandy beaches and unbroken sunshine of the Balearics since 5000 BC. Carthage was overthrown by the Romans, and subsequently the Visigoths, until the Moors invaded in the 8th Century. There followed three hundred years of Muslim control over the Balearics, the influences of which can still be seen in the food, architecture and traditional dress of the islanders. However, the Christian Reconquest against the Muslim Infidel, which battled its way down through the Spanish mainland under Jaime I, reached Ibiza in 1238 and the island was officially amalgamated into what would become modern Spain.
After the fall of Franco in the 1950s, Ibiza proved the perfect place for Spaniards to celebrate their newfound freedoms, and the Iberians enthusiastically embraced the bikini and beach lifestyle which had previously been forbidden under the regime. Word began to spread of the fantastic beauty and pristine sandy beaches to be found on this small Spanish island, and it began to attract hippies and holiday makers from all over the world. Ibiza became famous in the 60s for its nudist beaches and laid-back culture, which can still be found at the ‘hippy market’ at Playa das Canar near Santa Eulalia every Wednesday. It’s great fun browsing through the weird and the wonderful arts and crafts on display, from the usual smoking paraphernalia and garishly multi-coloured clothes to the more unusual bottom-playing flutes - which could come in handy on one of the infamous nudist beaches for those wanting to indulge in a bit of novel music-making.
Ibiza remained a fairly quiet and off-the-beaten track destination, catering mainly for the hippy scene and adventurous members of the international jet set who were looking for something different to the French or Italian Riviera. The man who has been credited with changing all that is Spanish DJ Alfredo, who started mixing 80’s US house with reggae, new wave and pop, creating a totally new sound which, as legend has it, caught the ears of four young men on their annual holiday to Ibiza. Paul Oakenfold, Danny Rampling, Trevor Fung & Nicky Holloway were to take this music and turn it into a global phenomenon, and that momentous summer of 1987 has been inscribed in the Balearic history books as ‘The First Summer of Love’. It was to be the first of many, and this 15-year-old reputation of Ibiza as having the most exciting music and club scene in the world was the reason why I, and thousands of others, had gathered together in our star-spangled bikinis and wacky body paint on this otherwise unremarkable island in the Mediterranean.
Clubs in Ibiza
The clubbing scene in Ibiza is now a huge business – some of the venues are among the largest, most flamboyantly impressive clubs in the world and every summer they attract top celebs and the best DJ’s on the planet. Massive multinational superclubs such as Cream and Pacha rule the roost, but there are plenty of smaller venues which play more experimental music to a varied but consistently energetic and enthusiastic crowd. Whether you are looking for blissed-out beats on a lazy sunny afternoon or eardrum shattering techno at 5 in the morning you’ll be able to find it in Ibiza. Just remember that things don’t kick off till about 1am at the earliest and then keep on going right through the night, so don’t start too early or you’ll be asleep before sunrise.
One of the classic Ibiza experiences is dancing ‘al fresco’ to great music as the dawn breaks and a new day of unadulterated fun begins. Also note that many of the clubs in Ibiza have considerable door charges, and you should budget for this when planning your holiday – you don’t want to miss out on anything because you haven’t brought enough cash. Lastly, bring your most glamorous and outlandish costumes to wear – this is the place to see and be seen, where anything goes and you’ll never look weirder than the guy dancing next to you.
Everyone has their favourite nightclub and, although they are all great fun and offer a clubbing experience you won’t find anywhere else in the world, I would have to say that my choice would be KM5 on the South coast of the island near San Jose. It started life as a fairly small bar-cum-club, but that is all changing and many predict that this is another ‘superclub’ in the making. KM5 attracts the more sophisticated and older clubbers on the island who prefer to leave the overhyped, generic staples to the teeny boppers (although you might be forgiven for thinking that KM5 had returned to its former incarnation as a brothel after glimpsing the decidedly unsophisticated antics of some visitors hidden amongst the tropical vegetation). Its main attraction, other than great music and a secluded out-of-the-way situation, is the beautiful garden which has been transformed into a haven for those wanting to while away the hours in hammocks slung up between Moroccan-style tents and luxurious scatter cushions. Spend a whole afternoon here, sampling the great food on offer and preparing yourself for a night on the dancefloor.
