Michelin Mysteries by Devanshi Mody
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A la Villa des Artistes
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Chefs may gain and lose Michelin stars, but Michelin continues to be the guide to good food. Michelin proceeds in mysterious ways, but surely criteria include consistency, creativity, refined cuisine, excellence of produce, balanced flavours, exquisite textures, elegant presentation, super service, extraordinary wine and cheese selections, good bread and better butter and a variety of salts? A tour of some of Paris’s finest restaurants may throw light on what makes for three Michelin stars, the highest accolade in the gastronomic hierarchy.
1. Le Doyen
Le Doyen has graced Les Champs Elysée since Louis XVI’s époque. This golden yellow restaurant, Paris’s prettiest, is enchantingly ensconced in lush, blooming gardens. Lavish 19th-century interiors with gilded mirrors and sumptuous upholstery exudes opulence and romance. Once frequented by Monet, Manet, Degas, Cezanne, Zola and Flaubert, this institution captivates irresistibly and remains one of Paris’s most enduringly popular restaurants.
Whilst innovation sometimes makes for Michelin stars, Le Doyen’s current three are due to Chef Christian Le Squer’s consistently excellent classic French cuisine perfecting flavours, fragrances and textures, rather than innovation for the sake of innovation, although the chef is experimenting with tandoori masalas, coconut and passion fruit. It also helps to have 6 different champagnes to choose from.
It also helps to have 6 different champagnes to choose from. Recommended is the superb Laurent Perrier " Cuvée Gd Siècle" but then you must have the William Deutz Rosé 1999 with desert. Their Clos Badon, Thuvenin 2001, Saint-Emilion wine is worth trying.
This is the restaurant where you discover tantalising textures. Start with exquisitely rarefied pastry accompanied by titbits including a spoonful of mozzarella that melts in your mouth. Then, the bewildering bread selection take the cake. What extraordinary flavours and textures! This MUST be the world’s best bread. Robuchon is famed for his potato puree, but Le Squer’s Pommes de terre "Ratte" au beurre de truffe is more complex and infinitely tastier.
Equally extraordinary is the spaghetti, Champignons, Truffe et crème de Parmesan. The finest ribbons of spaghetti are made into rectangular box enclosing the crispest morrel mushrooms of unbelievable texture. As for the Levure glacée and millefeuille chocolat- oh la la! The endearing service and magical ambiance explain the three Michelin stars and why Parisians of a finer palette adore to this restaurant.
2. Guy Savoy
For super slick service, head to Guy Savoy. Observing the sheer efficacy of the waiters is a treat in itself: Discerning yet discreet staff anticipate your every desire, materialise to ensure that you want for nothing, then melting away savour in privacy.
The dashing young sommelier, impeccably matches every course with wine from one of Paris’s finest wine lists. Extraordinarily, you also have a different bread matching every course. Fantastic! As`is Savoy’s motto, “Having fun is as important as eating well.” So commence with exclusive Champagne Guy Savoy- Blanc des Blancs Domaine Legras. Coteaux du Langvedoc 2003 is imperative with Savoy’s celebrated speciality Soupe d’artichaut à la truffe noire, brioche feuilletée aux champignons et truffles. The brioche is a revelation! When Marie Antoinette said, “If they can’t have bread let them have brioche,” she had no idea how utterly decadent brioche could be, as in the hands of a master craftsman like Guy Savoy.
Paris’s rarest cheeses are served with a wondrous compotes etc Drink Av Fromabe: Meursaut “Les Tressors” 2001 with cheese and reserve Champagne Billecart Salmon Rose Brut for desert. Indulge in the complimentary homemade ice creams, chocolate and dainty pastries.
Guy Savoy goes to the ends of the earth to procure the finest ingredients for his dishes. He does the same to bring back eclectic art displayed in intimate private enclaves of his minimalist restaurant which makes an experience there like dining in a private museum.
3. L’Arpège
If Guy Savoy makes an exhibition of his art, Alain Passard, the Bête Noire of Michelin starred chefs, makes an exhibition of himself. The mischievous chef and his quirky staff at L’Arpège ensure a Michelin starred experience not without shenanigans.
