Moonfleet Manor by Jamie Dunford Wood

Weymouth is a lovely, old-fashioned seaside town, but as in many others around the country, the suburbs are something of a disaster, a mish-mash of retirement bungalows, concrete community centres and forelorn Victorian churches begging us to be saved. So the drive east towards the village of Fleet is not encouraging...

The turn off, however, immediately takes you into a different world - a time warp, almost - of grazing ponies, overgrown cottages and hilly fields rolling down to the coast. The coast here is a famous one - Chesil Beach stretching for miles - and Moonfleet Manor is at the very end of the track, when you can go no further, right opposite (but not accessible to - more on this later) the beach. Formerly Fleet House, Moonfleet Manor was the home of the squires hereabouts, and despite the rather slapdash additions, retains something of the charm of this hidden away village. In particular there's a wonderful old church, bedecked with the memorials of this forgotten and largely lost seaside community.

The welcome here is very friendly. The reception staff speak native English - a bonus in UK country house hotels these days - and a cuddly dog laps at your feet looking for a walk. The reception rooms have retained their original proportions, and are decked out in shabby chic, with squishy sofas and old photographs, oddly, from the Raj. Even the appalling oil paintings cannot detract from the prep-school like charm. Two things then immediately become apparent - the squealing from the garden of rampant children, and the view across rolling gardens and fields to Chesil Beach. In between is a lagoon of water - so the only way to cross is by boat. And because of the size and height of the beach - effectively a huge bank of shingle - there is little in the way of clear seaviews. Still, its an impressive location, if a little odd.

For children, there is a trampoline on the lawn in summer, as well as an outside play area, high teas in a special kiddy room, a creche, and an indoor pool - though the latter could do with some renovation. There is also a large indoor play area with pool, table tennis, giant chess and special children's events, though in summer it seems a shame not to chuck them all out of doors. Again, the whole effect is rather school-like, with relative comfort for the parents (who can be tempted by massages and other delights) and adrenaline-fuelled excitement for the children. The hotel was bought by the Von Essen Collection in early 2006, which, the staff hopes, will bring on some much needed renovation.

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The verdict? You are unlikely to want to come without children of your own. There are more luxurious places to take them, but few that can offer such a good and effectively all-inclusive price. High teas are reasonably priced, and they are bound to make friends. The only drawback is lack of convenient beach access and, for some, the laid back and rather fading ambience. But if you are prepared to get in the car, the country hereabouts is wonderful. The rooms
The rooms at Moonfleet Manor are mostly in the main building - the old Manor House - and in common with the public spaces (with the exception of the modern restaurant extension, which lacks charm), their original proportions have been retained, so they are generally high ceilinged, light, and well suited to the smattering of antiques. Again, slightly faded in style, but comfortable without being luxurious, and the bathrooms have been done up.