Some other clubs in Ibiza worth going to include the following:
Amnesia: This is where it all started; DJ Alfredo’s home and epicentre of that first Summer of Love. The scene at Amnesia was the catalyst for the huge rise of acid house in the UK and the club is still a favourite among many British visitors. Big nights Cream and Godskitchen are hosted here, as is the notorious gay night La Troya Asesina and the foam parties which have become something of a legend among Ibizan clubbers. (amnesia.es)
Eden: Built in the 1980’s and formerly known as Kaos, this club underwent massive renovation in 1999 and it is now pulling the crowds back in with British DJs such as Dave Pearce and Judge Jules from Radio One gracing the decks. Dress up, this place is very glam. (edenibiza.com)
Es Paradis: This club has been running for more than 25 years, yet it is still one of the most visually stunning venues worldwide. Dance the night away among towering marble columns and sweeping staircases, or boogie down outside on the terrace. Wherever you find yourself, you can be as outrageous as you dare in this club renowned for extravagance. (esparadisibiza.com)
Pacha: Perhaps one of the most famous clubs in the world, Pacha likes to think of itself as being classy and cosmopolitan. It is a star among the superclubs of Ibiza and rightly so – dancing al fresco on the terrace watching the sun come up is an unforgettable experience. Ministry of Sound are residents here, and the funky house that the place has become renowned for is so definitive that it is widely known as the ‘Pacha sound’. (pacha.com)
El Divino: Much smaller than these other clubs, but with an ultra-glam reputation and boasting big names such as Roger Sanchez. Its superb position in the centre of the Ibiza Town marina means that it is but a short stroll for its image-conscious clientele as they step off their luxury yachts and gin-palaces. (el-divino.com)
Privilege: This massive venue truly is a superclub – so large that it even has trees planted in the main dancefloor. The DJs famously hang, suspended, over a swimming pool, and you can divide your time between here, the garden bars and the chill-out dome, ending up in the glass-roofed room to watch the sunrise as you continue to boogie the night (or, rather, the morning) away. (privilege-ibiza.com)
Space: The infamous venue for ‘We Love Sundays’ which has been called by many ‘the ultimate Ibiza experience’. You’ll just have to go and check it out for yourself to decide, but the great atmosphere, fantastic terrace and incredibly beautiful crowd should go some way to ensuring that it comes pretty close. (space-ibiza.com)
The Ibiza Gay Scene
The gay scene has been very influential in making Ibiza the partyzone that it is today and the relaxed atmosphere that established itself in the swinging 60’s has appealed to gay holidaymakers ever since. Such is the influence of Gay Culture on the island that Ibiza has come to be known as the ‘Pink Island’, rather than its normal epithet the ‘White Island’ (which refers to the typical architecture found all over the island). In the Sa Penya district of Ibiza Town you will find many gay bars, particularly at the end of Calle Mare de Deu or Calle Virgen. The big clubs such as Pacha and Privilege regularly host gay nights which attract a mixture of clientele and I would recommend that everyone goes to at least one just to experience the friendly but outrageous atmosphere and great costumes that the gay community has become renowned for.
For more information on the gay scene in Ibiza, check out the following websites:
gayibiza.net - The guide to the best clubs, bars and restaurants in Ibiza.
queenscene.com - Holidays from specialist gay & lesbian tour operators
Drugs
Something that should be mentioned when talking about clubbing in Ibiza in the drug culture. House music evolved in underground clubs where ecstasy and other drugs played an integral part in the development of the genre. It is something that you probably will encounter at some point during your stay in Ibiza, but don’t let that put you off if you are looking for fun fuelled only by natural adrenalin and generous Spanish measures of alcohol – the exhilarating music and whole experience of dancing in such extravagant surroundings will be more than enough to ensure that everybody has a great time. The local police are very aware of the situation, as are the clubs themselves, and I never felt frightened or threatened in any way by the evidence of drug-taking around me.
