Osterreichischer Hof (Hotel Sacher Salzburg) by Jamie Dunford Wood

This classic 19thC Salzburg hotel has been run by the Gurtler family, of Sacher fame, since 1988, hence the nudge towards the name change, but for many it will for ever be the Hof. Well positioned next to the river with views of the castle, the building is nevertheless not an architectural masterpiece, sitting block-like across from the old town with flags flying from the roof like a large government ministry. But it is an institution, though nothing at all like the delightful Sacher Hotel in Vienna in spirit or atmosphere. Everything feels heavy here, from the towering galleried reception area with its staircase up the middle, carpeted in red, to the ornate rooms decorated in rich colours and patterned carpets. They are furnished in upholstered repro furniture, and in some cases antiques, with old fashioned standing laps, and the whole hotel still has a Victorian, institutional feel. It will always be 'the' place to stay, especially during the Festival, and especially amongst Austrians; the Piano Bar is a wonderful place to sink down into a comfortable armchair amongst the gilt and the gold and red striped fabrics, and indulge in Sacher-Torte; but just as much as a visitor and not always as a guest, because Salzburg has other riches to offer the imaginative hotel traveller.

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