Milia Traditional Settlement by Christopher Deliso

What began as an experiment over a decade ago is still marked by a refreshing sense of freedom and hearty doses of Greek country hospitality. One of the most unique accommodations in Crete, Milia, is located far from the tourist throngs, in the untouched mountains of the southwest. This small collection of restored traditional stone Cretan houses, connected by stone pathways in the shade of olive, chestnut and plane trees, and is complemented by an excellent little restaurant serving mouth-watering Cretan specialties, crafted from organic ingredients cultivated on the premises.

It’s hard to find a hotel that actually fears having too many guests, but then again there are not many like Milia, which has consistently turned down offers from tour operators out of a desire to preserve the privacy of this unblemished natural paradise. The co-founders of the settlement own 120 hectares of land all around the accommodations, ensuring that it will never be developed. The result? An unmatched atmosphere of tranquility perfect for natural lovers, artists, writers and everyone looking to really get away from it all without giving up the luxuries of a hot shower and well-cooked meal.

While critics of Milia refer to it as ‘that place without electricity,’ this is somewhat misleading. A sophisticated combination of solar and hydro-power keeps the lights on and the fires burning. Still it is a good idea to bring a flashlight as the outside pathways are not excessively well-lit at night. In winter temperatures can get quite cool.

The settlement’s major ‘facility,’ if you could call it that, is its incredible location tucked in the folds of two forested mountains. The low, inconspicuously-set stone houses and log-framed restaurant with open patio fit in harmoniously with the natural environment. There are also several small and discreet patches for vegetables and fruit, as well as an enclosed area for select livestock, but one does not get the feeling of being on a farm, or an ‘eco-park’ as some have claimed. Rather, what dominates is the untouched nature all around, the singing of crickets and birds and the sounds of dinner cooking from the kitchen.

While the staff is capable of administering first aid and keeps a medical kit in case of emergencies (so far there haven’t been any), it should be said that the settlement is an hour’s drive from the nearest hospital in Chania. Road access also depends on a snaking, narrow road which offers breathtaking views but which might make rent-a-car tourists jittery.

The settlement’s restaurant – simply called ‘Estiatorio Milia’ (‘Restaurant Milia’) – serves a wonderful variety of dishes prepared with gusto, utilizing fresh natural ingredients grown organically on the premises. Milia bottles its own pungent olive oil, and guests are invited to help, if they so choose, with the occasional harvesting. The restaurant notably has no fixed menu – it depends entirely on what’s in season – but guests can expect to be wowed on any given day by the chef’s concoctions. Rabbit baked with mizithra (a kind of sweet cheese), or lamb roasted in its own juices are both hard to pass up; Milia is also distinguished by unusual salads made with Crete-specific greens. The management is considering Cretan cooking classes for tourists too.

The rooms
A good bit of Milia’s charm owes to its rooms which, like the settlement in general, will appeal to a certain sort of visitor. The owners have sought authenticity above all else in rebuilding what previously was a long-abandoned village. The result is an austere yet striking simplicity, with whitewashed stone walls and bare stone floors, upon which rest traditional Cretan rugs, weathered old tables, and uncomplicated beds with pretty Cretan hand-sewn bedspreads. Bathrooms are similarly simple, with the shower (as many other places in Greece) not sealed off from the rest of the room. But if you’ve come all the way here that is not likely to matter much.

Some of the guest houses have remarkable walls of curving solid rock- fulfilling the same function as they did for the villagers of yesteryear. Rooms also contain rustic fireplaces for cool evenings.