Bars in Ibiza
Of course you’ll need to warm up somewhere before heading off to one of the clubs, and Ibiza has a mind-boggling array of bars to choose from. In fact every beach and cove, no matter how small, boasts a shack selling cold beer and the odd fried fish to the strains of a battered ghettoblaster. However, there are other bars which are extremely well-established and host entertainment as sophisticated and long-lasting as any of the big clubs. Perhaps the most famous is the Café del Mar, legendary as the birthplace and epicentre of the chilled out beach vibe. The bar that has launched music labels and rocketed DJs to celebrity status has been going for more than 20 years and is, quite rightly, an Ibizan institution.
Café del Mar and the others around San Antonio are particularly good pre-club venues because of their setting on the Western side of the island - watching the sunset whilst sitting in the hot-tub in Bar M sipping a large rum and coke was one of the highlights of my holiday. The pre-clubbing scene in Bar M (M is for Manumission) and the following selection of bars is renowned, and some nights we got so carried away dancing on their beachside terraces that we never even made it to the club. A good tip is to pick up flyers in these bars for your chosen destination for the evening which will then get you a discount on the door. This is worth doing as some of the big clubs are now monstrously expensive (but worth it! – who comes to Ibiza to save money?).
Other good bars around San Antonio include:
- Kanga
- Café Mambo
- Mezzanine
- Savannah
- Coastline
Ibiza Town:
- Base & Dome – two very trendy and chic bars catering for the rich beautiful folk
- Sunset Café – more of a chilled out afternoon vibe
- Mike & Claire’s Diner – with the only 24 hour licence on the island
- Rock Bar – the place to spot celebs
Playa d’en Bossa:
- Bora Bora – the infamous ‘miniclub’, famed for its daytime parties and outrageous nights
- Kiss – favourites among the younger and, dare I say it, more tacky crowd in Ibiza
- Jockey Club – on Cala Jondal beach, this old favourite is the perfect place to relax by day, and really kicks into its own at night
- Sa Trincha – I’ve saved the best till last. This legendary bar on Salinas beach has deservedly earned a reputation as the best beach bar in Ibiza, on one of the best beaches. Ibiza institution DJ Jonathan still bangs out the tunes 4 days a week - fantastic.
Other Nightlife in Ibiza
For live music you can try the Concierto Bar Pereyra or the Baluarte de Santa Llucia in Ibiza Town, and Las Dalias in the interior of the island. For classical music try the Iglesia de Santo Domingo and the Ayuntamiento (Town Hall). There are also occasionally concerts at big venues such as Privilege which you can find out about on their websites. For live music listings and more up to date information check the local newspapers.
If you’re looking for a good night out that doesn’t involve dancing, or you want to try something different before heading off to one of the clubs, you could try The Hippodrome. This renovated horse race track holds races twice a week during the summer, normally on Thursdays and Saturdays. The races start around midnight and generally go on till around 2.30am. The Hippodrome also hosts the Ibiza Jove rock music festival held annually at the beginning of August.
For those who like this sort of thing, there is the huge Casino de Ibiza on Paseo Juan Carlos I. For games, fruit machines, a couple of restaurants and a cheesy piano bar you need look no further than this temple to consumerism and gambling (which perversely tries to redeem itself by hosting a cultural programme of art, sculpture and photography exhibitions). Take a look yourself at casinoibiza.com.
