Naugh-tea, Naugh-tea by Devanshi Mody
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Anna, the Duchess of Bedford, suffering from “a sinking feeling” at about four o’ clock in the afternoon, created teatime. Adopting the European tea format, she invited friends to join her for an additional afternoon meal at 5 o’ clock in her rooms at Belvoir Castle. The meal incorporated sandwiches, cakes and, of course, tea. Today, afternoon tea in the world’s most luxurious hotels and salons de thé has become a most elaborate and exclusive affair, attracting a very elegant clientele.
Keeping alive tradition is The Dorchester’s Afternoon Tea, which won the prestigious Top London Afternoon Tea 2007 Award. Roman-style Marble columns crowned by gilded Corinthian capitals frame the sumptuous setting of the Promenade where the quintessentially English ritual of afternoon tea unfurls amidst a flourish of flowers and an exuberance of silks and brocades. The most exquisite finger sandwiches ever are followed by warm scones and a three-tiered platter of dainty pastries. Savour smoked salmon with High Tea or go for the Champagne Tea, and finish off on a high with a glass of pink champagne.
Wicked Tea at the Dorchester, is the naughtiest tea EVER! It’s a brand new take on the tradition of afternoon tea. At The Dorchester's sexy new bar with its fiery icicle decor, start with a heady chocolate Martini cocktail and then descend to the depths of decadence as you demolish a platter presenting a duo of cannelloni oozing with the most sinfully sumptuous chocolate, gorgeous, gorgeous dark and white chocolate finger sandwiches, chocolate muffins that melt in your mouth, racy raspberry and white chocolate shots.
Yes, it’s true- every item on the Wicked Tea contains one form or another of utterly irresistible, superbly subtle, exquisitely textured ultra luxury Luento Santoro chocolate. Spared only are the dainty accompanying savouries, tea and coffee. If you want coffee, the manager Juliano enquires, “How do you want your coffee - regular, irregular, two months, three months...” Wicked? Downright Naugh-Tea!
But utterly scandalous are the extravagances of the Parisian Salons de Thé. Hop on the Eurostar and you can compare the teatime scenes in Paris and London.
France has a cheese for each day of the year. Mariage Frère Salons de Thé has a different tea for each day of two years. Founded in 1854, Mariage Frère brings you the world in a teacup with largest and most exclusive collection of 640 “tailor-made” teas. Here, tea is a luxury product for those with the luxury of time... to embark on a voyage of discovery... through time and space... of the art of drinking tea à la française.... in a Colonial ambiance effusing old world hospitality.
Everything here is made with tea. Snob Salade is accompanied by Matcha green tea toast and Manga Shake with Matcha green tea ice cream. Succumb to Black Satin sumptuous, unctuous chocolate mousse complemented by Alexandra David-Néel ice cream or A Tea in Provence (layers of panacotta laced with Provence tea).
Chez Mariage Frère, the gastronomic, cultural and aesthetic superpose. For example, their Hunan yellow tea costs 37/person. Why? Because it’s rare. Besides, the tealeaves, served in a gorgeous transparent pot, execute “a ballet” during preparation, adding a visual treat to the gustative as does the unfolding bud of Fleur du Désir irradiating the pot with the colours of dawn. Certainly, the manager, M Jean-Christophe’s poetic explanations justify the price. He elaborates how tea has always been associated with literature and assures me that Proust drank Mariage Frère tea, which was served in Royal courts, aristocratic homes and luxury hotels...
old Parisian institution, suggest that Proust lived near the Fauchon Salon de thé on the Place de la Madeleine, so the famed Madeleine of Proust mentioned in his masterpiece A La Recherche du Temps Perdu was a Fauchon Madeleine. And why not, for Fauchon makes Paris’s best madeleines and éclairs. These traditional teatime delicacies are seasonally re-incarnated in extraordinary flavours chez Fauchon. Tourists generally go for classics, reserving the innovations for Parisians. But if you’re feeling adventurous, try something wild and whacky.
For the quintessentially Parisian experience of a Salon de Thé, there’s no place better than Laduré. Their Champs Elysée salon, with its 19th-century décor, effuses luxury and elegance. This is where the glamorous people of the chic 8ème arrondissement come for tea.
