Paradise Cove Hotel by Sue Carpenter

A compact but charming resort on the north coast, in a spot that is both secluded and near civilisation at Grand Baie (for retail therapy). It makes up for its shortcomings on the accommodation front by offering excellent all-inclusive extras, such as a day trip in their sparkling white 38 ft catamaran. There’s lots happening here, from daytime activities to evening entertainment, but with no kids’ club, it tends to attract couples and friends, who enjoy the intimacy of scale and friendliness of staff. The cove itself is a horseshoe surrounding a shallow lagoon; the resort clusters around the cove in terraces, with a lovely pool and a small bar and restaurant. The styling is à la Mediterranean, with glazed pots of bougainvillea, lush gardens and cream-washed villa-style rooms. Service was variable and apt to come at the wrong times (a towel change at 11pm?), but it’s the sort of place where you build up a rapport with your waiter and get personal attention.

Beach
Sunbathing on the cute white sandy beach hugging the lagoon is slightly congested but pleasant, with hammocks strung among the palm trees. A few steps over a hill is the sparkling ocean, where boating activities are centred around the boathouse and pontoon.

Facilities
Unlimited free activities include deep sea fishing (marlin, barracuda, tuna), catamaran trips including a delicious barbecue lunch, bicycling, waterskiing, windurfing, hobie cat sailing, archery, tennis and the gym, sauna and steam room. There is also an undersea walk, which you do without an aqualung, by wearing a heavy glass and metal contraption like a Dickensian carriage lamp over your head, which makes you sink to the seabed. Scary at first, but a great opportunity if you’re a non-diver. Small spa offers all sorts of massages (my ‘relaxing’ one sent me into instant oblivion). No business facilities, but when I asked if I could check my emails, I was given a staff desk for as long as I wanted.

Dining
A recent switch at La Belle Créole from buffet dining to à la carte bodes well. I found the buffet set-up bright and canteen-like, but imagine the ambience and quality of food will improve immensely now. You can also dine by candle and starlight on the terrace, but then you’re nearer the nightly entertainment (dinner-dance bands, traditional sega dancers), which may or may not be a bonus, according to taste. Breakfasts, with tropical fruits, fresh-baked mini pâtisseries and fresh-squeezed juices, are delicious. Honeymooners can breakfast or dine in an enchanting paillote (thatched gazebo) overlooking the lagoon. At lunchtime the paillotes become part of the seafood restaurant, La Cocoteraie. Also a beach bar near the boathouse for snack lunches.

Clientele
Mostly British couples, from older traditional types (lots of loyal return guests) to young honeymooners (you can even get married here). Families with older children are well catered for, but you’ll see mostly grown-ups.

Bedrooms
67 rooms in three-storey complexes – 47 deluxe standard, 18 junior suites, 2 senior suites. Perhaps it was unfair coming from the spacious Prince Maurice, but I found the rooms and bathrooms cramped and rather outdated, despite a recent refurb. I also have an antipathy towards those rustic painted plaster walls that can slash your arm as you brush past. All rooms have balconies facing the sea.