Ouseburn by Stephen Emms

Firstly, banish any memories of PJ and Duncan: Newcastle’s hippest new quarter may be a mere stone’s throw from Byker Grove, but that’s where the similarity ends. Back in the days when we were ready to rumble, however, Ouseburn was a frozen monument to its industrial past, with derelict factories, warehouses and mills lurking in the shadow of its Victorian bridges and viaducts. Now it’s the new creative heart of the city.

Industrial development came early to the Ouseburn area, and by the 17th-century mills and glassworks were whirring with production. Soon the valley became a thriving home to the coal, pottery, glass and flour industries. Following years of decline, its recent regeneration, kick-started by community-driven social enterprise rather than bland corporate business, has given the area’s unique architecture and quasi-rural riverside setting a new lease of life – in the form of pubs, live venues, independent cinemas and art galleries.

Shop

Galleries abound: the literally-named Biscuit Factory (Stoddart St) is now Europe’s largest centre for commercial art, and houses an eclectic collection of paintings, pottery and sculpture, whilst nearby the Art Works Galleries (Stepney Bank) sells the work of aspiring young talent from the North East. And whether you’ve brought the kids with you or not, it’s worth popping into the Grade II-listed Seven Stories (Lime St), a former flour mill that celebrates the heritage of children’s literature with exhibitions, events – and, of course, a huge bookshop.

See

St Dominic’s Priory (0191 259 2973) is the largest church in the city with a beautiful interior; but don’t miss Ralph Erskine’s pioneering Byker Wall either. The Star and Shadow (Stepney Bank), a transformed Tyne Tees warehouse, showcases a broad spectrum of independent cinema as well as performances and exhibitions. And to discover the next Maximo Park, or just check out some local upcoming bands, head to the Cluny (36 Lime St), a former flax mill which boasts a 250-capacity live venue.

Swallow

Start the evening with a cocktail or bite to eat (from a seasonal menu) at the elegant Malmaison (Quayside) – yes, another converted warehouse – which is also the closest hotel to the area. After that, head to one of half a dozen classic boozers, from the Tyne (Maling Street), with its alfresco riverside setting, or The Ship (Stepney Bank), a recently refurbished bar in the heart of Ouseburn, to the Cumberland Arms (James Place Street), the area’s best kept secret, with a shabby chic interior, a quaffable range of real ales, and, most spectacularly, a terrace with panoramic views over the Ouseburn to the Tyne.