Naxos by Lucretia Stewart

Naxos is the largest and most beautiful of the Cyclades - or so the guidebooks always say. While it may lack the picture-postcard perfection of Mykonos or the drama of Santorini, I like it precisely because it is so big. You can lose yourself in Naxos. Away from the port and the more popular beaches, you can go for miles without encountering anyone other than the odd shepherd, and I have often stumbled across mountain villages or modest tavernas shaded by vines perched on a hillside that I have never been able to find again. From the strange moonscape of the high central region round Mount Zas, the highest peak in the Cyclades, to the lovely fertile valley and olive groves of the Tragea, to the sandy beaches along the southern coast, Naxos has something for everyone.

Naxos' roots lie deep in mythology - Theseus, on his way back from Crete after slaying the Minotaur in which endeavour he had been helped by Ariadne, daughter of the King of Crete, stopped there and abandoned Ariadne on the island. She took solace in the arms of Dionysus, Greek god of the vine. As you come into port, the first thing you see is a magnificent doorway silhouetted against the sea and skyline. This is all that remains of the unfinished Temple of Apollo, which was begun in 522 BC. Throughout the island there are a number of archaeological sites and ruins, notably three massive half-formed statues of reclining young men, kouroi dating from the mid-sixth-century BC. My favourite is the so-called Melanes kouros, which lies where it was found. The owners of the land have made a lovely garden around the statue and run a small café there. There is no charge for visiting the statue so it is a courtesy to spend a few drachmas on an ouzo and a saucer of meze. To reach the site, you drive through some of the most beautiful countryside in Naxos, all olive groves and terraced valleys, a landscape as old as time. The second of the two smaller kouroi lies further up the hill (ask at the café for directions). The third statue, which is about fifty years later, is much larger and cruder and lies at Apollon on the far side of the island. The drive takes over two hours on winding roads with hairpin bends but vaux bien le detour. Stop for a coffee or an ouzo at Apéiranthos, a ravishing secretive marble village about halfway to Apollon, known for its weaving and return along the north coast whose wild and magnificent scenery is among the loveliest on the island.

The island's more recent history is revealed in its buildings, which indicate a strong Venetian influence. Particularly striking are the pyrgoi, square fortified towers, which can be seen throughout the island. In the Kastro, the old Venetian walled castle, which towers above the port, many of the houses still bear Venetian coats-of-arms above the doorways - the Venetians ruled Naxos for over three hundred years from the beginning of the thirteenth century. Both the Roman Catholic Cathedral, which has some magnificent icons, and the archaeological museum are in the Kastro.

It is the combination of history, landscape and fine beaches that make Naxos such a joy to visit. Of course, you cannot hope to avoid completely groups of windsurfing nudists, but if you drive or take a bus to the further beaches, you will find only small groups of Greek families. My two favourite beaches are Pyrgaki and Agiassos, the latter reached by a very bad road. Turn right just before you come into the lovely Tragea town of Chalki (where there is a nice café in the old square under a huge plane tree). Both beaches have simple tavernas where you can get home cooking.

The main town, Chora, has exploded over the last five years; it is now full of trendy restaurants, bars and cafés with plate glass windows. The food, however, is generally as predictable as ever, particularly along the waterfront, and fish is expensive, but there are still a few traditional ouzerias and they are worth seeking out. One good restaurant is Elli’s on the Grotta side of town, which is quite different from the average taverna. The Meltemi restaurant specialises in fish and is consequently expensive, but it is in a wonderful position. It has, however, been rather superseded by the fish restaurant just beyond it, which is simply called Lalos Kanargio after the proprietor and has no sign. This serves only fresh fish and salads. If you don’t mind its rough and ready appearance, it probably serves the freshest food in Naxos. Naxos produces its own excellent white wine, Promponas, and a good hard cheese, graviera Naxou. Naxos’ best jeweller, Takis, has recently opened a wine shop, specialising in Greek wines, including his own label.