Beaches in Ibiza
After all that manic partying, you need to know where to go and chill out during the day. Remember to bring your sunglasses, although nowadays they’re more de rigeur on the club terrace at sunrise than on the beach at midday. Ibiza has some truly beautiful beaches and they are also among the cleanest in the Mediterranean, with the Balearics usually picking up prestigious Blue Flags from the EU Commission for the Environment. Although some of them have been spoiled by ugly high-rise hotel developments and overcrowding, there are still some little gems hidden away which you will share with only a handful of people, particularly if you go out of season or venture up to the north of the island. I would particularly recommend Benirras, Agua Blanca and Las Salinas beaches, but each has its own individual character and atmosphere and it is worth trying a few out before you decide where you’re going to perfect that golden tan.
For a mellow beach vibe in the north of the island try:
- Cala de Benirras – perhaps the most famous beach on the north coast, a favourite with the hippy contingent who accompany the beautiful sunsets with bongo drumming.
- Cala de Portinax and the nearby Cala Xarraca
- Agua Blanca – if you don’t mind the odd bit of nudity
In the East you will find a mixture of family and full-on party beaches:
- Playa das Canar – home to the Wednesday hippy market
- Playa de S’Eularia – Canar and Eularia are both quite family-orientated beaches
- Playa d’en Bossa – lays claim to being the longest beach on Ibiza, and home to the notorious free beach party ‘Bora Bora’, but somewhat spoiled by tourist development
In the South there’s a wide variety of moods and scenery:
- Playa des Cavallet – Ibiza’s official nudist beach with big dunes and a big gay scene
- Playa das Salinas – dubbed by many the best beach on the island and it’s easy to see why; long stretch of white sand, great bars and food, good watersports and a trendy crowd
- Cala Jondal – for a bit of quiet during the day
- Cala d’Hort – another chilled out beach with great views of Es Vedra island
In the West, always a good bet for a romantic sunset or two:
- Cala Salada – set in a beautiful cove and perfect for watching a peaceful sunset
- Cala Conta – a group of beaches with good watersports, snorkelling and bars
If you’re getting annoyed with that sand-between-your-toes-and-in-your-sandwiches feeling, then you could always make your way to one of Ibiza’s waterparks, which also have the advantage of great slides, wave machines, changing rooms, showers and safe children’s play areas. Two of the biggest are Aguamar in Platja d’en Bossa and Agialandia in Cap Martinet, which are both open every day in the summer from 10am – 6pm and are not too expensive.
Where to Stay: Hotels in Ibiza
If you’re going to Ibiza purely for the nightlife and clubbing scene, then there are really only two choices of where to stay – around Ibiza Town on the east coast or in San Antonio on the west.
‘San An’, as it is affectionately known, is full-to-bursting with young party animals in the summer months, and it has a wide range of cheap ‘n cheerful accommodation to reflect this. It is certainly the place to be for bars and nightlife, and while the concrete blocks and indistinguishable Irish pubs offering full cooked breakfasts might not appeal to everyone, San An is particularly popular among British visitors. There is also another side to San Antonio; when the closing parties are over and the ravers have all packed up and gone home, the town welcomes back families and those seeking a quieter holiday who are still keen to make the most of the facilities and beautiful beaches nearby.
Ibiza Town is a good choice for those who want lots going on, but who do want to venture outside the dark and sweaty inside of a club at some point during their holiday. It has a fantastic selection of bars and clubs, but it also has an interesting old town to explore, extensive shopping facilities, and the marina which is the perfect place for sitting in a waterfront bar and watching the weird and wonderful world that is Ibiza pass by.
Playa d’en Bossa and Figueretes are the two resorts joining on to Ibiza Town which really cater for the out-and-out clubbers and they tend to attract the younger end of the party-seeking crowd. There are innumerable bars, clubs, cheap eateries and constant music and festivities going down on the beaches which are lined with high-rise hotels.
