Manchester's Northern Quarter by Helen Ochyra
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Great John Street
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Housed in the former warehouses of the 19th-century’s booming textile industry, the northern quarter is more up-and-come than up-and-coming.
I start my first day in the area at the riotously girly Bread and Butter cafe. The garden furniture, kitsch chandeliers and retro flower-patterned crockery lend the place an air of granny chic and, as I sip my lavender tea, people steadily stream in asking when the cupcakes will be ready. Once they’re done it’s not hard to see why they’re so popular, the white frosting topped with sprinkles is enchantingly pretty, not to mention delicious.
The rest of the morning is spent soaking up the accessible arts of the Richard Goodall galleries. The original gallery on Thomas Street is packed with quirky rock poster art at affordable prices; while its newer counterpart on High Street hosts regular exhibitions by contemporary artists.
I find more art for sale at the Craft and Design Centre. Home to numerous studios, everything from jewellery to furniture is available direct from the artist. There are gorgeous textile bags from Francesca Salvini, beautiful nature-inspired paintings from Lily Greenwood, and fine handmade jewellery from Studio 1. I leave laden with gifts for, well, I’m not quite sure who yet.
The northern quarter effortlessly fuses art with shopping. Bamber’s Art Space may technically be a shop but it’s also packed with examples of that most accessible of arts, interior design. Reminiscent of a junk shop, only with less trash and more treasure, it’s full of eclectic, retro household items.
Just along Oldham Street, Pop tells me (in blue neon, no less) to “come and worship”. Obeying its bold message I enter the brightly coloured boutique and try on fabulously funky dresses, tops and accessories. Shopping northern quarter-style is fresh and fun, and quite unlike anywhere else I’ve been.
I’m hooked, and continue to Rags to Bitches, a bonkers boutique which stocks vintage dresses of all eras, styles and shapes. Shopping here is like exploring a magpie’s nest; there are boxes of beads and baubles, shelves of creams and potions, and piles of oh-so-shiny jewellery.
Feeling shopped-out, I head for somewhere more soothing. The Manchester Buddhist Centre is a quiet, contemplative place where visitors can go to meditate. Housed in an old mill, the centre is wonderfully welcoming. A display of how they converted the dilapidated old building into this oasis of calm explains: “We are trying to create a caring community in the heart of a modern city”.
Another local business aiming to do just that is the Northern Quarter restaurant. Owner Jobe Ferguson has lived in the area for years, opening this eatery as “a neighbourhood restaurant” for the “individual set of people who live, work and play” in the northern quarter. There is passion in the air here; Jobe personally greets all diners, the provenance of every dish on the seasonal menu is explained by the friendly staff, and everything arrives proudly presented.
The food lives up to its introduction, the pork belly with glazed Eddisbury Farm apples is succulent and tasty, the Cheshire rib eye steak with fat chips and pepper sauce is cooked to melt-in-the-mouth perfection, and the chocolate torte is sweetly delicious.
Well sated I head to Socio Rehab for postprandial drinks. Over 50 cocktails are available here and I plump for the Spiced Fruitini, a luscious concoction of vodka, smashed strawberries and black pepper. With time for one last drink I cross the road to Odd, where the free-spirited, slightly crazy décor, and too-cool-for-school DJ spinning the vinyl, make it the ideal place to end my day.
The next morning a hearty breakfast is required so I head to Night n Day. Something of a northern quarter institution, locals tell me Keanu Reeves has drunk here and that the bar was mentioned on TV’s Lost. I devour a robust meaty fry-up while hip young things read the Sunday papers on comfortingly worn velvet seats.
Ready once again to explore, I head to the Chinese Arts Centre. Perhaps the northern quarter’s most unique destination, the centre hosts exhibitions by artists of Chinese descent and serves traditional teas in its teahouse.
Its calming atmosphere puts me in the mood for a trip to the Inner Sanctuary spa. This small, welcoming spa has a detox box, hydro pool and herbal steam room, as well as offering treatments ranging from acupuncture to reflexology. Owner Jennie Lawrenson tells me that it’s “so rewarding seeing the change in people”, and, after my uber-relaxing hot stone massage, there’s definitely a change in me.
With my computer-induced aches and pains soothed I leave feeling extremely relaxed. As I head back to Piccadilly station Jobe’s parting words float back to me: “The area has a great vibe”. I couldn’t agree more.
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