Be not duped by the deceptively informal ambiance. This is Paris’s most expensive restaurant. Because eccentric Passard is the most innovative of Parisian chefs and his new menu is whacky if not insane. Expect fennel ravioli, crazy carrots in chocolate sauce, avocado and pistachio soufflé, tomato infused with 12 flavours in orange sugar, and for desert, garlic crème brûlée or olive macarons.
The chef experiments with contradictory flavours and savours, constantly pushing the boundaries of the “acceptable” and never fails to surprise, or perhaps shock. L’Arpege is a unique experience.
4. Le Meurice
Le Meurice’s Yannick Alleno has three Michelin stars, two children and one wife- currently. He might acquire a harem, being the rage of Japan. They might even introduce a Golden Triangle tour of the Louvre, Louis Vuitton and Le Meurice for Japanese tourists.
The young chef recently received a third Michelin star for his complex, carefully constructed creations. Amidst a swirl of elegance, painted ceilings and ornate mirrors, feast on inspired, refined, exquisitely presented creations. Extraordinary attention to detail! The service is par excellence. The expert sommelier proffers unusual wines with each course.
Everything is gorgeous, starting with the extraordinary tapenade and interesting amuse-bouche. The ravioli vegetales is perfection incarnate. Only, there isn’t enough of it- but the divinely textured single ravioli stuffed with herbs and condiment is a mouthful of perfection. The chef’s original concoctions include Madras curry powder mixed with thyme-citron butter and almonds. Fricassée of Noirmoutier potatoes and dry apricots accompanied by girolles mushrooms in verveine marries sweet and savoury flavours.
Temptation is to OD on the various and wondrous breads and yummy butters, but leave room for the fantastic cheese collection and then... the deserts. The world’s most divine deserts are created by the youthful, 20-something-year-old chef pastry chef Camille, who is as delectable as his deserts and blushes profusely at the mildest compliment. It’s a treat to speak to the boy wonder, whose macarons served with coffee are sure to give Ladure sleepless nights...
5. Le V
Le V, the prestigious Parisian institution at the George V, is an exercise in grandeur. Overlooking the hotel’s charming terrace, the sumptuous restaurant brings the garden in with its verdant upholstery and luxurious flower arrangement. This restaurant has one of Paris’s finest wine lists and their pink champagne is irresistible.
Ensure you don’t get too drunk before you have savoured the chef’s creations. The artichoke tart with black truffle from Périgord is superb and this is where you have Paris’s most perfectly cooked Green asparagus served with Parmesan cheese, Tricastin truffles and stewed black olives. The texture of the Cauliflower risotto with morel mushrooms and garden peas is most unusual.
Their Maître fromager’s cheese collection is amongst Paris’s finest and the deserts to die for: Caribbean chocolate soufflé with ice cream of wild pepper from Madagascar or Gratin of wild and gariguettes strawberries, mascarpone sorbet. Lovely too are the petits four served with coffee. It’s a mystery why this restaurant has lost its third Michelin star, except that the service can perhaps be construed as somewhat rushed. Yet, Le V is superior to other two Michelin starred restaurants.
6. Le Bristol
Another two Michelin starred restaurant is Le Bristol, which, unlike its fellow Michelin starred restaurants has a surprisingly limited choice for vegetarians, given the growing popularity of vegetarianism (even amongst the frog and snail eating French), and the massive millionaire Indian contingent frequenting France these days.
The restaurant is airy and pretty, overlooking a terrace that looks like something at a beach resort and gives one the impression of being out of Paris. The restaurant’s forte are the fine breads, excellent cheeses and superb deserts.
If chefs die for Michelin Stars (and some have died at the shock of losing a star...), the growing trend now is to return to Michelin its stars. Most recently, Christian Constant returned to Michelin second star at Violon d’Ingres. Michelin stars subject chefs to immense pressures and render the restaurant expensive to maintain. Constant has returned a star but continues to make Paris’s best provencal cuisine and offer great wine and service.
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