But it is not just those seeking the thrills of the nightclubs who are attracted to Ibiza – the guaranteed sunshine and natural beauty of the place also attract families and holidaymakers who are looking for an entirely different experience to that which has made the island famous. Here are three suggestions for more family-orientated resorts in Ibiza:
- Santa Eulalia: has worked hard to cultivate its reputation as the cultural and gastronomic centre of Ibiza (although Ibiza town also has a lot to offer in these respects as well). The resort is geared towards families and older people, offering good restaurants, art galleries, an attractive marina and a varied but fairly sedate nightlife.
- Es Cana: near Santa Eulalia, but much smaller, with a long, pretty beach and a small harbour which is a good place to watch local fishing boats and sample great fresh fish.
- Portinatx: in the north, a small but self-contained resort which is ideal for families who don’t want to have to move too far from their hotel to find good beaches and a range of restaurants and bars that aren’t full of clubbers dressed up in crazy gear which might scare the children.
(For a range of family-friendly places to stay on the island, see our selection of family hotels in Ibiza.)
Culture and Places of Interest in Ibiza
Ibiza has a lot to offer on the wider cultural front. It is well worth dragging yourself away from your sunlounger for a couple of days during your stay to experience some of the rest of the island, which has interesting historical monuments and numerous sites of natural interest to visit. The best place to start is the capital Ibiza Town, which is dominated by the ancient walled town of D’Alt Vila – still laid out as it was in the Carthaginian era with winding cobbled streets to explore which command fantastic views out over the marina. In the evening it’s a great place for a stroll, looking into small boutique shops and having a drink in one of the many little bars you can find tucked away, before eating in a romantic restaurant such as the Restaurante Can den Parra at 3 Calle San Rafael (Tel: 971 391 114) for typical Spanish cuisine, or the Plaza del Sol also in the old walled city (Tel: 971 390 773) for international food and incredible views over the bay.
For further listings of restaurants in Ibiza Town, and elsewhere on the island, check out the comprehensive ibiza-restaurants.com.
You can visit the cathedral which sits atop the D’Alt Vila, open every day and with free entrance. There is also an archaeological museum in the Plaza Catedral open Tuesday – Sunday with a large collection of Punic artefacts, and the Puig des Molins, a massive graveyard of over 400 Carthaginian tombs, open on Sundays. Other areas of interest in Ibiza Town are the Port area with its eclectic mixture of classy shops and hippy cafes and bars (A great place to watch the carnavalesque club promotions and fashion parades of the luxury yacht crowd in the evenings), the City Centre with shops and restaurants, and Sa Penya most famous for its gay bars and boutiques.
The traditional arts and crafts of Ibiza are still very much in evidence in the local markets, particularly in the small villages in the interior of the island. These items can make good presents and souvenirs, especially if you want to convince friends that you did more with your two weeks than dance away the small hours in a club before collapsing on the beach every day to recuperate. Perhaps the best market for picking up traditional pieces such as woven basketware, straw hats, ceramics, embroidery and leather goods is at Las Dalias every Saturday from 11am – 8pm. You can also find crafts at the Hippodromo market in San Jordi also on Saturday from 9am, and the town hall in Ibiza Town runs workshops for those who want to try their hand at painting, clothes design and cloth-weaving. Then there is the famous Hippy Market or ‘Punta Arabi’ at Es Canar, which harks back to the halcyon days of the 60s when travellers, who found they didn’t want to move on from Ibiza, eeked out a meagre living by making and selling jewellery and artware. For modern artwork you can visit the Galeria Carl van der Voort and the cultural centre of Sa Nostra, both in Ibiza Town.
