Melaka for Shoppers by Cynthia Rosenfeld
As far back as the 15th century, the port of Melaka welcomed Malay, Chinese, Arab, Indian, Portuguese, Dutch and British traders, all of whom left their cultural mark on the modern Peninsular Malaysian city. These days, historic walking tours take in the former hilltop stronghold of 15th-century Chinese Imperial Admiral Cheng Ho, as well as the 17th-century Dutch Stadhuys, or town hall, and Christ Church, both painted cherry red by the British in 1911.
To experience Peranakan culture, the name for this melting pot community, visit the Baba-Nyonya Heritage House (48-50 Japan Tun Tan Cheng Lock), where mouths are sure to drop at the over-the-top ornate architectural details, clothing and accessories that once flourished here. Culture buffs may be content to stare, but travellers with shopping in their blood will soon covet the house’s contents.
Head around the corner to Jonker Street, also lined with some of Melaka’s oldest buildings. Souvenir stalls and fairy lights create a festive vibe from afternoon into the night. It’s known as “antique street,” but while Chinese porcelain, silk embroidery and old coins can be found inside dusty shop fronts, forgeries outnumber authentic finds. Stick to modern creations like the hand drawn witticisms emblazoned on soft 100% cotton tees at The Orangutan House (12 Jonker Street).
Art collectors from New York to Sydney collect Malaysian artist Charles Cham’s original paintings but his wearable, if controversial, printed tops call on society to “Play Safe, Use Malaysian Rubber” with cartoon-like condoms dancing on the chest. Across the street, itsy bitsy plaid shorts and retro leather wallets and handbags by Playhaus fill the airy space at Jonker Gallery (27 and 28 Jonker Street). Delve further into the shop’s interior for pre-washed tees festooned with tropical themes. Another outlet of the same name sits further along (66 Jonker Street), brimming over with handmade, cheap and cheerful souvenirs like butterfly and flower coin purses in vibrant hues, batik handbags and homey hand painted ceramic dishware.
Detour off the main drag to investigate the beaded baubles at Calanthe Art Café (11 Jalan Hang Kasturi). Seed beads fashioned into faux coral chokers dress up any frock, and the hand painted note cards make artful stationary. Don’t miss the old television by the door, revamped as a fish tank.
Bali inspires the vibe at Puri Padi (16 Jalan Hong Kasturi), with its thatched roof bale architecture and interiors filled with Indonesian home wares. Head to the back where coconut wood bangles worn in multiples will look decidedly chic, as do the bohemian batik skirts. Preserve these vacation memories in a thick teak frame then walk across the salvaged railroad tracks that now serve as the shop’s meandering path.
Back on Jonker Street, the name of one shop is a little sad, but Lonely Creature Collection (112 Jonker Street) bustles with anything but loneliness. Heavenly scented incense and aroma cones in exotic scents like butterfly pea, moke and ylang ylang bring warm karma to unfamiliar hotel rooms. Kids of all ages will want to brush their teeth with tiger and elephant shaped toothbrushes. Even more entertaining are the bathroom hooks designed as male or female stick figures, intended for users to hang their necessities off body parts.
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