My love affair with Laduré began in my student days. For most Parisians, it commences in childhood when their grandparents treat them to the most lavish tea at Laduré, arguably Paris’s preferred Salon de Thé. But you don’t generally drink tea chez Ladure, for they are famed for the finest hot chocolate. I must declare a preference for their iced chocolate, though. Utterly divine. And goes wonderfully well with their superb seasonally changing religieuse, a sinfully cream-filled, irresistibly rich classic patisserie. But it’s paradoxically light, leaving room to try the legendary Laduré macarons.
Apparently Japanese tourists come to Paris especially to buy Laduré macarons and Louis Vuitton bags... Laduré macarons, at least, are worth the trip! I never liked macarons, until I tried Laduré macarons. They simply melt in your mouth. The winter flavours are fantastic. But try also classic favourites like chocolate, pistachio and rose. Or the desert isphahan: a rose macaron with raspberry and lychee compote. For something more original, I recommend the winter specialities. I found myself scraping the plate. In this chic salon. Quelle horreur! What to do, the desert was soooo delicious...
I must confess that I never liked millefeuille until I tried one chez Pierre Hermé, hailed as one of Paris’s best pastry chef. M. Hermé, who once worked for Laduré, now has his own boutique where he continues seasonally to dazzle with sensationally whimsical creations. Simply sublime. There are few things classic at Pierre Hermé, where one is pushing the boundaries of the traditional and expected. The millefeuille pastry, usually sweet and heavy, in PH’s hands is fine and “flimsy.” Astonishing!
And I must declare myself the greatest fan of M. Hermé’s Émotions. These are wildly innovative deserts served in a glass. Plunge into layers of exotica like pistachio crème brule, coriander-and-lemon-flavoured pineapple accompanied by coconut and perles de Japon in the Emotion Exotic or caramel mascarpone, daquoise coconut biscuit, mango and lyche compote in the Emotion Mahagony. The flavour of the season is limited edition Emotion Mont Blanc. If it’s worth coming to Paris just for Laduré macarons, it’s worth staying in Paris to try each one of M Hermé’s creations.
Don’t worry, you can get through them quite quickly. Indeed, PH’s pastries are so refined, that it’s quite easy to have 6 in a shot (trust me, I’ve done it...) without feeling sick. And you can enjoy them on the charming da Rosa terrace. As the French would say, “Pierre Hermé, il n’y a que ca...”
Of course, if you’re a hopeless shopohollic, you’ll find yourself in Avenue Montaigne. Interrupt or abandon your insane shopping spree to luxuriate at Le Plaza Athéné relishing their sumptuous tea service. Succumb to the charms of Paris’s sweetest seducer: Pastry Chef Christophe Michalak, who won the World Pastry Championship in 2005. Renowned for his pioneering re-inventions of French classics, the celebrated chef is all set to tantalise Paris with the taste of the exotic with his sultry new collection.
Salambo, ever the temptress, is re-incarnated as an irresistible façon pomme d’amour pastry oozing with chantilly, calvados, caramel and apple. Eating the forbidden fruit won’t damn you if you follow suit (or dare I say sweet) with Le Vacherin Paradisiaque: the divine combination of pineapple cooked a l’étouffé, meringue and exotic fruit sorbet will transport you to the high heavens of pleasure.
Hit rock bottom after a Rocher à la mode Plaza, meaning literally a “rock” of praline ice cream and caramelised coconut. No, you won’t be weighed down by fat, the pastries are so fine. So let the rarefied Finger Pamplemousse Allégé and Brownie à la pistahce lure you from temptation to temptation...
If you’re a hopeless chocoholic, then Jean Paul Hévin, one of Paris’s finest chocolatiers offers a seemingly endless selection of chocolate-based pastries. You ask what is good. You’re told, “Tout est bon.” Choices Choices... Hmm... Can’t decide? Try them all!
It’s so decadent, so naughty, so necessary...
Looking for the ultimate tea experience? Check out our travel writers' picks of the world's best places for afternoon tea.