Festivals in Ibiza
Every settlement on the island, right down to the smallest hamlet, has its own patron saint who naturally has to be celebrated with an annual festival of music and dancing. Some of the main festivals worth checking out through the year are:
- January 17th San Antonio Fiesta Patronal
- February Carnaval – street parties as crazy and debauched as anything in Brazil
- March 12th Santa Eulalia Fiesta Patronal
- Easter Semana Santa processions in Ibiza City and throughout the island
- June 24th Fuegos de San Juan – fantastic fireworks display over Ibiza City
- July 16th La Virgen del Carmen – procession for the Patron Saint of sailors
- August 5th Fiesta of Nuestra Senora de las Nieves, patron of Ibiza & Formentera
- August Folklore festival in Ibiza Town at the end of August
If you have a car (which I highly recommend for escaping to the more remote beaches) then it is easy and fun to explore the hilly interior of the island, dotted with small white villages and offering great views out over the turquoise sea. Although the sun is unrelenting during the summer months, the island remains fairly green - in fact Ibiza & Formentera are known collectively as ‘las Islas Pitiusas’ after the pine trees which forest much of the islands. You can also walk among olive groves, bourgainvillea and hibiscus; perfect for those times when you’ve had enough of intoxicating your body and want to get back into nature again. Just don’t be tempted to drive to bars and clubs in the evenings - there is a ‘clubbing bus’ which connects the major resorts with the most popular clubs, and it runs regularly throughout the night. Or, if your legs are up to it, you may decide to join the many people who choose to walk home in the early morning light, which is a beautiful and calming way to end a great night out.
Other advantages of having a car at your disposal is the freedom to hop in and go and take a look at some of the following places of interest:
- Cueva Can Marca: These caves can be found above San Miguel beach and are easy to get to if you just follow the road around the right-hand side of the Puerto de San Miguel, up to the top of the cliffs. They were once occupied by pirates and treasure hoarders, but have now been restored and are full of beautiful stalagtites and stalagmites of luminescent colours.
- Las Salinas Salt Flats: Right on the southern tip of the island you’ll find one of the most photogenic views in Ibiza. The salt lakes evaporate in the summer, leaving a crust of pure white salt exposed to the sun, sparkling and truly sunset-enhancing.
- Formentera Island: Although you might have to leave the car behind, I would certainly recommend spending a day in this smaller and much quieter sister island of Ibiza. You can go from Ibiza Town in regular ferries or hydrofoils, and there are plenty of beautiful beaches and some nice cafes and restaurants to winkle out once you’ve got there.
The Ibitren – for those who didn’t quite get round to hiring a car: for the ultimate in tacky excursions, take a ride on the miniture ‘Ibitren’ which departs from both San Antonio and Santa Eulalia. You might feel like you’re back on the cup-and-saucer ride at Alton Towers, but the train is a cheap and fun way to see a bit of scenery and getting some great views without having to lift a finger – the perfect hangover activity.
Sport in Ibiza
For the insane among you who want to do sport on your holidays (as if dancing for hours every night wasn’t enough!) there are plenty of options in Ibiza:
- Horseriding: Hire horses from a number of stables and explore the island that way
- Golf: The 27 hole Club de Golf Ibiza is situated in Santa Eulalia
- Diving: There are numerous dive centres at San Antonio, Portinatx and Cala Vadella, offering dives for both experienced and beginner divers.
- Tennis: there are some very swanky sports clubs in Ibiza which have top-rate tennis courts such as the Ahmara Sport & Social Centre, Club de - Campo & Club Can Jordi: these clubs also offer other facilties such as badminton & squash, gyms and pools.
Practical Information
Tourist Information:
Ibiza Town: 2 Calle Antonio Riquer Tel: 971 301 900
San Antonio: Passeig de Ses Fonts Tel: 971 343 363
Airport Information Tel: 091 809 000
Emergency Service Tel: 092
British Consulate - 45 Avenida Isidoro Macabich, Ibiza Town. Tel: 971 301 818
Police – you should report any thefts or petty crime to the Policia Local In San Antonio Tel: 971 343 911
Red Cross run a 24 hour ambulance service Tel: 971 390 303
For general information try the following websites:
ibiza-online.com
ibiza-spotlight.com - two comprehensive sites with general information
ibizanewsletter.com - free weekly publication for Ibiza and Formentera
ananova.com - for current news stories in Ibiza
Or, for a range of the best places to stay on the island, check out our full collection of luxury hotels in Ibiza.